Leaf spring opinions wanted, general nonsense welcome.

[Blmpkn]

got 1250s on my truck currently. 132k later and they're almost flat with my flatbed that weighs 200lb more than the stocker.

With my wheeler in the back (700ish lbs), it's freighted to the point where the front end comes up probably 2".

I plan on hauling the wheeler quite a bit, and it's obvious the springs need replaced. Considering the 700ish lb payload, would a fresh set of 1250s do me any good or do I really need to go to the 1750s to have a truck that doesn't look like its massively overloaded?

Perhaps helper/overload springs?


Thanks gang.

 

[sgtsandman]

It depends. If you want less squat, 1750’s will definitely do it at the expense of ride quality.

Helper springs would help reduce the squat and retain your current ride quality if you get the ones that only engage if you are carrying a load.

It just depends on how important the ride is to you.

 

[Ramcharger90]

They sell those goofy shocks with coil springs on them...

 

[sheep herder]

Springs go boing!

 

[Blmpkn]

It depends. If you want less squat, 1750’s will definitely do it at the expense of ride quality.

Helper springs would help reduce the squat and retain your current ride quality if you get the ones that only engage if you are carrying a load.

It just depends on how important the ride is to you.

I think I know the answer already, but.. Are helper/overloads an actual replacement for a heavier pack or are they really just a "bandaid" of sorts?

I do like how it rides unloaded, but the amount of "truck stuff" it has to do is going to increase by a substantial amount, so a compromise must be made.

They sell those goofy shocks with coil springs on them...

I'd probably have some wierd ocd type discomfort with different shocks front and rear I think lol.

Springs go boing!

 

[adsm08]

Leaf springs should not be round and curly.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I ended up building my own leaf packs, used two sets of Ranger packs. Cut the ends off a main leaf and put it under the main I was going to use and built a 5 leaf pack, using the longest leafs possible, then put an overload leaf on the bottom (the thick bottom one that the leafs should not be resting flat on). Longer leafs give a softer ride while still building carrying capacity.

Granted it still rode like a truck, but not like I had the axle welded to the frame when I was empty.

Did the same sort of thing with Explorer leafs for my choptop but that proved to be a tad stiff with it missing the rear glass and top. Still, I’ve run it.

I built packs for my F-150 like that out of springs from a couple F-250s, think they were 5 or 6 leafs plus an overload. It’s a little stiff of a ride but entirely tolerable. Best part is, with a ton in the bed it sits like an empty stock F-150. Empty it sits like a 250 or like I did a small lift. Front coils I did 1 ton rated and the coil over helper shocks since I was going to use it to plow with.

The helper springs that mount above your leaf packs are to help when you carry occasional heavy loads and still want a softer ride the rest of the time.

 

[racsan]

helper coils between axle housing and frame, 2,500# rating, works well for me. Its really most of my rear suspension since mine is the single-leaf fiberglass spring.

 

[sheep herder]

 

[ericbphoto]

Or, you could get fresh 1250's and add air springs as helpers. That way you can adjust the load assist based on air pressure to handle whatever you are or are not carrying.

 

[sgtsandman]

I think I know the answer already, but.. Are helper/overloads an actual replacement for a heavier pack or are they really just a "bandaid" of sorts?

I do like how it rides unloaded, but the amount of "truck stuff" it has to do is going to increase by a substantial amount, so a compromise must be made.

There are different types. Ones that are engaged all the time and those that only engage after the suspension squats to a certain point.

The first ones are more of a band aid than the latter since its working as soon as the truck is sitting on the ground.. The latter only come into action when you are carrying a load, so perform only when needed. I think I've seen both types being available for the Ranger. I chose the first option because it was cheap and easily available. They worked and the ride was about the same as the 1750# springs I have now but required more maintenance because of how they worked (they needed lubed at the contact points to prevent creaking and groaning).

 

[racsan]

on my 93 4x4 the helper coils didn’t contact the frame with truck unloaded, so it still rode nice, my current truck is a 2wd so the frame is always in contact with the helper coils but its only about a inch of compression so its not too much of a difference in how it rides. I have the same setup on my ranger trailer and had 3000# of dirt in it last spring without issue. Back with my first ranger (a 2wd ‘88 supercab) I had shocks with coil helpers on them and had them as tight as I could get them (to increase ride height). It rode like a empty 3/4 ton truck.

 

[sgtsandman]

I think Timbren makes something similar to what rascan is talking about. They replace the bump stops.

 

[racsan]

Timbrens are a good choice to go with.

 

[Grumpaw]

Or, you could get fresh 1250's and add air springs as helpers. That way you can adjust the load assist based on air pressure to handle whatever you are or are not carrying.

View attachment 46176

You bring up a good alternative...
Have set of Firestone Air Bags on our motor home...really not a valid comparison with a Ranger, but they do work. When loaded in the rear, I run about 70 psi which brings rear up and gives a comfortable ride without ever bottoming out , but more important, I can adjust the psi to suit our load requirements.
Firestone does make a dedicated set for the Rangers, 2010. This allowes you to run them with about 10 psi for an empty load, or up to 100 psi for a heavy load. (never run them totally empty.
Check ETrailer for info.