Installing new radiator

[RangerGoolz]

Ok folks I have a small radiator leak in the 86 Ranger I just got. So immediately ordered a new aluminum radiator and planning to install this weekend. I have done these before on classic cars but thought i would ask if there are any pointers or tips I should be aware of prior to starting. I a also curious about proper procedure for filling and burping the air out of the system after the new radiator is in? Any upgrade , maintenance, or mods I need to do while I'm in there? Thanks in advance. This forum is amazing.

 

[gaz]

@RangerGoolz ,
Make the radiator cap the highest point, add coolant as needed for 3-6 temp cycles or as many as are needed; burping these usually takes me 45-1 hour since the engines warm up so slow.

It would be prudent since you may not know the complete maintenance history of the vehicle to install a new thermostat, hoses/clamps and possibly water pump and both temp gauges.

For extra cooling add an engine oil cooler. For extra fuel economy, lose the crank driven fan/clutch for an electronic fan; this single change (going to an electric fan) is responsible for the highest improvement in fuel economy for my vehicles.

 

[RangerGoolz]

Thanks GAZ, so after install is complete fill with coolant and start without the cap on till warm and then add coolant as it warms up? I also have read on these forums that a 180 degree thermostat is preferable. Is the stock thermostat not 180? Last question on the temp gauges; there are two? I am not sure of their location. Thanks

 

[Shran]

Welcome to the forum!

My process for burping them is to fill the radiator, leave the cap off and start the truck. Refill it as it goes down. If it starts bubbling out, put the cap on and drive it a block or two, bring it back, let it cool off and repeat the process, BUT, this time, bring the engine RPM up to about 2500-3000 and fill the radiator (you will see it suck coolant down) and put the cap on, then let the RPMs drop and you should be good from there.

192/195 degree thermostat is stock. 180 is unnecessary IMO unless you regularly drive in a very hot environment where having it open sooner would be preferable. It can negatively affect your heater in cold temps. I would just run the higher temp one in Colorado.

There are two temperature related devices on the engine - the coolant temp sensor and the coolant temp sender. The former reports coolant temp to the ECM and has a big round two pin plug, the latter runs your temp gauge and has a small one wire plug. If I remember right they are both screwed into the lower intake on a 2.9.

 

[AndyB.]

Funnels like this make filling and waiting for the air to come out a little easier:

https://www.amazon.com/Thorstone-Radiator-Automotive-Antifreeze-Universal/dp/B097BHJJPS/ref=asc_df_B097BHJJPS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=532866442045&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16193009549273615280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015737&hvtargid=pla-1413090047741&psc=1

 

[RangerGoolz]

Thanks @AndyB. I had no idea they made such a funnel. Just ordered it. Again, this forum is amazing!

 

[AndyB.]

They’re pretty great, you can keep 1/2 gallon of coolant in the funnel, so while the air is working it’s way out you don’t have to keep pouring it into the radiator. When you’re done, there’s a stopper with a handle to close off the bottom of the funnel (you can put it back over the jug, pull up the stopper and put the coolant back in.

 

[Junkyardexpress]

Another trick is to squeeze the upper radiator hose like a priming bulb for a outboard motor. And yes those funnels work awesome. These old trucks aren't finicky to bleed like newer vehicles.