Ok so here's where I'm at.
Option 1 (Remove Lift Blocks In Rear)
- Skyjacker 4" Lift with Black Max Shocks: $1,628.03
- 32" BFG KO2 Tires: $1,080 (30's more affordable but concerned they will look too small)
- Stock looking wheels from LMC (15x8): $679.80
Concerns: truck can't handle this setup (2.9L V6, FM146, Dana 35, 7.5 LSD and I believe 3.73 gearing (also price)
Option 2 (Remove Lift Blocks )
- Duff Stage 1 3" Lift: $1,074.30
- Rough Country 3" Leafs: $459.95 (or maybe some stock leaves from NAPA)
- 31" Falken A/T3W: $660
- Some cheaper black aftermarket wheels
- Maybe Bilstein shocks (not sure)
Concerns: not sure which shocks to run with this setup
Option 3 (Leave Lift Block)
- Skyjacker 4" Lift: $1,200.39
- Stock 3+1 leaves from NAPA: $441.98 (possibly cheaper as I have technical education student discount)
- Probably same tires and wheels as Option 1
- Maybe just buy Skyjacker 4" coils and different shocks
Concerns: still same concerns as option 1 and possible nose up stance as I think the blocks are about 3.5" also not sure on ride feel
Option 4 (Similar to Option 2)
- 3" Duff Coils: $199.95
- Stock leaf springs
- Probably same tires and wheels as Option 2
Concerns: slight rake will remain and not sure on feel as I will have upgraded shocks and springs but factory leafs
Overall I am mostly concerned with look and performance. I have 2.9, FM146, Dana 35 and 7.5 LSD with I believe 3.73 gearing. Not too much concerned on price, but if I can get good feel and lift for cheap by all means I will choose that instead. Am open to other options or modifications to above options. Option 1 is ideal just don't know if its too much for my truck's capabilities.
Ok, so… couple thoughts here…
Option 1 is kind of the ideal, and it really kinda sounds to me what you really want. I’d think hard about heading in that direction. You can make some modifications to the plan to reduce cost now that are resolvable later, like you could run 31x10.5 tires on stock rims. You should be able to fit 32-33” tires later. 31” tires may look a little small on a 4” lift, but not bad. The drivetrain you currently have will tolerate 31” tires. Changing rims and tires later is not a problem at all, but a full mechanic shop will make doing major work a lot easier.
If you can weld or get welding done, it is possible to build a set of extended Radius arms. Quite possibly cheaper than you can buy them. I’ve done it twice now. I’m probably going to do it to a couple other trucks I have. The first set was on my Choptop, I bought a joint and a tube insert for it for each side and some steel. The joint came from Ballistic Fab, one of their Ballistic joints. I built the frame mount, rigged up a transmission crossmember, cut the stock arm to where I could fit some 2x2x0.250” tube in, got it lined up and welded it all together. Added some plate to the back side of the stock arms and it’s been like that for I dunno how many years now. I just got a set welded in place on my 88 Bronco II, I bought an extra piece for that, a sort of frame mount end. I still had to weld it to a plate to bolt it to the frame the way I wanted, but it slightly simplified things for me building it. Definitely do the extended arms one way or another though.
You will need a drop pitman arm.
For the rear if I wasn’t getting actual lift springs I would probably add an extra leaf to a 1750# set of leaf springs and get extended shackles. Or move the frame mounts. I don’t like lift blocks. They give a lever for the axle to bend the springs (axle wrap).
I’d hit up junkyards and see if I could find a 90-97 Ranger or 91-94 Explorer with 4.10 gears. The Ranger you will have to make sure it has a true D-35 (all 4.0 trucks will have that and an 8.8”). Door sticker will tell you the ratio of a stock truck, there’s a chart in the tech archives here on that. Take the rear axle complete, if the driveshaft has the same U-joint size as your driveshaft and the yard will let you, take the yoke so you know you have the correct one, the front you really only need the center chunk, but I’d at least take the axle shafts too for spares. It’s a pretty painless swap really, especially when doing a lift, you’re already halfway there.
I have never bought a lift shock. I just figure out my compressed and extended length plus what ends and look through the charts of what is available through my local parts store and there we are.
Doing engine/transmission swaps is way easier with a lifted truck. Especially without a shop. I usually end up putting a stock truck up on ramps in the front to do an engine swap since I don’t have a shop yet. My Choptop I have tons of room under it to work.
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