Is the 1994 Ranger 4WD "shift on the fly" from low/4WD to high/2WD?

[don4331]

On other hand, if you're having to use low range to start the load you are towing, your Ranger probably isn't enough truck.

 

[scotts90ranger]

When offroad I occasionally shift from low range to high range while moving, sure it makes some noises but a slow shift from low to high with the clutch in maybe once a year hasn't seemed to hurt anything bad yet... I will likely be draining the transfer case in a few days so we shall see how shiny it is

 

[Josh B]

I think I recall the manual said to stop, push the 4WD shift button and back up about 10 ft. I never did the back up 10 ft thing, but I think it was to make sure the auto locking hubs locked in. Or was that when I shifted out of 4WD to disengage the auto locking hubs?

I was forgetting the back up thing too. Once got a good insight to the front drive axle by grabbing it, motor off, brake on, and giving it a twist, then seeing the activity amongst the front drive axles. Fairly simple, and fairly plain

 

[Josh B]

On other hand, if you're having to use low range to start the load you are towing, your Ranger probably isn't enough truck.

I had to use it once getting over a hump from a dead start after the engine had died. That was just a one time thing and after getting it over the hump did the back up thing and got started from a better spot. It was a very loaded truck and a very loaded trailer in a very unfamiliar location

 

[Shran]

The guts of M5ODR-1 transmission

4th is direct drive aka 1:1, no gears involved. - we can ignore it from here on.​

All M5ODR-1 transmissions have 23 tooth (I'm going to abbreviate that as 23T) input gear.​

All M5ODR-1 transmissions have 52T/23T 5th gears​

4.0 transmission has counter shaft with 38T---34T-25T-17T, Input, 3rd, 2nd, Reverse and 1st combo respectively. (Extra dash is space for 4th)​

non-4.0 transmission has counter shaft with 38T---32T-24T-16T, same order as 4.0​

Note: The gears are machined into the countershaft - no pulling them off to mix and match.​

4.0 (staying in order in transmission) 3rd 27T; 2nd - 31T; 1st - 35T (I'll ignore Reverse)​

non-4.0 (staying in order in transmission) 3rd 29T; 2nd - 32T; 1st - 36T​

Note 2: There is additional countershaft for reverse​

​

Maybe easier to visualize in a table:​

4.0	Input		4th	3rd	2nd	1st/Reverse	5th
Input	23	Output	-	27	31	35	23
Counter shaft	38		-	34	25	17	52
non 4.0
Input	23	Output	-	29	32	36	23
Counter shaft	30		-	32	24	16	52

​

Once upon a time, @Shran asked where I came up with my ratios and why they didn't match Ford brochure - well, I counted teeth on the gears and did the math. 38/23 * 36/16 = 3.72 for 1st in non 4.0 while 38/23 * 35/17 gives 3.40 in 4.0, similar for rest of ratios. If you put 31T 2nd gear from 4.0 transmission with 24T main shaft from non 4.0 transmission, the teeth on the gears would barely engage and very quickly break. So, it is all or nothing swap.​

I can't say if all inputs will work with all countershafts as I haven't tested, I've always swapped matched shafts (gears tend to be happiest when matching pairs, so I have always swapped inputs as well as counter shafts and gears.) And I can't tell you if Mazda used better steel in 4.0 HD transmission (We will note the 4.0 input shaft had a different part number). So, I can't tell you if the non-4.0 really has the strength in 1st behind 4.0 or not.

The old helical gear transfer cases (Dana 18, 20, 24, 300 & NP 203, 205) could be shifted from low to high like you would shift a crash box - shift out of low into neutral, match revs and shift into high (NP203 is easiest as range is really 2 spd. crash box; Dana 18 isn't bad as you're only moving 1 gear, the others are tricky as the linkage is...sloppy, better when they are set up for twin sticks). The newer transfer cases with their planetary gears e.g. BW1354 in Ranger, are next to impossible to manually shift due to design of teeth on shaft; electronic transfer cases have a "nanny" to prevent shifting if in gear/going more than 5 mph/8 km/h.

Nice table, I am going to bookmark this thread.

FWIW there are two DIFFERENT 23T input shafts and on aftermarket parts at least the 2.3/2.9/3.0 ones have an "ID ring" and the 4.0 one does not. I am guessing it's this, I pulled these off eBay listings, credit to seller "sasase"

 

[don4331]

I had to use it once getting over a hump from a dead start after the engine had died. That was just a one time thing and after getting it over the hump did the back up thing and got started from a better spot. It was a very loaded truck and a very loaded trailer in a very unfamiliar location

I've used 4-lo numerous times on steep, wet boat launches to avoid embarrassment. But once up to parking area, I shifted back to 2-hi to hit the road. I've never needed low range to tow on the road (when I was with legal/rated limits of the truck)*.

*Not that I would ever admit to towing over legal/rated limit of my Ranger.

 

[Ranger850]

So was OP's question answered. Can he start in 4-lo and shift to 2-hi on the fly?

 

[Shran]

So was OP's question answered. Can he start in 4-lo and shift to 2-hi on the fly?

No, you cannot do that. Or at least you're not supposed to and it's not good for the t-case.

I don't believe an electric shift setup would let you do that at all, it takes input from the speed sensor and I imagine it would delay the shift from happening until the vehicle stops.

 

[Josh B]

Nope, I just went and tried it, The only thing on the fly is in to 4x Hi. Going back to 2WD requires stopping and backing up.
It really is enlightening also to give the front drive shaft a twist when you're under there and watch what it does

 

[scotts90ranger]

The backing up thing is to unload the gears in the transfer case so they are not bound so they can disengage... after that the shift linkages will spring into their appropriate spot...

 

[Josh B]

Aha! There's an entire show going on outside, I hadn't really thought about what was going on inside

 

[don4331]

It's all about unloading tension in driveline - accelerating hard then letting off accomplishes the same thing.

 

[BrightCalypsoGreen]

Thanks for all the answers. I agree on the relieving tension using acceleration and then backing off. As for not having "enough truck," it's all I have. The Ranger is rated to 5500#s towing with the automatic. I have 4500# on it and the only issue I have with the manual is on inclines starting out from a dead stop. Once the truck moves 10' I'm just fine. So the truck itself has no problem, ie I already have "enough truck" with the Ranger, I just need a bit more gear and was thinking of trying to use the Low range. I know I do it alot when backing into very tight spaces with the trailer. It makes it so much easier.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Thanks for all the answers. I agree on the relieving tension using acceleration and then backing off. As for not having "enough truck," it's all I have. The Ranger is rated to 5500#s towing with the automatic. I have 4500# on it and the only issue I have with the manual is on inclines starting out from a dead stop. Once the truck moves 10' I'm just fine. So the truck itself has no problem, ie I already have "enough truck" with the Ranger, I just need a bit more gear and was thinking of trying to use the Low range. I know I do it alot when backing into very tight spaces with the trailer. It makes it so much easier.

That high mazda trans reverse gear is a killer.

I had a 93 F150 for a bit with a 300/5sp 2wd. It would damn near run 20 idleing in reverse but trying to back a trailer up with any weight on it sucked royally