kunar's turbo 1st gen

[bobbywalter]

Cobra r 351 headers clear pretty good with the aerostar shaft.



For the costs today and the age of wiring and conditions of pcms...I would not adapt the car intake.... I would run a good dual plane.....or single with good lungs with an do FI tech and D.U.I. dizzy.

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[svtcards]

Who's question r u answering?mine or Kunar?he hasn't responded to post since Jan 17th

 

[svtcards]

On this thread anyway

 

[kunar]

Did u install the tri y headers b4 or after engine was already in place?and did u have to drop trans and bell housing for headers to clear if engine was already installed?I just mine today and I can't maneuver the passenger side header enough to to clear bell housing with engine installed in truck.is that what issue u had with yours?

The driver's side will go in and out as it sits. The passenger's side wont go in or out without the engine lifted a few inches from where it sits. I've had the engine in and out half a dozen times making adjustments, clearancing things, etc.

 

[svtcards]

That's what it looks like.just wanted to verify b4 I dropped trans and bell housing for nothing.since the 302 is a tad narrower then your 351 I'm hoping I don't have to trim frame much or at all.thanx again for the quick response

 

[kunar]

That's where the modified aerostar steering shaft and cobra r headers are nice to have.


They best way I have found for the drivers side is to drill a hole in the frame just at or past the trans/block face centerline centered up with the locater hole just behind the k member.

Zip cut to the hole centers from the side and work the rail down with two 15 in crescent wrenches to 90 degrees or so.

Strongest way I have used to do it without welding.

Short of that no 90 degree cuts keeps the cracks at bay longest.

Looks like your in good shape based on the pictures. Body lift and lower mounts still don't clear the truck intake...and ya add an inch or so for the spacer...

As long as it is a stock truck 351...the car intake does not knock it down too bad. It does affect the torque down low.

I do like the idea of bending the piece of frame flange out of the way instead of cutting it free, but what's done is done. I think i'll make a patch that bolts in place to go on that side though. I was looking at it the other day and it shouldnt take much to make a reinforcement for that area. As for the intake and stuff, I ended up buying the BC Bronco's piece. I already own the mustang upper intake (gift from a friend) and i have all of the wiring harness and ecm from the donor truck. I should be able to put it all together with mimimal investment at this point. I've thought about a Holley Sniper, but that's a thousand dollars pretty easily and I just don't see it being worth the money for a bone stock, worn out 351. Oh, and i thought it was the aerostar that's got the nice steering shaft. I'll have to pick through the local yards when i get a chance, hopefully i come up with something. I need more clearance at the upper rag joint worse than i do at the bottom.

 

[svtcards]

Also if u haven't noticed on those headers that the flanges and collectors I don't think there stainless.if there are there not 304 stainless like stated in description on ebay.i think it may be steel coated or 409 stainless.i contacted seller to see what he says about it.fyi if it matters to u at all.

 

[kunar]

That's what it looks like.just wanted to verify b4 I dropped trans and bell housing for nothing.since the 302 is a tad narrower then your 351 I'm hoping I don't have to trim frame much or at all.thanx again for the quick response

Also if u haven't noticed on those headers that the flanges and collectors I don't think there stainless.if there are there not 304 stainless like stated in description on ebay.i think it may be steel coated or 409 stainless.i contacted seller to see what he says about it.fyi if it matters to u at all.

I think i remember hearing that these headers will fit a 302 without any frame trimming, but i can't say for sure. I'll have to take a peek at my flanges and stuff, see what they look like. The headers themselves seem nice, I guess i'm not too worried about the flanges that came with em. Still a really good value IMO.

 

[kunar]

I don't have a lot of progress to add, but since I'm here i guess I'll put up a few pics. I ended up buying the BC Bronco's intake adapter. Turns out it's a cast piece, the pics on their website are tiny but i kinda had figured it would have been a billet/machined part. It's kinda ugly, but should still be just fine, and mostly hidden by the time its all bolted up. It comes with hardware and gaskets, so that's an added plus. It *just barely* clears the fuel rail and regulator. I might use a phenolic spacer to gain just a little more room there. I also cut out the damaged section on my heater box and made room for it to come in and out with the engine in place. I still need to make a patch to cover up the big hole. It was melted from the turbo, so i figured I'll chop this one up and try it this way. If it doesn't work, i have another i can probably just heat and form to make some clearance instead of cutting it up. The factory alternator bracket has a tensioner right on it, and i got the alternator with this engine, I thought it would be nice if i could make it work, but it's just too big and bulky. I think i should be able to use the 2.3 alternator with a generic bracket from ebay or something. The old radiator isn't really gonna work either. This single row radiator might fit, but by the time i ended up with a dual row in this spot, there's just no room. I'll probably end up with one of the v8-swap radiators from Northern.

 

[svtcards]

They are pretty nice.nice thick flanges.thank you for showing them to me.

 

[Dirtman]

The man loves a thick flange..

 

[svtcards]

I know it probably doesnt look like much, but I'm thrilled with todays progress. I'm gonna need a different steering shaft, the rag joint is pretty close to the header and i'm sure it's only a matter of time before i cook it. If i had a u-joint there i think i'd be in good shape. Had to clearance the header for the steering shaft, trim the frame a little on the passengers side, and the bellhousing had to be trimmed a little on both sides, but they're in! I haven't decided if I really need to reinforce the frame where i trimmed it, seems a lot of guys don't really worry about it. I kinda feel like i should do something though.

How much clearance do u have from the header tubes to the frame.1/2" or so? Do u think that's enough clearance for when engine flexes while u hammer on it? For header tubes hitting I mean?

 

[kunar]

How much clearance do u have from the header tubes to the frame.1/2" or so? Do u think that's enough clearance for when engine flexes while u hammer on it? For header tubes hitting I mean?

Yeah, probably 3/8-1/2, without actually going to check i couldnt say for sure. I don't know if it's going to be too close or not, i'll find out when i get there haha. If i need to make more clearance and reinforce that section, i will.

 

[svtcards]

That was going to be my next question if u feel the frames integrity will be an issue and best way how to reinforce it would be?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Easy fix for engine movement is to tie it down, I've used chain. The 4.0 uses a shock, stock from Ford.