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Input wanted and some questions involving my 88 Bronco II


lil_Blue_Ford

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So, I may move this to another part of the forum later but we shall see how this goes… also, there is no specific timeline here at this point, but I want to firm up a plan and start collecting anything I may need because at some point after I fix my dump truck, I’d like to get back to this project…

The quick question is, I had to cut my transmission crossmember when I built the extended arms, but I don’t remember how it should be positioned because I cut it several years ago. Now I have to move the truck and need to secure the transmission. My crossmember was the one with the rubber bushings on the outside of the frame rails so I know this wasn’t tight against the bottom of the frame rails, but I don’t remember how far below the frame rails the crossmember sat. So if someone happened to be able to measure or know how far below the frame rails that crossmember should sit, I’d appreciate the information, even if it’s a temporary thing while this truck gets relocated.

Now…

As it sits, 1988 Bronco II Eddie Bauer. 2.9 block under the hood (just the short block), A4LD, 1350e, 3.73 gears in open/open D-28/7.5”, 30” tires, 2” suspension lift, slated to get a 1” body lift too.

My original plan (after I scrapped my first attempt at going 4.0 OHV) was to do a sort of resto-mod all around and try tweaking the 2.9 (free-floating rockers, headers, MAF conversion, etc) plus a shift kit and valve body work to the A4LD. Back when I started fixing it up, I bought a pile of parts, so either in the truck or around the property I should have nearly ever piece that I need to do that short of some interior stuff. I’m talking wheel bearings, U-joints, every brake component for both axles, engine V-belts, AC stuff, sensors, seals, gaskets, body mounts, suspension bushings, shocks, etc. I ended up having some health issues and the project got put on hold a number of years ago. I’m really annoyed at it still sitting with a pile of parts so at some point after I fix the dump truck, I’d like to get back to this thing.

The past few days I’ve been working on getting this thing prepped to move, it’s in the way where it’s at in the driveway, it’s going to be a good few months before I can dedicate time to it, etc. Finally got the drivers side extended arm positioned and welded (still needs plated but it’s solid enough for now), have to secure the transmission and body yet. So I’ve been kinda climbing all over this thing to prep it and I’ve started having some thoughts. Especially considering a few things that I’ve decided on changing from my original plans and in light of the fact that drivetrain parts for this are starting to become a bit obsolete. Also, I’ve discovered that mice and bugs have been using the short block as entertainment plus some water has found it’s way into the cylinders, so at best I would probably have to pull the block, pull the oil pan, clean things up, and put it back together. At worst, the block needs rebuilt and/or is junk. I’m also suspecting something is broken in the transmission, hopefully just the parking pawl, but possibly something more because park doesn’t hold.

I do have 2-3 other A4LD transmissions around that were good. I don’t have a good 2.9 anywhere, but I may have a rebuildable block in the shed still. I have one or two 1350e cases that were good laying around. I have two complete D-28 axles in addition to what’s in the 88, both have 4.10 gears and one has a locker. I have a couple sets of front hubs for the D-28. I have access to an 8.8” out of a Ranger with 4.10 gears. I have a 7.5 that the carrier is junk along with the gears, but good everything else including new brakes. Also have a hybrid D-28/35 front axle, complete. So I do have a selection of stuff to keep a stock setup alive if I want to do the work and I have some options to make changes.

After putting a plastic gas tank in my Choptop earlier this year with a new fuel pump and actually having it run way better despite not replacing the fuel filter or fixing the janky fuel lines (that stuff is on the list, just haven’t got to it yet), I started thinking of ripping the fuel system out of the 88, throw a plastic tank in with the 89/90 pump and run new fuel lines in -6 AN just to simply and improve things. Add that thought with my consideration that I’ll have to pull the block back out and the trans out and I’m starting to wonder if I should consider just engine swapping to something more modern that will give me more power, reliability, and better access to parts (2.9 motors around here have gotten rather scarce in the last few years).

