• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Just Another BII

mnewman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Messages
117
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
Ohio
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
Howdy folks. I figured I would share my "build" or, more accurately, my ongoing repair process.

Meet Mike. I don't normally name my cars/projects and I really still just call it "the bronco" but... I call it Mike because, at the time, I thought Bronco meant a MALE horse but I looked up the definition and, well, moving on... Mike is always fighting me. Simple things take way longer than it should and random ass parts aren't available (try finding a 4.10 ring and pinion for the D35). Dumb things that break randomly. Typically project car stuff but to the max.

20200818_104035.jpg


I would like to insert some foreshadowing and point out in this pic the Bronco had popped out of gear and unloaded itself while my back was turned. Had no parking brake at the time and I didn't double check the trans after hauling it 400 miles home before popping the straps loose. Learning experience without paying the price... I'll take it. This is an example of crap that happens when working on this but one of the few that didn't $$$. As of this post we are getting along better.

Anyway. This is my incredibly blue 1986 BII still rocking the 2.9 and a swapped in FM145 (I didn't know that until I got there). Obviously this is how I got it. I've always loved/driven Rangers so BII's have always been cool in my book but this blue bastard called to me. This was August 18th 2020 before the price hike so I got it at a fair deal. $500 less would've been a bit more to my liking but, like I said, it spoke to me. I probably should've realized at the time it was cursing at me. I still love it. It's got duals on it with some sorta of glasspacks so, yep, its loud and slow. I think it had ~135K on it at this point. I supposed it could be 235K but I think it runs too good. It's the quiest 2.9 I've had so far (4).

20200818_101042.jpg20200818_191608.jpg20200818_191619.jpg20200818_191625.jpg20200818_191650.jpg

The first thing I did was replaced all the gas struts for the rear hatch and glass. As far as what I got when I got it home, it really wasn't bad. The interior was 4/10. Driver's seat is shredded, headliner is sagging, door panels are warped a little and the plastics are faded/scratched in the back. All stuff that can be fixed. It ran good, shifted fine, and stopped. Pretty much everything works except the a/c. low washer fluid sensor and front speakers. Oh and someone removed the power door lock actuators from the front doors. Not sure why... The body is pretty solid, some rust staining on the bottom door seams and surface rust. [to be fair I found the rust later]. Overall the thing was 97% complete.

Initially my goal with this was to repair everything that was broken and worn to get it back to essentially stock. The more I got into it the more I realized it wasn't the diamond I thought I was polishing. I knew it had been in some sort of front end collision but it end up being more than just a bumper. The cowl is disformed so the body took more of a hit than I thought. Frame is ok so it's not a total disaster.

I've got about 2 years worth of project time into this so I'll keep updating this tread with past projects as I have time. I've meant to start this thread for a while now. Fair warning I will probably get things out of order. I'll try and get another post up soon but I need to choke down lunch and get back to work. I will also (eventually) post videos somewhere of these adventures as I filmed a lot of it but editing it so it's not boring AF takes time. I'll share those links when available if anyone is interested. Thanks for reading!
 
Last edited:


4x4junkie

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
10,649
Reaction score
425
Points
83
Location
So. Calif (SFV)
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.9L V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
35x12.50R15
Looks like a nice project for sure.

What are your plans? Continue restoring it to stock? You gonna make it into an offroad 4-wheeler build?


...and random ass parts aren't available (try finding a 4.10 ring and pinion for the D35).
D35 4.10 (4.11) right here:
 

mnewman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Messages
117
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
Ohio
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
I guess I forgot to finish my thought there. Going to be a nice driver with some light duty off roading. I don't feel the need to baby it but I'm also not looking to do a bunch of body damage. I also won't feel bad if I want to modify / update something. Although I plan on sticking with the 2.9. I'd like to go with the M5OD (or whatever its called) but I couldn't find one. At the point I made the call the trans had to be dealt with I had already spent time / money on correcting the 4x4 shift mech and a replacement shifter. One of my posts will be about the howler of a trans that's in it but I've already swapped in a junkyard unit. Which was just as bad and finally found someone to rebuild the FM145. Should be done in the next couple weeks.

Appreciate the link but the last time I checked everyone is ordering direct from Yukon and they have no ETA when they're actually going to make 4.10 (link is for 3.31). Summit estimated Feb of 2023 when I canceled the order. Hopefully it's not really that bad but I did find someone that had (1) set in stock... In Manitoba Canada. Either way that 2 month debacle is solved. FYI the doorman part list for the Dana 35 IFS via rockauto [internet in general] is, in fact, not reverse cut for the IFS setup. Anyone looking for a set of 4.10s for their Jeep? New in box haha.

