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Jvc stereo deck installation issues

master hec0

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so I installed a jvc deck into my 97 ranger the issue that I am having is it will only power up when the key is off and it would only eject cds and display time. from the 12v constant the strange thing is that the deck powered on fully functional prior to unplugging it to fit it into the dash. but once mounted properly it failed to work. i replace the adapter harness and it powered on for a few seconds before shutting down again. it would seem like a fuse was blown but i have checked all fuses. The only way I have been able to get it to work is to bypass the red wire by hooking the red wire directly to the battery. thus I am not getting power from the red wire 12v ignition. how do I go about trying to figure out where my problem is? or is there another place i can splice into so that the radio powers on when started?
 


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u have a Ranger wiring diagram? i cant remember if the 12v line is red.
i do remember that the memory line for the preste on the radio(constant v+) is yellow with a black stripe.

double check your ground connection. maybe thats the issue.
 

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12V CONSTANT YELLOW Ignition Harness
STARTER RED/LT. BLUE Ignition Harness
IGNITION GREEN/PURPLE Ignition Harness
ACCESSORY GRAY/YELLOW Ignition Harness
SECOND ACCESSORY BLACK/GREEN Ignition Harness
POWER LOCK (-) PINK/YELLOW Harness in Driver’s Kick Panel or Harness
Coming Into Vehicle From Driver’s Door
POWER UNLOCK (-) PINK/GREEN Harness in Driver’s Kick Panel or Harness
Coming Into Vehicle From Driver’s Door
PARKING LIGHTS (+) BROWN OR WHITE/BLACK At Headlight Switch
HEADLIGHTS (+) RED/YELLOW At Headlight Switch
DRIVER DOOR TRIGGER (-) YELLOW/BLACK Module Behind Center of Dash
PASSENGER DOOR TRIGGER (-) GRAY/RED Module Behind Center Of Dash
DOME SUPERVISION (+) BLACK/LT. BLUE Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel
HOOD PIN (-) TAN/LT. GREEN Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel
FACTORY ALARM ARM Arms with lock
FACTORY ALARM DISARM (-) GREEN/PURPLE Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel
TACHOMETER TAN/STRIPE or YELLOW/STRIPE Ignition Coil
BRAKE WIRE (+) LT. GREEN Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel Or Brake
Pedal Switch
HORN TRIGGER (-) YELLOW/LT. GREEN Harness At Steering Column
LEFT FRONT WINDOW UP RED/YELLOW At Driver Window Motor Inside Door
LEFT FRONT WINDOW DOWN YELLOW/RED At Driver Window Motor Inside Door
RIGHT FRONT WINDOW UP TAN/BLUE Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door
RIGHT FRONT WINDOW DOWN WHITE/YELLOW Harn
 

master hec0

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Thanks for that RSH but the stereo works now. if you read my other thread about the anti theft there is more info. basically the battery was too dead to run the 12v switched but could run the constant and could run the radio if directly connected.
 

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ohhhh i had something similar on mine hahaha
the truck had a 75 amp battery when i got it lol keeping the doors open too mcuh and the roof light killed the poor batt.

i got a motorcraft 120 amp now and i can run the radio with amp for about 3 hours and it wont faint to start.
good u found the issue.
 

master hec0

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I have a big 850cca battery out of a Mercedes diesel I will see if that fits if not I do work in a junkyard so I get 1st dibs on good batteries
 

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cool! mine is supposed to go on the 4.0 trucks. so it has plenty juice lol i think its 660 cold crank amps
 

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660, you make make me laugh RSH. 850CCA Motorcraft Max all the way.
 

master hec0

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awww hell the terminals are on the wrong side so the cables dont reach. oh well I can always get one from my junkyard
 

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That or put new cable on. You can get welding cable and terminals for cheap enough. And would help the electrical system.
 

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well i cant remember right now lol, but yeah i think its 850, i do know its specified for the explorers.
 

master hec0

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That or put new cable on. You can get welding cable and terminals for cheap enough. And would help the electrical system.
im not looking for upgrades yet. road legal is my direction. plus i bought it with a big double Din hole where the radio went so i needed a radio. but 1st off i have to weld up the holes in the floor then weld in some 99 ranger seats since all the bolts broke off from being rusted in. then put some rubberized liner on the floor no more vinyl carpet crap. and after the interior is back together. I need brakes bearing ball joints and a driver side manual locking hub. then I will look at improvements.
 

MountainMike

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im not looking for upgrades yet. road legal is my direction. plus i bought it with a big double Din hole where the radio went so i needed a radio. but 1st off i have to weld up the holes in the floor then weld in some 99 ranger seats since all the bolts broke off from being rusted in. then put some rubberized liner on the floor no more vinyl carpet crap. and after the interior is back together. I need brakes bearing ball joints and a driver side manual locking hub. then I will look at improvements.
I hear that, that's how it started with my 93.
 

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thats how ALL trucks started
 

MountainMike

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Well not necessarily. The 98 was fully road safe when I bought it. I didn't need to do anything to make it legal but sign some paperwork.
 

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