Is this a bleeding issue?

[Mrtin]

Just replaced my transmission, a 2wd R1. Also replaced clutch, flywheel, master and slave.

I'm having trouble shifting, particularly into second and third. The pedal is firm all the way to the ground and I have no problem shifting into first or reverse, nor into fourth or fifth.

It does not happen all the time, not nearly, but when it wont go into gear holding light pressure against the shifter DOES NOT let it drop in after a second. It will stay out of gear all day. There is no grinding or noise, it is just like the shifter is hitting a wall. I never jam it into place. Pumping the clutch pedal hard a few time between shifts seems to help quite a lot. This is the reason I assume it is a pressure issue.

I've read a great deal on here about bleeding this system. It does seem like it can take some time. I'm wondering if the problem I describe does in fact sound like an issue of air in the system to all of you. As I put in another old transmission which I never felt in operation, it is possible I've just inherited some problems. But again, pumping the pedal does help.

I will continue trying to bleed it if this sounds like a worthwhile thing to do. No leaks that I can see, and the fluid level is remaining constant.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

Yes you need to remove the master cylinder and line and bleed them using the correct procedure which can be found on YouTube. Do this to rule out air in the system first.

Otherwise you might have a dry pilot bearing, defective clutch disc(too thick), or defective pressure plate

If you remove the sight plug on the transmission you can measure the slave cylinder travel I believe the specification is 8mm minimum travel

 

[Mrtin]

Thanks. I read a lot of articles here about bleeding before I did this job, and I followed the bench bleeding method in a video that has been referred to and posted on TRS a lot. I guess I was wondering if having done all that meant I could in good faith rule out air in the system. Maybe I'll go back and do that again though. Truth be told I didn't follow it to the letter. I did not fully stretch the hose out, I just stretched it out some and moved it around a lot while keeping the whole thing oriented up and tapping on the line.

I did replace the pilot, I forgot to mention that. It was labeled as being pre-greased, and was packed with some kind of yellow grease. I didn't do anything else to it, just put it in as it came. Should I rule out a dry pilot bearing then, or should I have re-packed it?

I'll try and measure the travel of the slave through the port. Any tips on doing that? I've always heard of people doing that, but I can't really see how.

Thank you very much for your response. EDIT---I just saw the Perfection part two video where tape something to a coat hanger to measure the slave travel. Looks like a good idea, I'll try that out.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

Measure the slave travel first then you can rule out air. I wouldn't worry about the pilot bearing if you replaced it. You can use a screwdriver or something to measure travel. I like to use something that measures 8mm and set it up there as a "good, not good" gauge

 

[Mrtin]

OK, I measured the travel best I could. It seemed borderline. I pulled the master and went through the whole bench bleeding process again, taking a lot more care this time. I felt like I got more air out. Reinstalled, travel looked farther. Drove it, shifts much better. Thanks!

 

[99RangerKrazy]

Glad to read it is better! From what I recall, the Ranger's hydraulic systems are all "self-bleeding;" meaning as you use the clutch, any air will eventually be worked out, as long as you are able to shift. I would assume it'll get better as you drive it.