Inner tie rod replacement

[gw33gp]

I replaced the inner tie rods this weekend and was surprised to see how easy it was for the most part. I did buy the inner tie rod tool from Harbor Freight which helped a lot. Yes, you can use a pipe wrench also but you have to turn the steering all the way out and I think the force used to break it lose could potentially damage the rack and pinion. I think it is much safer to turn the steering all the way in and use the correct tool to break it loose.

The most difficult thing to do was putting the boots back on. I don't know if it is the same for 2WD but it is difficult for 4WD. I put a little lube on to help slide them place but there is not much access because it is like working in a little cave. It is hard to tell if they are fully seated once you do get them on. The right side is not too bad because there is a little access to the backside. The left side has too much stuff on the back side and very little access.

The boots have three nubs spaced around the rim and I used a dull screw driver to push on them to get the boots in place. I realized afterward that I should have made a tube with the right ID to slip over the boot to push against the nubs. That would probably have made an easy job of it. There is a vent that sticks out on the boots but a little cut out on the tube should be enough to clear that.

My kit came with metal bands to clamp the boots onto the rack and pinion housing. I have a tool to clamp those and it worked fine for the right side because of more access to the backside. The left side did not work so well. I had to improvise with some other tools and a lot of time to get it clamped. Tie straps would have been easier but I don't know how durable they would be over time.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I just took your duplicate thread right off the forum.

Been awhile since I've done inner tie rods on a rack... I have a inner tie rod tool in my box. I don't believe I've ever done them on a Ranger.

I shook my front end down a while ago when I replaced my RF wheel bearing. Things seem pretty tight for now. I'm sure i will be doing this very job sometime in the future... thanks for the heads up on the driver side boot. I have a pair of boot clamp pliers... I also have an old pair of diagonal cutters that I took a grinder to to flatten the cutting edge... those have come in handy a time or two over the years when straight line access to the clamp is limited.

 

[sgtsandman]

I've never had to do that job. Thanks for the heads up.

On the zip ties, they would hold up fine since they are under the vehicle and don't get exposed to UV rays. I had to use that method on my last CR-V at one point and they never presented a problem.

 

[gw33gp]

Than

I just took your duplicate thread right off the forum.

Been awhile since I've done inner tie rods on a rack... I have a inner tie rod tool in my box. I don't believe I've ever done them on a Ranger.

I shook my front end down a while ago when I replaced my RF wheel bearing. Things seem pretty tight for now. I'm sure i will be doing this very job sometime in the future... thanks for the heads up on the driver side boot. I have a pair of boot clamp pliers... I also have an old pair of diagonal cutters that I took a grinder to to flatten the cutting edge... those have come in handy a time or two over the years when straight line access to the clamp is limited.

Thanks for deleting my duplicate post. I have no idea how that happened.

I did use cutters to crimp the left side, but the angle of the opening was so steep it kept pushing the band back. I had to come up with a way to hold the band in place while squeezed it, while working in that tunnel.

 

[8thTon]

I replaced the inner tie rods this weekend and was surprised to see how easy it was for the most part. I did buy the inner tie rod tool from Harbor Freight which helped a lot. Yes, you can use a pipe wrench also but you have to turn the steering all the way out and I think the force used to break it lose could potentially damage the rack and pinion. I think it is much safer to turn the steering all the way in and use the correct tool to break it loose.

The most difficult thing to do was putting the boots back on. I don't know if it is the same for 2WD but it is difficult for 4WD. I put a little lube on to help slide them place but there is not much access because it is like working in a little cave. It is hard to tell if they are fully seated once you do get them on. The right side is not too bad because there is a little access to the backside. The left side has too much stuff on the back side and very little access.

The boots have three nubs spaced around the rim and I used a dull screw driver to push on them to get the boots in place. I realized afterward that I should have made a tube with the right ID to slip over the boot to push against the nubs. That would probably have made an easy job of it. There is a vent that sticks out on the boots but a little cut out on the tube should be enough to clear that.

My kit came with metal bands to clamp the boots onto the rack and pinion housing. I have a tool to clamp those and it worked fine for the right side because of more access to the backside. The left side did not work so well. I had to improvise with some other tools and a lot of time to get it clamped. Tie straps would have been easier but I don't know how durable they would be over time.

I did the same job and bought the same HF tool. Also had to improvise on the band crimping tools!

Inner Tie Rod Ends - Advice?

I'm doing inner (and outer) tie rod ends. I got Motorcraft inners with the new boot. I stopped by Harbor Freight and picked up the tool. The instructions say to use hand force only, but there is a 1/2" square hole in the end. I'm worried about putting too much force on the rack - should I...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[pjtoledo]

end nippers. put a screwdriver in the bulge.