Inertia switch wires get hot!

[pacnwranger]

The large brown wire (orange?) is the jumper for the inertia connector.

 

[RonD]

The larger post on the starter relay with the battery positive cable is the Power Distribution point for the vehicle, all 12volt power comes from that post
All the wires connected to that post(except battery cable) are fusible links, so thats the "engine fuse box"

The orange and red larger fusible links are for cab ignition switch and fuse box, and alternator, not sure which is which

Diagrams I have for the 1986 Ranger are not specific enough or don't match your wiring

I think the blue ones are for EEC relay and Fuel pump relay, if those 2 blue ones are just one connection then it would be for the EEC relay, and "3rd" blue one would be for fuel pump relay

But in one diagram I have the EEC and fuel pump relays sharing one fusible link


Sorry I thought inertia switch was in the cab in 1986

 

[pacnwranger]

Hi Ron,

Yes, the inertia switch is in the passenger footwell. I disconnected the wires in the engine compartment and that is the jumper you see.

I re-read the thread. Maybe I should hook up the inertia switch once again, start 'er up and let it run for a bit. If the wires are supposed to get hot ("but NOT smoke hot") perhaps I've been overly cautious. If there is a short the fusible links would separate before major damage, right? (I do have a fire extinguisher handy!)

Dave

 

[pacnwranger]

Ron,

One more thing, and this is a 'longshot...'

The only connection I felt unsure about after I swapped engines was an orange wire coming out of the harness very near to the TFI module. The only logical place for it was to a waiting 10mm bolt into the rear of the engine block near the #3 cylinder, but I wasn't sure. Wiring diagrams are unclear.

So this and the previous post are my questions. I'm pretty good with mechanical procedure, but not much experienced with electrical diagnostics. Thanks again for your help!

Dave

 

[RonD]

Should be fine, yes fusible link will separate if amp draw gets too high

Yes, Ford did use Orange wires for ground and also for 12v, lol, so if nothing melted then all is well

 

[pacnwranger]

Thank you! Will give it a go this evening!

 

[pacnwranger]

Update on my '86...

I started it and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Not much changed. The 2 blue wires to the starter relay (1358) were too hot to touch, as were the wires to the inertia switch. The connector for the inertia wires (seen in picture 1357) began to smoke before I shut it all down. Neat old truck but giving me fits!

 

[RonD]

That's a CLEAN 1986 Ranger

You may have a failing fuel pump, there are two

You may be able to test which one

You know how to jump the Fuel Pump relay's green socket so pumps are on

In the frame rail under drivers seat area is the High Pressure fuel pump
Disconnect it's 12volt power or ground

Jump the fuel pump relay and see if the wires are still getting too hot, if not then replace that high pressure pump
If they are still getting too hot then you will need to replace the pump in the tank

 

[pacnwranger]

Thank you. My guess is that it is the in-tank pump. This truck sat for 20 years (!). After the swap I ran fuel through the lines before connecting them. Gas was a little brown at first, then cleared up. I did put in about 5 gallons of new gas before starting the 'new' engine.

I do some testing then tomorrow!

 

[holyford86]

Thank you. My guess is that it is the in-tank pump. This truck sat for 20 years (!). After the swap I ran fuel through the lines before connecting them. Gas was a little brown at first, then cleared up. I did put in about 5 gallons of new gas before starting the 'new' engine.

I do some testing then tomorrow!

every truck I've seen sit for longer than about 5 years has everything inside the tank corroded beyond belief, I'm betting the in tank pump is junk.

 

[pacnwranger]

Long overdue update here... had family from 'out-of-town' (Heck, out of country!) for several weeks.

I replaced both the fuel tank and both pumps. Yes, the inside of the tank was corroded! It now runs well and said wires are barely warm! Thanks so much for the help! (And I had good muscle help getting that bed off and back on again!)

 

[RonD]

Good work

Lucky man to get the pretty ladies to help you

Thanks for updating the thread, it will help someone else down the road

 

[pacnwranger]

Glad to tell of the experience. And, BTW, removing the bed was the easiest thing about this whole process. I think it definitely helped the task.

But now I've discovered a major tranny leak. I suspect front seal. Will search threads...