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fixizin
FoMoCo is forcing me to buy a 'yota
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2008
- Messages
- 1,091
- Reaction score
- 132
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, FL
- Vehicle Year
- 99
- Make / Model
- XL Spurt
- Engine Type
- 3.0 V6
- Engine Size
- 3.0 (Flex)
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- Tire Size
- P235/75R15
- My credo
- A properly suspensioned Ranger can be safely airborne for up to 4 seconds at a time! =:O
Wasn't sure if I should revive last year's thread that started this odyssey of computer-controlled-engine "fun":
www.therangerstation.com
BUT, we're here now, so long-short: After doing the infamous "zip-tie slack fix" on the throttle cable, I noticed my TPS range was 15% to 87%, so idle was fine, but I wasn't achieving Wide Open Throttle (WOT!), and all the benefits thereof! (Really bothered me that I couldn't do the 'Clear Flooded Engine' mode by flooring throttle while cranking engine, i.e. good spark but zero fuel injected--sounds useful for checking compression during my upcoming spark plug change.)
FINALLY got around to moving ye olde DPFE sensor out of the way, and put my inherited right-angle ratcheting Phillips screwdriver (thanks Dad!) to work removing the TPS. Once off, I used a popsicle stick to twist it through its range, to get an idea of how thick of a "shim" I'd need to get that extra 4% at the top end.
With an eye to being able to reverse the jury-rig if "things didn't work out", I decided to leave the (female) TPS alone, and instead shim the (male) "blade" on the throttle-body shaft that actually turns the TPS. Being more out in the open, I figured that way I could "fine tune" the shim with a file, or remove it altogether with a Dremel or some acetone. My calibrated eyeball said to use the thin cardboard from the Gorilla Glue blister pack, lol... see pic:
AAAAND... missed it by THAT much! Range now runs from 20.0% to 92.5% !... so my idle is a bit high, but when I mash that right pedal she really gets a "throaty" roar! (Also Clear Flooded Engine works.) Backing off the anti-diesel screw doesn't help. After manually mashing the actuator to the idle position, I briefly saw it drop to 19.6%, but it went back to 20.0% pretty quickly. Rat-tail file here I come!
Hey, I saved $40-$80 on a new TPS, which may not have solved anything! Still say this setup needs a calibration pot... or slotted mounting holes that allow a few degrees of offset.
RonD: you da man! Fountain of KNOWledge!
SenorNoob: excellent point to investigate, and yes, my $12 Craftsman (ChiCom) multimeter says 5.00V measuring across pins 1 & 3...
STRETCHED Throttle Cable zip-tie fix barely changing TPS... sensor NOT easily removed.
{I know the infamous throttle cable slack-over-time issue is not engine-specific, but didn't know where else to post it.} BEFORE: Ancient OBD-II reader says idle position TPS reading is 14.9% (normal?), and mashed to the floor is only 87.0%... not good. ANY-hoo, did NOT want to remove...
BUT, we're here now, so long-short: After doing the infamous "zip-tie slack fix" on the throttle cable, I noticed my TPS range was 15% to 87%, so idle was fine, but I wasn't achieving Wide Open Throttle (WOT!), and all the benefits thereof! (Really bothered me that I couldn't do the 'Clear Flooded Engine' mode by flooring throttle while cranking engine, i.e. good spark but zero fuel injected--sounds useful for checking compression during my upcoming spark plug change.)
FINALLY got around to moving ye olde DPFE sensor out of the way, and put my inherited right-angle ratcheting Phillips screwdriver (thanks Dad!) to work removing the TPS. Once off, I used a popsicle stick to twist it through its range, to get an idea of how thick of a "shim" I'd need to get that extra 4% at the top end.
With an eye to being able to reverse the jury-rig if "things didn't work out", I decided to leave the (female) TPS alone, and instead shim the (male) "blade" on the throttle-body shaft that actually turns the TPS. Being more out in the open, I figured that way I could "fine tune" the shim with a file, or remove it altogether with a Dremel or some acetone. My calibrated eyeball said to use the thin cardboard from the Gorilla Glue blister pack, lol... see pic:
AAAAND... missed it by THAT much! Range now runs from 20.0% to 92.5% !... so my idle is a bit high, but when I mash that right pedal she really gets a "throaty" roar! (Also Clear Flooded Engine works.) Backing off the anti-diesel screw doesn't help. After manually mashing the actuator to the idle position, I briefly saw it drop to 19.6%, but it went back to 20.0% pretty quickly. Rat-tail file here I come!
Hey, I saved $40-$80 on a new TPS, which may not have solved anything! Still say this setup needs a calibration pot... or slotted mounting holes that allow a few degrees of offset.
RonD: you da man! Fountain of KNOWledge!
SenorNoob: excellent point to investigate, and yes, my $12 Craftsman (ChiCom) multimeter says 5.00V measuring across pins 1 & 3...
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