Leaky transmission pan & gear band nuts

[Beetlejuice]

Hey all, seeking advise as I feel like I'm bumping up against my own personal DIY capabilities on this. Here's the breakdown and sequence of events.

New to me Ranger was a bit damp around the Transpan, so I..

1 - Dropped the pan (discovered a cheap gasket and also use of gasket-maker material) and I did my best at the time to clean up the trans side mating surface. I installed a new OEM metal gasket and re-installed old pan and found that I still had some seepage around the front passenger side corner lip of the pan.

2 - I purchased a brand new OEM Transmission pan to replace the one. I tested on glass table and there was very very very small amount of rock - the slightest weight I put down made it flat on the glass. I also bought a different style gasket this time - Lubelocker (I used one of these on the rear diff and its great). This time I cleaned the Trans side mating surface VERY well as I noticed there was still some gasket-maker residue (I used super-fine sandpaper lightly all around until super smooth to sight and touch all around (see pic)

I put the new OEM Transpan + Lubelocker on. Didn't work, this time I had some small amount of seepage but now on the driver side near the front corner of the pan.

3 - I purchased yet another transmission pan, this time an ATP pan with a drain bolt pre installed. I also purchased a NEW OEM gasket to replace the first new OEM gasket I bought. I dropped the pan again, cleaned things up, and re-installed ATP pan + new OEM gasket. Still leaking.

4 - Here is where I am at now. Dropped the pan again, cleaned the surfaces, but this time installed ATP pan + Lubelocker gasket. I have not rechecked but I am not betting on seeing a dry Transpan at this time.

What do you think I can do now? Rubber gasket? Cork? Some mix of gasket + gasket-maker?

I am torquing at 95 inch lbs (6 over spec, my book says 89 inch lbs). Should I go up to 120 inch lbs? I've seen so many varying torque specs for Transpan bolts.



Less severe im also noticing some slight slight seep on the gear band nuts on drivers side. I can live with this for now, but wondering if this is common or what I might be able to do to stop it completely.


thanks!




Thoughts?

 

[RonD]

The transmission vent is clogged

As the trans warms up the fluid expands, just like coolant does, so that pressure needs to be vented, unlike coolant does, lol
There is a vent at top rear of trans that has a rubber hose that connects to a steel tube and goes to the front and loops up and down above bell housing

Vent seen here just above OSS sensor: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/data/attachments/299/299410-21a96927f77fb8ddac7565b0c323e54b.jpg

The metal tube looks like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GqEAAOSw0wBfRp6v/s-l225.jpg

Rubber part attaches to vent fitting, then other end of tube comes down just in front of shifter on drivers side of trans

Seen here if you look carefully: https://www.explorertalk.com/attachments/projectthread038-jpg.5473/

You should be able to blow thru the metal tube when engine is off, its just an open tube into transmission case

If vent is clogged then pressure MUST FIND another way out, which is gaskets and bolts

 

[wildbill23c]

I don't think you are supposed to use any gasket maker or anything else other than the gasket that comes with the pan kit. I just installed an ATP gasket/pan kit on my 88 Bronco 2, no leaks at all, very little cleaning had to be done, just wiped off the oil that splattered on the transmission pan mounting surface, installed the gasket on the pan and put the bolts back in...didn't torque them, but they're tight....tighter than several were when I pulled the old pan off...some were barely tight when I started removing them to take the pan off to change the filter and fluid.

I'm wondering if you have some sort of warpage of the transmission casing going on? When I pulled the pan off my Bronco 2, it didn't have any sort of pressure spreading type washers on it like the valve covers do, but maybe something like that may help cure your leaks? Are you sure the bolts where you are seeing the leaks are tight? May have to tighten them down, drive the vehicle a while, get it warmed up and then tighten them again? Not sure how much sense that would make but worth a try I guess to keep it from leaking LOL.

 

[19Walt93]

We ran into that on a couple of Rangers, the original pan had a flat gasket surface and the replacement had depressions in it that prevented the gasket from sealing. We used a cork gasket, much as we hated to. If the band adjuster nuts have a seal built into them like a C4/5/6 you can replace them to fix the leak but be sure to recheck the band adjustment when you do- and use your inch pound torque wrench.

 

[Beetlejuice]

The transmission vent is clogged

As the trans warms up the fluid expands, just like coolant does, so that pressure needs to be vented, unlike coolant does, lol
There is a vent at top rear of trans that has a rubber hose that connects to a steel tube and goes to the front and loops up and down above bell housing

Vent seen here just above OSS sensor: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/data/attachments/299/299410-21a96927f77fb8ddac7565b0c323e54b.jpg

The metal tube looks like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GqEAAOSw0wBfRp6v/s-l225.jpg

Rubber part attaches to vent fitting, then other end of tube comes down just in front of shifter on drivers side of trans

Seen here if you look carefully: https://www.explorertalk.com/attachments/projectthread038-jpg.5473/

You should be able to blow thru the metal tube when engine is off, its just an open tube into transmission case

If vent is clogged then pressure MUST FIND another way out, which is gaskets and bolts

thanks for the insight. If indeed clogged, do you Think I might be able to unclog by hooking up a fluid pump to the vent-side? Dislodge potential blockage?

Is this a common issue? Any more traditional or reliable solutions?

 

[Beetlejuice]

We ran into that on a couple of Rangers, the original pan had a flat gasket surface and the replacement had depressions in it that prevented the gasket from sealing. We used a cork gasket, much as we hated to. If the band adjuster nuts have a seal built into them like a C4/5/6 you can replace them to fix the leak but be sure to recheck the band adjustment when you do- and use your inch pound torque wrench.

yes I noticed that the original pan that came with the ranger had a flat surface. the new OEM replacement pan AND the new ATP pan has this depression.

