Looking at a SD


muddypunk

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Probably in the wrong spot but....
I'm going to look at this 99 F-250 SD 7.3 manual trans with 147k on it. Never owning a Diesel can anyone point stuff out I should look out for? I know to look at wear part hoses leaks wheel bearings and so on but I'm not sure on what other level I should check.

Thanks Aaron

Move if needed.

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85_Ranger4x4

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See when the front end was redone, they are pricey to rebuild around 100k.

7.3's like to leak, take that for what it is worth.
 

muddypunk

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Right on I'll check the front out. He's got all the service records dating back to 05 when he bought it. They might leak but they'll pull a house off it's foundation and sounds good doing it. No better Ford diesels out there for 10k.

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Right on I'll check the front out. He's got all the service records dating back to 05 when he bought it. They might leak but they'll pull a house off it's foundation and sounds good doing it. No better Ford diesels out there for 10k.

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Just throwing the leakage thing out there. It might freak some people out if they don't know what kind of a messy monster they are getting themselves into.
 

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Just throwing the leakage thing out there. It might freak some people out if they don't know what kind of a messy monster they are getting themselves into.
I understand I own a flock of Jeeps with 4.0's they don't leak they mark their territory lol. I've read I should look on top of the motor to see if the injector pump is leaking? The guy had the glow plugs swapped out last spring.

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You’re on the right track looking on top for leaks. I just replaced a couple o-rings on the back of the fuel bowl on my dads 2000 7.3

Just look in the valley between the heads for fuel. If you find some, use it to your advantage but it’s a fairly easy fix
 

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We have a fleet of superdutys at work. On a 99 I would look at the underside of the rocker panels and the 1st and 2nd bed crossmember. That's where they seem to start to rust first. (Of coarse the rear wheel wells to, buts that's usually obvious.) The body mounts start to degrade and fall apart. The rear doors on a supercab... the lower latches seize or the spring breaks and they won't latch properly.
The shifter tube in the column seizes or cracks and it won't shift fully into park or low gear. The OD switch wires rub on everything in the column and wear through. (Obviously not with a ZF, but that's for anyone else who may stumble across this in the future.)

The front axle (assuming it's a 4x4): The u joints like to seize up (both the axle shaft u joints and the front of the front driveshaft have been the most common). The rear mounts for the front springs go bad and cause a nice clunking noise over bumps. The track bar mount at the axle end likes to break. (Usually on the trucks with plows or regularly get overloaded.)

Engine: It's a 7.3... they leak from everywhere. Most common issues, the IPR goes bad or the cam sensor. They're good for injector harness issues, injector stiction, or leaking oil everywhere.

Trans: out of the 100+ F250/350s we have, only one has a manual. It's in a garage kept '97 F450 with 7,000 miles... no issues. (It's a spade truck, used to dig out trees and root balls for transplanting. Hence the low mileage.). I've found that it's not uncommon for the trans mount ears to rot right off the case.

Rear axle: check the shackles for rot. Check the springs for rust jacking. (The leaves will actually start to bend away from each other and snap.) The parking brake shoes will fall apart inside the drum or the retainer pins will pull through the backing plate. (It's disc service brake with small drum parking brakes.)
 

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We have a fleet of superdutys at work. On a 99 I would look at the underside of the rocker panels and the 1st and 2nd bed crossmember. That's where they seem to start to rust first. (Of coarse the rear wheel wells to, buts that's usually obvious.) The body mounts start to degrade and fall apart. The rear doors on a supercab... the lower latches seize or the spring breaks and they won't latch properly.

The shifter tube in the column seizes or cracks and it won't shift fully into park or low gear. The OD switch wires rub on everything in the column and wear through. (Obviously not with a ZF, but that's for anyone else who may stumble across this in the future.)



The front axle (assuming it's a 4x4): The u joints like to seize up (both the axle shaft u joints and the front of the front driveshaft have been the most common). The rear mounts for the front springs go bad and cause a nice clunking noise over bumps. The track bar mount at the axle end likes to break. (Usually on the trucks with plows or regularly get overloaded.)



Engine: It's a 7.3... they leak from everywhere. Most common issues, the IPR goes bad or the cam sensor. They're good for injector harness issues, injector stiction, or leaking oil everywhere.



Trans: out of the 100+ F250/350s we have, only one has a manual. It's in a garage kept '97 F450 with 7,000 miles... no issues. (It's a spade truck, used to dig out trees and root balls for transplanting. Hence the low mileage.). I've found that it's not uncommon for the trans mount ears to rot right off the case.



Rear axle: check the shackles for rot. Check the springs for rust jacking. (The leaves will actually start to bend away from each other and snap.) The parking brake shoes will fall apart inside the drum or the retainer pins will pull through the backing plate. (It's disc service brake with small drum parking brakes.)
Nice thanks!

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Probably in the wrong spot but....
I'm going to look at this 99 F-250 SD 7.3 manual trans with 147k on it. Never owning a Diesel can anyone point stuff out I should look out for? I know to look at wear part hoses leaks wheel bearings and so on but I'm not sure on what other level I should check.

Thanks Aaron

Move if needed.

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money pit :p


my 2002 7.3l is currently sitting on the engine stand with 228k i might fix it, still in debate

i bought it in 2013 with 116k
died in November 2018

in 5 years
Wheel bearings twice
trans at 158k (had john woods in cali rebuild it)
IPR,ICP, Gp relay
rebuilt front end/replaced steering box

2 tows(ipr and fuel gelling)

Injector cups twice, when i bought it at 116k and at 225k
oil cooler reseal
Turbo Pedestal upgrade, EBPV delete(leaking like a SOB)

New injectors at 225k

1st cold snap, hard starts and finally hydro locked itself at 228k on morning on cylinder 6, blew the glow plug center out of the glow plug.... and blow by in the cooling system...

:sad:

oh then there is the 4 gallons of oil every 3-5k miles because the 7.3l can shear 40w oil down to 30w by 3k miles because of the HPOP system...


this is my 1st diesel, if something breaks it cost $$$, and that is with me doing all the work, if you cant do your own work, look for something newer
 
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muddypunk

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Ok so the dude finally shit and got off the pot I'm going to test drive tomorrow I think he just didn't like my offer 10k cash.

This won't be my daily driver it'll be my tow rig and hay hauler. It might see 5-10k a year.

Thanks for the advice and if there turbo is junk and the valley is wet or if it suffers from excessive blow by I'll pass and wait for the Gen 3 to come along and pay 3x the amount for twice the miles.


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muddypunk

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What a Douche I got up there and watched the truck drive off......... He's going to receive lots of random magazines!!! I mean WTF.... Oh well back to the Dodge lineup.

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