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2.3L ('83-'97) Is there a sticky on converting a fuel injection motor to carb?


Drummadude

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My Ranger is a carb model 1987, someone put in a 2.3 fuel injection motor. Took the plate off and put a mechanical fuel pump on. The problem I think is he may have used the distributor from the 2.0 for the vacuum advance. I am a neophyte and I am not sure where to start.
 


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What info do you have concerning the new motor and ecu? If you have an existing motor and matching ecu, it may be easiest to get that running as intended. Ie; put it back to electric fuel pump(s) and the proper distributor. More knowledgeable people should be along shortly to help you. But they will probably want as much info as you can provide concerning what is actually installed currently.
 

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Yup, unless you are going for a original restoration switching it back to carb is going to result in 2 things and only 2 things... Less power, and crappier fuel mileage.

Im a little confused though because 1987 would have been fuel injected anyway and not a "swap".
 
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Drummadude

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I bought this off FB market place, not a lot of details. The body has four small rust spots, incredible for a KY vehicle. The sticker under the hood shows a carb layout. The original 2.0 was replaced with a 2.3. As stated before he took the plate off the block and put the mechanical fuel pump off the 2.0 on it, manifold and carb. He couldn't get it to run and put it up for sale cheap. I love the look of the square body and later would like to do a V8 swap, but right now I need to get it running as a little shop truck. The distributor cap has been identified as a 2.0 by my parts counter guy at KOI. The distributor looks to be one also. So as a neophyte, I have no idea if that can be done, I suspect it is the vacuum advance on it is the reason he used it. He says he doesn't have any of those old parts, so that is out. I do have a distributor for a 2.3 without the module and a cap. I have no idea what the steps would be to use this distributor if it doesn't have the vacuum advance. The problem I was experiencing today is when I turn on the ignition, I am only getting 8 VDC at the coil hotwire, no spark to the distributor. It's a new coil. My accessories at the fuse box are reading 12VDC when the key is turned on. So I have more research to do and even more to learn, hence the question about a sticky. Thanks in advance for all who are responding, I am grateful for community.
 

bobbywalter

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Ballast resistor.
 

bobbywalter

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Yup, unless you are going for a original restoration switching it back to carb is going to result in 2 things and only 2 things... Less power, and crappier fuel mileage.

Im a little confused though because 1987 would have been fuel injected anyway and not a "swap".
My 87 2.0 had a carb.
 

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bobbywalter

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Yeah ....2.0 was a slug.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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RonD here on TRS said that the ballast went away in the 70s. But you own an 87 and can confirm it has one? Thanks for the help.
Factory duraspark setups are powered via a wire with a resister made into it. I chose not to spend $40 for a resistor wire so I have a $5 ceramic ballast resistor of the same resistance.



If your coil is not the old school can style you will have problems.

I am no 4cyl expert, to convert my 302 to carb I basically just needed a different distributor, intake and a carb.
 

Drummadude

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Factory duraspark setups are powered via a wire with a resister made into it. I chose not to spend $40 for a resistor wire so I have a $5 ceramic ballast resistor of the same resistance.



If your coil is not the old school can style you will have problems.

I am no 4cyl expert, to convert my 302 to carb I basically just needed a different distributor, intake and a carb.
I have a cylindrical coil.
 

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