Kicker Truck Box Worth The Money?

[a-5 freak]

I was looking on Ebay and saw that I could get a 12" Kicker CVT with box for 125 shipped. But i could get the sub by itself for 85 shipped. So is the extra money for the sub box worth it? Or could I save 40 bucks and build it myself easier?

 

[baxtej44]

I was looking on Ebay and saw that I could get a 12" Kicker CVT with box for 125 shipped. But i could get the sub by itself for 85 shipped. So is the extra money for the sub box worth it? Or could I save 40 bucks and build it myself easier?

not sure, all you need is mdf, wood glue, screws, carpet, few tools



anybody remind me if i forgot anything.


i imagine that you can make it for less, and it should lower the shipping cost quite a bit as well.

 

[DRAGGINASS]

i say build it...JUST MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT AIR SPACE FOR THAT SUBWOOFER.....NOT 2 LIL AN NOT 2 MUCH....80 percent of the sound of the woofer is the box...

 

[Ranger#1]

JUST MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT AIR SPACE FOR THAT SUBWOOFER.....NOT 2 LIL AN NOT 2 MUCH....80 percent of the sound of the woofer is the box...

thank you finaly somone understands a sheet of 5/8 mdf is about 35$ and thats 4/8 feet so you will have som extra for your second kicker

 

[kinville]

Not too mention those prefabs are all either sealed, or tuned kinda high... Building yourself is not only cheaper, but you can tune it nice and low!

 

[Ranger#1]

lol how low 20 hz lol

 

[kinville]

Haha only if you're listening to Bass Mechaniks.... Mid 30s will sound nice...

 

[baxtej44]

thank you finaly somone understands a sheet of 5/8 mdf is about 35$ and thats 4/8 feet so you will have som extra for your second kicker

so when do you need to step up 5/8 to 3/4?

what is the breaking point?

i was going to build a box this summer, and not sure what i would use.



dunno sub, and don't know amp... but it'd probably only be one sub at this time, sealed.



not hijacking i promise but this is beneficial to everyone.

 

[kinville]

Unless you're really looking to save that bit of money, its better just to go with the 3/4... Its more acoustically dead, and therefore ideal when dealing with low frequencies.

 

[4x4fun]

first go with 3/4, its not that the sub hitting will break it, which i have seen happen but its the weight of hte sub over long peiod of time can warp your box. the price of the sub/box is a lil under going rate, just fyi, every one says build a box build a box, if this if your first box, i dont see it turning out like a pro box, so keep that in mind. could you save $40 prolly not, a 4x8 sheet is 30 bucks, just buying that is 10 buck worth the bs, and youll lose the better part of a day, to build your first box. if you spend the 10 buck, at the end of the same day your truck's audio would be finished, oooorrrr you have a box its up to you,

and to the people that bitch about not sealing the inside of boxes, ffirst the if you cut the wood correctly you shouldnt have a gap. secondly i do it but i use glue not sealer to give the screws some extra hold, not to seal it. your working with really fancy cardbored keep that in mind......annnddddddd MDF is not air tight, it willl never be air tight, half the reason its used. so sealing the edges does diddly dick

end rant

 

[a-5 freak]

Well I have the feeling that whenever I do something, and I do it, it's just that more special. Having the feeling that... hey, I BUILT THAT BOX! So i think im going to build it myself. Any potential problems or tips and tricks to tell me about before I start?

I will go with the 3/4 board cause ya gotta do it right the first time. I will also use fatmat on the inside of the box. And I already was going to glue it and screw it. Will any type of carpet do? And all i would need to do is staple it on the box, Right? Also, if I use fatmat on the inside, can I use 5/8" and be just as good as 3/4"?

I am new to carpeting though. Is there a site i could go to (or a thread already posted) That gives a good walk thruogh on how to carpet a box?
Will any type of carpet do?

On a seperate note, I have been doing autoCAD Designs for a while now and have not been able to make a box that works with the kicker 12" CVT.and fits in my standard cab. Can anyone help me out here? I dont think i can go any higher than (correct me if i'm wrong) 13" tall because the back of the cab comes out a bit at 13". It would be preferable that it be angled too because im 6'2" and the seat goes all the way back, and I dont want the passenger seat sticking way out.

And if this helps out anybody, the specs for the 12" Kicker CVT is as follows;

Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 4-5/16, 10.9
Mounting Cutout (IN.,CM) 10-15/16, 27.8
Min Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 1.0, 28.3
Max Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 4.6, 130
Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters) 1.75, 49.6
Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters) 2.25, 63.7

Any help would be awesome and thank you guys so much for all the posts.

