Well I'm almost there. I have pictures if anyone is interested. What I ended up doing was installing the front springs and leveling the I beams to determine the amount of lift from the factory I beam pivot hole. In this case it was 4". I then welded some channel steel to the factory I beam brackets to make drop brackets, and the early ones like this have an additional brace that's at an angle off the engine crossmember so I made new ones rather than extend the originals. I also made 4" blocks to go between the radius arm brackets and the frame to drop the radius arms the same as the I beams, plus an extension out of 1/4" steel for the side of the frame to radius arm bracket.
The front springs are 4x4 springs and I realized way too late that on the 4x4 early trucks that the spring is mounted upside down. This means the top of a 2x4 spring is the same dimension of the bottom of a 4x4 spring. If you're beginning to get confused, so was I. They're the same on one end but not the other.
Oh well, I cut down some 4x4 lower retainer perches, bolted them to the I beams, made aluminum spring bushings to control lateral movement, and welded some additional material to the factory washer to control vertical movement. Now I'm ready to set the toe and double check the alignment... after I weld in some additional radius arm bracing since you can't drop the crossmember on the early models.
I believe I solved the tie rod angle problem by bending the tie rods in my press to clear the radius arms. The steering wheel is no longer straight but it may be able to be reclocked or I'll make either a clockable steering shaft or drag link. Nobody offers a drop pitman arm for these.
Easy right?