Is my Ranger wired to tow a trailer with electric brakes?

[rdsrds123]

I have a 2007 4cyl 5-speed, and I just bought my first trailer. The trailer is a small 13ft travel trailer with electric brakes, about 1500# or so. I have a step bumper and an existing 4-wire connector. Brakes take at least a five wire connector, I understand.

I'd like to get a brake module that goes under the dash and connects to where? I believe there is an existing plug in for this module, but I don't have the slightest idea where to find it.

...and then, do I have existing wiring that goes from this module plug in, to the step bumper area so I can add a five wire connector? This is the part I really don't understand? If the previous owner put in the existing 4 wire connector, did they leave the fifth blue brake wire hanging somewhere? I would like to up grade to a five wire connector, instead of a seven wire connector (maybe). How do I do this? How do I remove the 4 wire connector and wire up all five wires to a new, seven wire connector(if necessary)?

This is really basic stuff, but again, for me, this is my first towing experience. I would truly appreciate someone cluing me in on how to do this connect up for using the brakes in my new used travel trailer. Thanks!

 

[RonD]

Trailer wiring is fairly standard on US/Canadian made vehicles

Good read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TrailerLights.shtml

Yes, Blue wire is usually the electric brake wire that you would see in the wiring harness at the rear if it was added when vehicle was made.

I doubt previous owner would change vehicle connector to match trailer, it is almost always done the other way around, if you had 1 trailer and 2 tow vehicles then maybe.

You want to add trailer brakes so you do need to change vehicle connector, look at the diagrams in above link and change to 5 pin connect that fits your trailer's 5-pin connector.
Trailer brake control in the cab will need fused 12volt power and then a blue wire run to the back of the truck.

If trailer has 6-pin then use that and run another wire for the 12volts, this is used to power trailer inside lights or.....??
7 pin includes reverse lights but you can do that with 6 pin instead of the 12volts

 

[samkat6865]

I work for a national rv dealer and put in tons of brake controllers. My 02 ranger 4x4 is not wired for a b/c. You normally put in a 7way round plug using only 6 wires. The blue wire on a flat 5 plug is for reverse light to lock out brakes when backing up if you have surge brakes. I'm willing to bet that your ranger isn't wired for the brake controller. Its not real hard to do. Your b/c will come with simple instructions. Hardest part is running a fused charge wire (and a dedicated ground wire) back to keep the battery on the camper charged, there has to be a battery on anything with electric brakes to stop it if it breaks away from your truck, federal DOT. Then running another big blue wire back for the brakes. Pos, Neg, brake signal to the b/c, and that big blue one back to the 7way. We do the installs for 1 hr labor ($129) plus parts.You may want to call a local uhaul store just to see how much they charge.

 

[TC]

Question on the electric brakes

I need to clarify if you would, on electric brakes on trailers? You indicate 12 v power has to be applied at all times to them. How do they work? I am new to them completely I thought they assisted you in stopping, don't know how? but from reading your post it seems they are more of a safety measure and lock up if trailer breaks away ? Am I correct to think that?
Now I am getting a boat and trailer and only have to move it about one mile it is on a tandem trailer with electric brakes, will I have to wire this up before I can move it ? or will it remain locked without power added to the trailer ? I was just thinking I could tow it home and then later set it up with the hitch recepticle outlet. I only have the flat one, wired and those connections have to be checked out . I was going to that when I had the boat and trailer ? It is a flat level road. ? one mile.
Thanks for anyone's help one this

 

[Captain Ledd]

Hmm, bit of an older post, BUT we do tell people to search so I'll respond.

Seems the original topic was mostly covered so I'll address TC's concerns.

There two types of brakes being discussed in the last few posts, electric trailer brakes, and hydraulic surge brakes.

Electric brakes: These use the large blue wire from a brake controller, and it only gets power (or should get power) when you apply the brakes or try stopping. There's some minor exceptions/circumstances depending on what type of brake controller you get, but that's still the way they'll work 98% of the time. There is a electro-magnet in the drum, and it sticks itself up against the inside of the drum moving a lever and actuating the brake shoes. The more amperage, the harder the magnets grab, the harder they help you stop. Though they really won't "lock up" unless you're empty or too light, they just assist.

Hydraulic surge: These have a actual brake cylinder on the hitch section, when you try stopping, the trailer pushes forward and activates the brakes just like stepping on the brake pedal. They don't assist much when lightly stopping, they're really only there for heavy or panic stops. The 5th wire for the reverse lights is to lock out this device, because as you can imagine, if you try to reverse with this type of brake setup, it will apply the brakes in reverse. And especially so if you are trying to back up a bit of an incline.

For your boat: One mile isn't that far. No hills so that's good. Take it slow, use your flashers, preferably at a time where there's not a lot of traffic out. The brakes should move fine. I have seen some boat trailers with a lever for brakes, like an e-brake for when it's parked. Not terribly common, but be sure to keep an eye out for it.

 

[AllanD]

There is also an Electro-hydraulic setup.

this is where the Wheel brakes on the trailer are hydraulic but instead of a "surge" activated master cylinder there is an electrically driven piston for a hydraulic master cylinder on the trailer...

Building and maintaining one of these systems is a bit more complicated but it makes possible things like hydraulic Disc brakes on a trailer towed by a truck with an electric brake controller...


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[adsm08]

I need to clarify if you would, on electric brakes on trailers? You indicate 12 v power has to be applied at all times to them. How do they work? I am new to them completely I thought they assisted you in stopping, don't know how? but from reading your post it seems they are more of a safety measure and lock up if trailer breaks away ? Am I correct to think that?
Now I am getting a boat and trailer and only have to move it about one mile it is on a tandem trailer with electric brakes, will I have to wire this up before I can move it ? or will it remain locked without power added to the trailer ? I was just thinking I could tow it home and then later set it up with the hitch recepticle outlet. I only have the flat one, wired and those connections have to be checked out . I was going to that when I had the boat and trailer ? It is a flat level road. ? one mile.
Thanks for anyone's help one this

You are way out in left field with your understanding of the operation.

The electric trailer brakes are normally released. The brake controller allows the power sent to them to be varied according to need (you can set light application for a small trailer or and empty one and increase the power for a heavy or loaded trailer). This signal runs along the blue wire.

A 7-pin also has a 12V auxiliary line. A properly built electric trailer brake system will have a 12V battery on board and a rip-cord that is hooked to the tow vehicle. If something bad would happen, like the trailer jumping the ball or the hitch breaking, and the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle the cord gets pulled out and that 12V battery will apply the trailer's brakes even without a signal from the controller. The 12V aux line is used to keep that battery charged while towing.

With the surge brakes there is a different 12V signal from the reverse light circuit to keep the surge brakes from applying while backing up.