EDIT: I forgot to mention I found Spicer made ring and pinion in 4.10 but those were $500-600. I was really debating changing out the lift for a bigger one and going to 4.56 and 35s but I really didn't want to go that high. While cool I didn't want to SAS it either. I like my weird old Ford s%#t.
 
Last edited:

bronco2fan

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
Messages
410
Reaction score
9
Points
18
Location
Copperas Cove, TX.
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.8 V6
Engine Size
2.8
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 inch body lift
Tire Size
33
Not a bad looking rig at all. Seen worse. Good luck and Happy wrenching.
 

mnewman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Messages
117
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
Ohio
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
To totally blow the timeline (not sure that matters either way) this past weekend I took the Bronco down to Hollerwood in Slade, KY for the Ohio River Four Wheeler's Meet and Greet ride. It's still on 31's but now has the Duff stage II 3" lift on it. It did very well. Limiting factor being tire size. I got tugged out twice. Once I was trying to climb a rock ledge and just couldn't get the rear to come up. We were on a time limit so we give it a gentle tug and I was up. Second I high-centered in a rut; also didn't take much to get me moving. I was surprised on many occasions when we'd turn, start climbing a hill and the bronco just went up it. Lots of fun was had. The only casualty was the passenger side Bronco II badge broke and part fell off when I was power washing it.

20221104_133811.jpg20221105_082826.jpg20221105_144731.jpg
 

RobbieD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
2,568
Reaction score
1,153
Points
113
Location
Georgia
Vehicle Year
1984,1990,1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
Cool pics. Even mixed in with the newer, higher-dollar rigs, that B2 is a class act. Nice one!
 

mnewman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Messages
117
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
Ohio
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
The very first and most painful problem I encountered was... It leaks. The entire rear cargo area was wet along with both front floor pans. The P/O must've stored this thing in the garage or something. If it leaked this bad every time it rains there would be no truck left. So I ended up pulling the rear windows (thanks to guidance here at the RS), cleaning the old gunk off, repainting all mating surfaces since I scratched the hell out of them and having the rear windows re-installed. Could have sworn I had pics of the area after it was cleaned and painted but I can't find them. Oh well.
20210501_181844.jpg

At the same time I had the windshield and both door windows replaced. WOW what a difference clear glass makes! I ended up replacing the door seals as well. It's mostly dry now. I think the cowl drains are plugged so I still need to look into that. I try to keep it out of the rain when it's just sitting here. I wasn't sure what sealed the rear hatch where it bolts down. I ended up cutting some rubber pads and using seam sealer to stop that from leaking. I thought I was being super slick with it but I somehow got the alignment off (we checked it so many times) so now the hatch is hard to open and get latched. Crap, now its almost glued in place. At least I have the rear glass that opens so I just don't open the hatch unless I'm taking dogs with me.

Now I have found the rust I mentioned before. The front pans really need to be stripped, sanded and treated. There is also a nice rust hole in the rear support but not much I can do about it. I let that area dry for a couple months and then sprayed as much rust inhibitor as I could in the area.
20210501_181820.jpg

There was some surface rust on the roof so I painted that when I had everything out.
20210501_181835.jpg

Chasing the leak I figured out most the seam sealer on the truck was in horrible shape with some regular caulk in there too. Scraped it all out and used EXTEND in most of the drip rails and rear cargo area. So far the areas I have painted after using the product is showing rust through so I'm definitely going back to POR15. The drip rails all got seam sealer re-installed.
20210711_183635.jpg

I splurged and bought paint matching spray paint. I just couldn't stand the thought of the the jam area of the rear hatch (and drip rails) being a different color. Was spendy but I'd do it again. This is the area that the rust ended up showing through. So I will end up doing it again but using POR15. The rest of the bottle of EXTEND went in the trash. But you can see I cleaned, treated, re-sealed and painted the jam area on the back hatch. I threw a new seal on there at the time as well.
20210711_183626.jpg20210722_170930.jpg

I will say this whole process took me forever. I am slow and I avoid stuff I don't like doing. Like sanding and tedious painting of things. Since I had to disassemble most of the rear interior to get the windows out I decided to take out the headliner and redo it as well. That's another post.
 
Last edited:

mnewman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Messages
117
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
Ohio
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
Cool pics. Even mixed in with the newer, higher-dollar rigs, that B2 is a class act. Nice one!
Thanks! It got a lot of attention for sure.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Top