I also started questioning tire size. My original plan was to run 30” tires because I had some that were good at the time. Well, they aren’t any good now. My 92 Ranger has a good set (and a 3.73 geared set of open D-35 and L/S 8.8), that truck being wrecked and my likely plan for it is to cut out the damage and go full-width SuperDuty axles means those parts are technically up for grabs too. But back to tire size, I’ve been considering going to 31x10.50-15 instead of 30” tires on the 88. Depending on what engine lands in it, I may want 4.10 gears to run 31” tires.

My end goal with this is to build something that looks vaguely stock, is comfortable to DD, and capable for some off-road exercise. I know that a stock B2 is very capable on 30” tires and the 2.9/A4LD/D-28/7.5” is tolerant of that. I’m just no longer convinced on that particular combination being a particularly great idea. Once my spares run out, all of that except the transmission would have to be upgraded, and to keep the trans would put me to using the 4.0 OHV, which are becoming a rather aged platform. Just wondering if I might be farther ahead to do all of my upgrades at once and just hold onto the parts I have for if I end up with a stock truck again that I’m trying to keep alive for awhile (it’s happened a couple times now).

So bearing that all in mind, I want to hear some reasonable drivetrain recommendations and why you would go that route. I’m gonna tag a couple people, but really I’m open to all input, all I ask is that you be reasonable and justify why. If any of you can think of someone who might have something useful to contribute, go ahead and tag them for me. My budget is limited but I have time to start sourcing things. I have a welder and some basic fab tools and skills.

@Jim Oaks , @bobbywalter , @4x4junkie , @Curious Hound

Oh, and here is the subject…
B81D76AD-A9FA-412C-A43F-A8793822AB28.jpeg
 


bobbywalter

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2 in ratchet strap
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Curious Hound

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lil_Blue_Ford

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2 in ratchet strap
I mean, it is an option…

Honestly, I expected something more along the lines of a 2.3 EcoBoost and some supporting information but I guess I wasn’t specific as to what kind of answers I wanted from you…
 

Curious Hound

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I'd recommend D35/8.8", 4 10 gears, 31" tires and whatever engine you can scrape up. That combo should work well with any RBV engine or a coyote.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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I'd recommend D35/8.8", 4 10 gears, 31" tires and whatever engine you can scrape up. That combo should work well with any RBV engine or a coyote.
That’s what I started thinking… I was trying to stay away from a gear change, but I think by the time I get done with it, I’m not going to be completely happy unless I do 31” tires and a D-35/8.8”, so there is that. I don’t have a spare 4.10 geared D-35, that may take some scrounging.

That said, I could potentially throw the hybrid front in with 4.10 gears and change to a true D-35 later since the beams and outers would stay the same.
 

bobbywalter

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ecoboost with a good rear drive application is not cheap.

ecoboost with a front drive application is actually climbing in costs making living with the shortfalls more difficult.. not horrible though.&

LS is still sensible. 5.3 with an ar5 around grand...2500.

that means....

300 dollar 4.0 is ideal if you can find one.



ratchet strap to move it around.


maybe
drag it over and make lol bob work on it
 

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I would 2nd what Hound said, simple and durable.

Not sure if this pic helps... I don't have any with a bushing-style crossmember.
It's not super real critical though, you just want the T-case to be about 1.5-2" up from resting on the T-case skid (or it about flush with the bottom of the frame rails).

rockbar1.JPG
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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Post #25 "low buck race truck" I have a couple pics of the crosmember and frame bracket. Not sure if it helps.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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ecoboost with a good rear drive application is not cheap.

ecoboost with a front drive application is actually climbing in costs making living with the shortfalls more difficult.. not horrible though.&

LS is still sensible. 5.3 with an ar5 around grand...2500.

that means....

300 dollar 4.0 is ideal if you can find one.



ratchet strap to move it around.


maybe
drag it over and make lol bob work on it
I figured that going Ecoboost or LS wouldn’t be exactly cheap. I’m ok with that since this isn’t something I’m trying to get put together tomorrow. I’m just trying to determine the better long-term solution since the 2.9 hasn’t been produced in over 30 years and even the 4.0 OHV is over 20 years out of production. The 4.0 is still relatively plentiful though.

