Little Help with a 302 that is getting swapped in

[Robert_1967]

I have a 1975 302, I know, it's a low compression 130hp engine, but I'm tight on funds, and this was done in a trade, also the engine I thought had never been rebuilt, has been rebuilt, it's been bored .10 over.

any how my question is, how hard is it to change the rear main seal with out removing the crank???
I know I have to remove the rear main cap, but will the old and new seal slide around the crank to where it needs to be???

I really don't want to pull the crank as I can't afford new bearings, I only pulled the heads because the full gasket kit came with new head gaskets, and I have to spring for new head bolts, or rather studs and nuts.


also on the interweb, I have seen that the inside caps are to be tq to 70 to 80 pounds, and the outers to 35 to 40 pounds, does this sound right???

thank you


Robert


posted with a burnt piece of toast, and toe jam.

 

[Teddyzee]

Are the rear seals different on the older blocks?
On my'92 block, I replaced the seals without removing the crank.

I would have no problem removing the crank to inspect bearings, and reuse them if they looked fine.

 

[shane96ranger]

Are the rear seals different on the older blocks?
On my'92 block, I replaced the seals without removing the crank.

I would have no problem removing the crank to inspect bearings, and reuse them if they looked fine.

Yes, the older blocks have a 2 piece seal. I have read that you can convert to the one piece seal. IIRC, there are some cranks that the oil slinger needs to be ground down in order for it to work. IMO, this is the best option. I will see if I can find something on it.

EDIT: Well, this is most likely where I read it:

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/436532-302-1-piece-rear-main-seal.html

I have read in other places that the block may or may not need to be machined. Maybe not a good idea if so.....

 

[RangerSVT]

I know your on a tight budget, but personally, I would stop where your at, sell what you have, and head to pull a part and pick up mid 90's truck block, there's dozens of trucks there, so you will find a better, higher horsepower roller block for about 150. I've pulled several motors there, and depending on what day your available, I could meet you there and give you a hand pulling it...

SVT

 

[Robert_1967]

pulling a engine is no problem, my problem is that every engine that I have pulled from Pull-A-Parts in Knoxville have been bad, I do check them over, I check the oil for water, I check to see if I can turn it over by hand, and I even pull the plugs, and it seems that everyone I get home have some internal problem, like bad bearings, or something.

This engine I got in a trade with a 1975 Mustang, I drove the car, and it ran great, it didn't smoke when started, it didn't over heat, it just ran, and it moved the little car up I-81 at a pretty fast speed when I got on it, I know 13" tires are small, but the little engine, and c4 trans at 45mph and punched lit them up on the interstate.

also this was the cleanest engine I have ever seen on the inside, there was no sludge what so ever, also I took the oil pump apart, to see how bad worn it was, and it is almost new, so it was changed when it was rebuilt.

the only thing that I have seen wrong with this engine, was that the timing chain had the plastic gear, and was worn pretty bad, or course it's a single chain, not a double, but the cam itself is in great shape.


Robert



sent with a broken sony dvd player and ice cream.

 

[RangerSVT]

I was referring to pap in Nashville. They have a high turnover rate, so they vehicles in all the time, and about 60% are wrecks, so you know the motor was good. 130 hp in a 2700 lb car would scoot. But remember, the 4.0l in rangers are cranking out about 160, and that 75 model block is not a roller block, so your missing out on a lot of power there. If you were closer I have a decent roller block I'd throw your way. I just would rather see your $$ spent in the right direction...

SVT

 

[shane96ranger]

That 75 is really short changing you. It leaves a lot to be desired.

Sent from the can

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

As long as you keep track of what bearings came from where you don't "have" to change them if you drop the crank out. You know it ran good and had good oil pressure so there shouldn't really be anything to look at.

Nobody is going to give you much more than scrap for the '75 if they know what it is (about $50 if you wait for it to go back up this winter) so you might as well throw a $10 seal in it and run it. You are not going to get much of an engine from the proceeds if you sell it.

People made noise that my '87 non-ho 302 was going to be a dog... for being a roller it was only rated 20hp on your '75 and it has a fair amount of ring groove. It has been plenty spunky for me, I have no complaints. It isn't the fastest thing on the road by any means but is fast enough for me.

And because the '75's value is basically scrap it won't really go down any, so if you put it in and run it for a year or two until you happen across something better it is unlikely to depreciate.

 

[dangerranger83]

I say run it for now. Like said, what's to say you won't come across another that will bolt exactly into its place. Plus since your engine had had a rebuild (hopefully a good one) it should last you awhile.

Now that I know what engine you are running, that holley carb that I sold you will be alot for that engine.

If you are looking to get a better engine in the future, I would put as little into this one as possible and anything you do, make sure it can go onto another, such as intake, carb, oil pan, etc...to help save money and time later on.

I picked my engine up for $100 off a member on here and with the gas money included to go get it, $170, thanks to my old 2.8 only able to give me 10mpg. So there are deals out there and people willing to help but you have to try and find them both.

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[bobbywalter]

I know your on a tight budget, but personally, I would stop where your at, sell what you have, and head to pull a part and pick up mid 90's truck block, there's dozens of trucks there, so you will find a better, higher horsepower roller block for about 150. I've pulled several motors there, and depending on what day your available, I could meet you there and give you a hand pulling it...

SVT

i am totally with you and was surprised he was using it at all when inquiring about pans for it. but its a stout good running engine...fawk it, run it.

As long as you keep track of what bearings came from where you don't "have" to change them if you drop the crank out. You know it ran good and had good oil pressure so there shouldn't really be anything to look at.

Nobody is going to give you much more than scrap for the '75 if they know what it is (about $50 if you wait for it to go back up this winter) so you might as well throw a $10 seal in it and run it. You are not going to get much of an engine from the proceeds if you sell it.