EDIT: I just looked up the price for a 12"Kicker CVR and its 15 dollars less than the kicker CVT. Should I use the CVR instead of the CVT?

 

[kinville]

Not to mention you gain the box, the satisfaction of having done it yourself, AND the knowledge you gained along the way. Using wood glue and screws is more than satisfactory for creating a good seal. And yes, you do want it well sealed. But definitely don't use the fatmat on the inside, you'll see no benefit from it. Don't listen to that unintelligible post above yours, prefab boxes are trash. Also, you can make yourself a ported box tuned properly which will sounds worlds better, and will have real sub bass output.

 

[a-5 freak]

thank you finaly somone understands a sheet of 5/8 mdf is about 35$ and thats 4/8 feet so you will have som extra for your second kicker

I found a sheet at lowes.com, 4/8 3/4" for $4.72.

 

[baxtej44]

Well I have the feeling that whenever I do something, and I do it, it's just that more special. Having the feeling that... hey, I BUILT THAT BOX! So i think im going to build it myself. Any potential problems or tips and tricks to tell me about before I start?

I will go with the 3/4 board cause ya gotta do it right the first time. I will also use fatmat on the inside of the box. And I already was going to glue it and screw it. Will any type of carpet do? And all i would need to do is staple it on the box, Right? Also, if I use fatmat on the inside, can I use 5/8" and be just as good as 3/4"?

I am new to carpeting though. Is there a site i could go to (or a thread already posted) That gives a good walk thruogh on how to carpet a box?
Will any type of carpet do?

On a seperate note, I have been doing autoCAD Designs for a while now and have not been able to make a box that works with the kicker 12" CVT.and fits in my standard cab. Can anyone help me out here? I dont think i can go any higher than (correct me if i'm wrong) 13" tall because the back of the cab comes out a bit at 13". It would be preferable that it be angled too because im 6'2" and the seat goes all the way back, and I dont want the passenger seat sticking way out.

And if this helps out anybody, the specs for the 12" Kicker CVT is as follows;

Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 4-5/16, 10.9
Mounting Cutout (IN.,CM) 10-15/16, 27.8
Min Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 1.0, 28.3
Max Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 4.6, 130
Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters) 1.75, 49.6
Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters) 2.25, 63.7

Any help would be awesome and thank you guys so much for all the posts.

check out my photobucket, i have a picture of my 88 xlt behind the seats from the program SketchUp

i measured, and created that back little shelf.

if you want i can send you the file over email or something, and you can edit it from there.


sketchup is really nice, user friendly, nice GUI, and not too technical for beginners like myself. i even got to color coordinate.


umm, i saw somewhere gluing the carpet to the box with spray adhesive (they used like a paint gun, but i assume canned is okay too, but you have to make sure that you press and pull really tight so there is no bumps)


get anything i say confirmed before doing it, by somebody who knows WTF they are talking about


gl, i can't wait until i can do this shit.

 

[4x4fun]

Not to mention you gain the box, the satisfaction of having done it yourself, AND the knowledge you gained along the way. Using wood glue and screws is more than satisfactory for creating a good seal. And yes, you do want it well sealed. But definitely don't use the fatmat on the inside, you'll see no benefit from it. Don't listen to that unintelligible post above yours, prefab boxes are trash. Also, you can make yourself a ported box tuned properly which will sounds worlds better, and will have real sub bass output.

first, I want to say Im sorry, for always being in a rush. I work two jobs and try and get on here as much as i can. so i do apologize, if any of my post seems scattered. some times i do only have 30 sec, to pump out information.

secondly, any gaps in a box that would act as a port, you will want to seal up. 100% with you. if you have no errors with your cutting, and your angles are correct. then putting sealer in the joints ads no benefit, instead, i would use a wood glue, it will "seal" as well as add holding power to the box.

third, to call a box made by the same company you buy your sub from junk, is retarded, if you trust the company to make your sub. why do you question their ability to make a box, iv never said get a walmart box, but most car audio companies make "premade" boxes for different applications, and there is nothing wrong with a box from JL, or kicker or the like. if you say other wise your talking out of your ass.

finally, if you have beef with me send me a "pm" the last two people that took me on, no longer visit the forum. I have only been here to help. and i give it when i can, considering i have been in the field for close to 10 years. i dont think i talk out of my ass, and ill be the first to admit in idk some thing.

any other complaints,