This is going to be pretty much a complete rebuild of the truck. The frame is pretty much perfect, oddly enough. My end goal was to make it essentially a brand new truck, new everything. Ideally I’d refresh the engine and transmission, but I’d be ok with dropping a used drivetrain in if it comes to that. This build is actually a little different for me, most of my builds thus far have been a “hurry up and get it done because I need it” and the few times they didn’t start that way, they ended up that way. That’s a non-issue with this one. My F-150 is still capable of limping around. Choptop needs a few things, but I can drive it when I want. Green Ranger still needs some things sorted out, but it’s doing what it’s supposed to. I don’t need the 88 for anything in particular and by the time I get to making it the main project again, I’ll have the dump truck overhauled and working.

I do have access to a stream of 4.0 motors for around $300. So that’s not really a problem. I’m just not sure if it’s the right move. 20 years ago it would be a no-brainer. Actually, if I want to be honest, I have an entire 4.0 drivetrain in my 92 that could be swapped over. It worked good and the A4LD already has the tweaks done to it. I’d like to rebuild the 92, but when that happens, I’m ditching the entire drivetrain in favor of building something more in line with your monster.

If he wants to work on it for me, I’ll haul it over with the parts I have for it, lol
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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I would 2nd what Hound said, simple and durable.

Not sure if this pic helps... I don't have any with a bushing-style crossmember.
It's not super real critical though, you just want the T-case to be about 1.5-2" up from resting on the T-case skid (or it about flush with the bottom of the frame rails).
View attachment 120111
Post #25 "low buck race truck" I have a couple pics of the crosmember and frame bracket. Not sure if it helps.
That all helps, I appreciate it. My first thought was to bolt up tight to the bottom of the frame rail with the crossmember, but then I realized it would have to have space for the bushings on the outside of the frame rails to do their job of isolating the vibration and noise transfer, so the crossmember would have been bent to allow for that. If I end up keeping a 2.9/4.0 drivetrain, I want to make sure I get this positioned relatively close to where it should sit. If I don’t keep this drivetrain, I’ll still need a transmission crossmember somewhere, lol. I had taken measurements and all when I tore it apart, but I didn’t keep proper notes and I just flat out don’t remember at this point.
 

bobbywalter

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That all helps, I appreciate it. My first thought was to bolt up tight to the bottom of the frame rail with the crossmember, but then I realized it would have to have space for the bushings on the outside of the frame rails to do their job of isolating the vibration and noise transfer, so the crossmember would have been bent to allow for that. If I end up keeping a 2.9/4.0 drivetrain, I want to make sure I get this positioned relatively close to where it should sit. If I don’t keep this drivetrain, I’ll still need a transmission crossmember somewhere, lol. I had taken measurements and all when I tore it apart, but I didn’t keep proper notes and I just flat out don’t remember at this point.


that design aids in assembly line installation... the later style like junkie has posted eventually improved long term nvh and driveshaft vibration complaints and improved assembly line
installations.


whenever possible i try to capture the k member and minimize drag potential...if the bolts get loose and fall out or get sheared off snagging something i want the k member captured in the rails.

very simple. the proper height and spatial relationship is is easy to dial in.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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that design aids in assembly line installation... the later style like junkie has posted eventually improved long term nvh and driveshaft vibration complaints and improved assembly line
installations.


whenever possible i try to capture the k member and minimize drag potential...if the bolts get loose and fall out or get sheared off snagging something i want the k member captured in the rails.

very simple. the proper height and spatial relationship is is easy to dial in.
I think I used to know a lot of this stuff and had a little more confidence in what I was doing, but with my health problems, there’s a lot I’m trying to get my head wrapped back around. So I appreciate you all putting up with me, lol.

My extended radius arm mounts bolt to the factory transmission crossmember holes. I gave myself a 1/4” thick flange on the inside of the frame rails on each side with the mounts to have something to attach the transmission crossmember to. My idea there was to get the longest arms practical, use factory mounting holes for simplicity and locating purposes, and to tie everything together securely. My Choptop has a cobbled together mess for the whole thing, I’m trying to do this one a little more neatly.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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And now the plot thickens… I’ve been offered a running 2.9 for the price of come get it…

Anyone got a line on a 4.10 geared D-35 for a reasonable price? :icon_rofl:
 

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