People made noise that my '87 non-ho 302 was going to be a dog... for being a roller it was only rated 20hp on your '75 and it has a fair amount of ring groove. It has been plenty spunky for me, I have no complaints. It isn't the fastest thing on the road by any means but is fast enough for me.

And because the '75's value is basically scrap it won't really go down any, so if you put it in and run it for a year or two until you happen across something better it is unlikely to depreciate.

I say run it for now. Like said, what's to say you won't come across another that will bolt exactly into its place. Plus since your engine had had a rebuild (hopefully a good one) it should last you awhile.

Now that I know what engine you are running, that holley carb that I sold you will be alot for that engine.

If you are looking to get a better engine in the future, I would put as little into this one as possible and anything you do, make sure it can go onto another, such as intake, carb, oil pan, etc...to help save money and time later on.

I picked my engine up for $100 off a member on here and with the gas money included to go get it, $170, thanks to my old 2.8 only able to give me 10mpg. So there are deals out there and people willing to help but you have to try and find them both.

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i understand these points. with no direct comparatives its a blessing really.

because i can tell you with a high degree of confidence, if you drove my rig in its prime(and it was still a pos then) say with 33's (and it was nothing but yawns by todays standards)or one of the many others i see around here that are merely an honest 300 crank hp.....through 4 seasons and some decent wheeling.....


you would not be satisfied with those mills.

 

[Robert_1967]

I'm not building a race truck, or anything like that, I just wanted something better then the smoky 2.3 and that I can drive around as a DD, once I get this truck running and driving, I'm going to tear into my 89 BII, and build it.
Plus this is a two wheel drive truck, so huge tires, and hill climbing isn't in it's future, just drive ins, and a cruse in's, plus a the trip going through Gatlinburg, and the smoky mountains.

I guess what I should have done to have a v8 Ranger and have it only cost me a 1/3 of whats it's going to cost and alot less hassle, is use a Cheby engine.

nah, no cheby's in a Ford for me, if I was building a s10 then a cheby 350 would work, but it's a Ford, and needs a Ford engine.





That's not to say if I had the cash, and good 440 six pack, 4 speed would be sitting in between the rails, but that's just dreaming talk.


Danger, in the other post your typing about owning a house, I just had to drop 2500.00 into having all my plumbing replaced, it was the old "rot" iron water pipes, now it's all cpvc, this is just another reason I'm on a really tight budget, soon I'm going to have to drop a several grand into a new roof.



Robert




posted with a rooted 88 Ranger fender, and the black plastic grill.

 

[dangerranger83]

I understand being on a budget, on one everyday off my life. The only thing that I paid for on my truck that I probably could have built but didn't because of lack of knowledge on how to do it and for safety were my longarms that costed me $650.

Plus I'm saving up for another vehicle, saving for winter time due to my work has a tendency to be off for almost a month, budgeting what I can do to my truck, etc... so I understand where you are coming from when it comes to finding parts for your swap for next to nothing. Could I have sold the carb for more that I sold it to you, yes, but I made just enough off of it to pay for the shipping, gas to it to the ups store and had enough left over to buy me lunch at work that day. All in all I just wanted the damn thing gone Trs and it's people have been good to me and I can't see it not being any different to anybody else.

If you have seen the engine run and it was solid then run it. But also if you are going to have the heads off of it, I would see about getting a different set to help with the engines lack of power...but a set that may be able to go on another engine if you so decided to later on that will help it.

My goal is to find another engine and rebuild it from scratch, I have always wanted to do that. New forged crank, rods, pistons, etc... something pushing 300hp+ but that could be 10 years from now.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

If you have seen the engine run and it was solid then run it. But also if you are going to have the heads off of it, I would see about getting a different set to help with the engines lack of power...but a set that may be able to go on another engine if you so decided to later on that will help it.

IIRC the best thing for power is the heads that are on it. I think they still ran the decent small chamber heads from the 60's until about '77. They lowered compression by increasing the deck height.

I would just do the needed things to keep oil in it and run it. Any money spent on "improvements" would be better spent on a different engine.

 

[dangerranger83]

Then I guess a shot of nitrous would solve the lack of power issue

I will say even a 302 with only 120hp is better then a N/A 2.3 any day in my book. When my truck had a FI 2.3 it, output was great on mileage but then the emissions things started acting up and some other things that made it go from 21mpg to 12mpg and in all that time, it couldn't get out of its own way with only 90hp.

I do miss the soft lifter tick that my 2.8 had but that about it for that engine.

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[Robert_1967]

Oh, don't get me wrong, I love TRS, and it plus it's members have been a huge help, after all it's because of this site that I have my 89BII, I'm going to run the 75 302, it should be making a little more then 130hp (rated from ford and mustangII.com) since it's been bored 10 over.

also a BIG thank you for the price on the carb, BUT I no longer own it, the friend that I took it to for a rebuild and check over bought it off me, and is using it on a built mustang, I told him about what you said about it would idle too high till you turned it off, he found the problem, and fixed it, was a little funny looking thing deep inside it, but no problems, he loves it, says it kicks like a mule now.

The ONLY thing that I hated about this engine when I got the 75 Mustang II, was that it was covered in oil, in my old age I can't stand a truck that marks it place, so that is why I got a full gasket kit for the engine, and asked about the rear main seal, I want to change it.

also on a side note, my friend took my heads to put my new valve seats in, and there was nothing wrong with the old ones, plus the heads where pretty clean when I removed them, BUT he is going to deck them just a little and open them up some, also he is going to gasket match the heads on the intake runners, and exhaust runners, plus open up my exhaust manifold to help get the air out.<---all of this is being done for free because I help him a lot on his 48 cheby truck and 73 V8 VW.



Robert



sent with a box and rooted quarter.