 

[Beetlejuice]

Seen here if you look carefully: https://www.explorertalk.com/attachments/projectthread038-jpg.5473/

You should be able to blow thru the metal tube when engine is off, its just an open tube into transmission case

If vent is clogged then pressure MUST FIND another way out, which is gaskets and bolts

to confirm, this is the vent? should be able to blow air into this without issue?

 

[19Walt93]

Nope, the vent's on top of the case, usually near the rear where the extension housing bolts on.

 

[Beetlejuice]

right the vent is on top, but the part of the metal tube to blow into is located where I circled right? or in that vicinity?

find the metal tube opening on the ~front driver side of the trans, red circle and test for clogs by pushing air into tube?

 

[RonD]

Yes, should be open all the way, so you can blow thru it while its still connected at transmission end

Transmission is sealed except for this vent so won't be able to blow continuously, just enough to know its open
Dip stick tube can also act as a vent, if you pull it out you may be able to blow thru but may also blow ATF up the dipstick tube depending on where the tube ends, above or below fluid level in pan
If pan was off you could blow continuously

 

[Beetlejuice]

OK so a couple updates here... maybe warped trans side surface?

my latest attempt is with the ATP pan and the LubeLocker gasket and still encountering leak. The leak seems to be coming from the front and front driver side corner of the pan.. but who knows maybe its just pooling up in this area from somewhere else?

I cant identify any active leak or seepage when the truck is running, and even after sitting for a couple hours no drip... but overnight sure enough there trans oil on the cardboard I kept right under the pan (dripping down from front drivers side corner).

I'm going to give this up to another 2 attempts. I'm going back to the original trans pan with flat mating surface (vs. dimpled ATP replacement) and I'm going to try a Cork gasket. If no luck there, I will try a rubber gasket.

beyond that... I really don't know.. maybe I just have to Hail Mary some gasket maker.

@RonD - not crossing potential vent blockage off list....but I cannot seem locate this vent tube that should come down just in front of shifter on drivers side of trans. ive checked your notes and rechecked and even took some pictures..

 

[wildbill23c]

The passenger front corner of my ATP pan was leaking, turned out the bolts weren't tightened all the way...FYI, check, and double check all the bolts, I had to go find a different socket as the one I was using the first time wasn't seating on the bolt head completely so it felt like I was getting them tight but it was the socket binding against the side of the pan due to it being a deep walled socket. I switched to a thinner walled socket and found several of the bolts weren't tight.

I no longer have any leaks, and I am using the ATP pan with a 3rd hand gasket on mine which seems to be a metal impregnated cork gasket which I think was the same type that was on it from the factory. No leaks prior to swapping pans, and now after actually tightening the bolts it don't leak now either. I didn't torque them. You really don't want to be tightening those bolts down gorilla tight as you are going into an aluminum transmission housing and could very easily strip the threads out of the transmission case.

 

[Beetlejuice]

thanks for the tips... Ill be sure to check if socket is touching anything other than bolt head. I will note, ive been careful to use my inch-lb torque wrench between 90 and 110 inch lbs only, in criss cross pattern. I don't believe 110 inch lbs would be considered gorilla, ive read many examples of folks going up to 120 without issue.

In terms of next steps, I ordered a couple different gaskets online.

The first is Fel-pro, which has already been delivered and feels more like a leather or heavy felt/cloth material than it does rubber or cork. I'm already feeling optimistic as its maybe 2x thicker than the OEM metal/rubber infused gasket from ford. It's also a lot thicker than the LubeLocker gasket which has a thin layer of metal and some foam/rubber type infusion going on around the outside.

The second is MAHLE, which is a cork/metal carrier mix which should be arriving before the weekend.

If at the end of the day I am looking at some warpage on trans side surface im hoping the thicker gasket makes up for it. I have no problem changing these damn things at some frequency rather than deal with seepage.

 

[DILLARD000]

A solution to limited space around the FlangeBolts on EngineOil\TrannyATF Pans
is to pick up the same Diameter+Thread size bolts, but slightly longer from the hardware store,
plus either FlangeNuts (prefered) or RegularNuts+FlatWashers.
Run a new Nut all the way up each new longer Bolt & jam against the HexHead.
Now you've got a new set of FlangeBolts for that pan, with DoubleLong HexHeads that a Wrench\Socket will easily seat to.

 

[Beetlejuice]

DILLARD000 thank you for sharing, much appreciated...

Welp here is the latest update...

I went with the Fel-pro + Stock Pan (with flat mating surface) and I still have a leak, which appears to be primarily on the front end of the pan and mostly on the driver side corner itself.

At this point I have to believe that there is some defect in the actual trans mating surface. I thought for sure the Fel-pro gasket would do the trick because it was much thicker than the OEM and Lubelocker gaskets.

I'm trying not to get too discouraged here... there MUST be a solution that doesn't include a whole new trans. When I took delivery of the truck it certainly wasn't this bad. When I took the pan of for the first time someone had used both a gasket and gasket maker. I think I have to go this same route. Gasket + Liquid Gasket maker combo...

I just don't remember if there was gasket maker on both the pan-side and trans-side. There certainly was gasket maker on the trans side, I spent a good deal of time cleaning that all up with a plastic scraper and very-fine sand paper..


What do you all think? I know its not the optimal solution, but maybe Im sort of shit out of luck here.