Is anyone other than me an automotive wiring nerd?

[Curious Hound]

I've done lots of research and found at least 10 conflicting answers, so I'll ask here. What do you guys use for wiring on a winch? Mostly looking at 12k stuff since that's what I have, but am open to suggestions from anyone. I'd really like to use Anderson-style connectors and run something to the back to allow the winch to be used that way. I would probably also make/buy a set of jumper cable adapters.

My winch is hard-mounted. So I hard-wired it directly to the battery.

For a removable setup, at the front, I would recommend wire the same size as what comes with the winch. Or whatever they recommend in the directions. For the cable going to the rear, It may be wise to go up one size to reduce resistance and voltage loss over that length of circuit. Not sure how important that is in this case. If all you ever do with the winch is short bursts with time in between to let wiring and motor cool, then that may be unnecessary. But if you think it will see long pulls, the bigger wire is a good idea.

With the wire sizes involved in winch wiring, I would not recommend soldered splices and connections unless you are good at doing it with a torch. There aren't many consumer grade soldering irons/guns capable of supplying the heat for that size wire. Properly sized and properly crimped connectors with sealed heat shrink is the way to go.

 

[SenorNoob]

I would be making the connections with the hydraulic crimper at work...

 

[Curious Hound]

I would be making the connections with the hydraulic crimper at work...

Awesome.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

2awg if you are running to the rear. Even with a hydraulic crimper I would not splice the wire. Bit that's just me. I will not put splices in wire u less absolutely nessary. If I were to do a front/rear winch setup. I would buy one of those battery switches that allow you to switch between 2 different sources. Plus be sure to add a fuse on the rear cable if you can't shut it off. I've seen some pretty good meltdowns from a short underneath. I'd use an ANL fuse block but that's just me. I have my winch wired straight to the battery with nothing in between. But I probably should add some kind of fused protection. But it 3ft and when you do electrical work all day I find I half ass mu stuff haha

 

[Uncle Gump]

MIL spec battery cable ends for the win...

I crimped copper lugs to my existing battery cables with shrink wrap. My winch is hard wired to the front.

The G-Unit will get the ability to run the winch front or rear with Anderson connector. I had also planned to make a set of jumper cables that could be plugged in front or rear.

 

[holyford86]

MIL spec battery cable ends for the win...

I crimped copper lugs to my existing battery cables with shrink wrap. My winch is hard wired to the front.

View attachment 122198

The G-Unit will get the ability to run the winch front or rear with Anderson connector. I had also planned to make a set of jumper cables that could be plugged in front or rear.

Those are some of the best cable ends I've used, when I need to replace them on any of my trucks, they're my go to.

2awg if you are running to the rear. Even with a hydraulic crimper I would not splice the wire. Bit that's just me. I will not put splices in wire u less absolutely nessary. If I were to do a front/rear winch setup. I would buy one of those battery switches that allow you to switch between 2 different sources. Plus be sure to add a fuse on the rear cable if you can't shut it off. I've seen some pretty good meltdowns from a short underneath. I'd use an ANL fuse block but that's just me. I have my winch wired straight to the battery with nothing in between. But I probably should add some kind of fused protection. But it 3ft and when you do electrical work all day I find I half ass mu stuff haha

As an addition to this, a good source for a long run of quality 2 awg cable can be found in buses with wheelchair lifts if you have any in junkyards near you. It’s pretty easy to get 20 or more feet of cable from a school bus with a lift in the rear.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

Those are some of the best cable ends I've used, when I need to replace them on any of my trucks, they're my go to.



As an addition to this, a good source for a long run of quality 2 awg cable can be found in buses with wheelchair lifts if you have any in junkyards near you. It’s pretty easy to get 20 or more feet of cable from a school bus with a lift in the rear.

Or my shop. I order it in 500ft rolls haha

 

[holyford86]

@Robertmangrum.rm must be nice, haha

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

@Robertmangrum.rm must be nice, haha

I pull 75' of red and 75' of black per bus.

 

[Curious Hound]

I think it's safe to say @Robertmangrum.rm is definitely an vehicle wiring nerd.

 

[holyford86]

I've also gathered that

 

[holyford86]

I pull 75' of red and 75' of black per bus.

Now you're just rubbing it in my face, haha

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

Now you're just rubbing it in my face, haha

We figured it up back several years ago and it was almost 5 miles of wire we put into every bus. With HDMI cables now and new advances in electronics those numbers are probably down to like 3 miles these days. It takes almost 3 days to get all the rough in wiring in place before they can start installing headliners. I use all Marine grade tinned copper wire to avoid corrosion. It's more expensive but when you build a product that costs close to 1million dollars when completed. You don't cheap out on wire haha.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

I think it's safe to say @Robertmangrum.rm is definitely an vehicle wiring nerd.

Not just wire. I like to play with pneumatic systems too haha

 

[Bill]

For anyone who wants to wire stuff in a vehicle, the Blue Sea products he uses are very good in vehicles and other places subject condensation. I use a few of their products for portable ham radio. I haven't had any issues with voltage drop. Their products are a little bit expensive, but not too bad.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/Fuse_Blocks#