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Im stupid. Need help.


RustyShackleford94

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I just threw a new clutch kit, new pre-bled slave cylinder, new dry master cylinder, and line on a 95 ranger 2.3, 5 speed 2wd. Ive gravity bled it for 10 minutes, pumped it like brakes for a while. Went through almost a whole big bottle of brake fluid trying to bleed it and i still cant get it to pump up. The fluid shoots out and doesnt look like it has air in it when i pump the pedal and crack the bleeder. Any suggestions?
 


bobbywalter

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If it is full ... Keep pumping
 

bobbywalter

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Dry master.... pre bled slave....




:huh:
 

Roert42

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Master is very difficult to bleed in the truck due to the design. Easiest and most reliable way is to bleed it before installation.

The fluid path is shaped like an upside down N, if that makes sense, so there is a pocket where air likes to get trapped.

I've heard suggestions of pumping the clutch really fast to get the air moving, but didn't have any luck. Had to take the master back out to get it.

Also, I used a self adjusting clutch. When I first put it in the grab point was nearly at the floor, but did disengage completely. After driving for a few weeks the peddle was back in the center of the stroke.
 

RustyShackleford94

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Master is very difficult to bleed in the truck due to the design. Easiest and most reliable way is to bleed it before installation.

The fluid path is shaped like an upside down N, if that makes sense, so there is a pocket where air likes to get trapped.

I've heard suggestions of pumping the clutch really fast to get the air moving, but didn't have any luck. Had to take the master back out to get it.

Also, I used a self adjusting clutch. When I first put it in the grab point was nearly at the floor, but did disengage completely. After driving for a few weeks the peddle was back in the center of the stroke.
Lovely, I’ll pull it and try to bled it. It took me longer to fight that thing into the square hole than it did to pull the transmission lol. How do i know if it’s self adjusting? If it isn’t how do i adjust it?
 

bobbywalter

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It is self adjusting.


I have a few ways to do this.

But pulling it out of the firewall and making the master the lowest point is the easiest.
 

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To bench bleed a brake master I clamp the flange in a vise, put something under it to catch the fluid, put 2 fingers over the holes and SLOWLY push the plunger in with a screwdriver. The air- and fluid- will squirt out as the plunger is depressed and it's easy to tell when the air is gone. Obviously you only have one port to cover but the principle is the same. It might help to put a length of vacuum hose on the bleeder screw and run it into a small container with a little brake fluid in it if you can get at the bleeder screw.
You're not stupid, bleeding hydraulic clutches is a pain in the arse.
 

Roert42

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How do i know if it’s self adjusting? If it isn’t how do i adjust it?

Did you get it from a parts store? Should say somewhere in the part description. Rock auto has S/A and non S/A listings.

Non self adjusting clutch doesn't get a adjusted. You start with the peddle up high and as it wears it grabs closer to the floor.

factory clutch is self adjusting, the non self adjusting clutch is normally a bit less expensive.
 

RustyShackleford94

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It is self adjusting.


I have a few ways to do this.

But pulling it out of the firewall and making the master the lowest point is the easiest.
I like that idea. Just drop it under the truck and pump it with a screwdriver through the whole system from there?
 

RustyShackleford94

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Did you get it from a parts store? Should say somewhere in the part description. Rock auto has S/A and non S/A listings.

Non self adjusting clutch doesn't get a adjusted. You start with the peddle up high and as it wears it grabs closer to the floor.

factory clutch is self adjusting, the non self adjusting clutch is normally a bit less expensive.
Yeah, my brother in law got it. Its his truck, hes just paying me to fix it. Ill have to grab the box and look it up
 

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I've heard suggestions of pumping the clutch really fast to get the air moving, but didn't have any luck. Had to take the master back out to get it.
You have to stomp the pedal down very hard & fast (like violently fast... 10 times in a row over 3-4 seconds time), followed by another pump or two of bleeding it in the more-normal fashion to get the air out after the air has gotten down into the slave cyl.
There is a technique to it, but so far I've always managed to get it to work (probably about 7 or 8 times I've done it). Just make sure the reservoir is full first when you start. (already made that mistake once. lol)

Of course if the MC isn't installed yet, then certainly it'll be easier to bench-bleed it first for sure.
 

RustyShackleford94

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You have to stomp the pedal down very hard & fast (like violently fast... 10 times in a row over 3-4 seconds time), followed by another pump or two of bleeding it in the more-normal fashion to get the air out after the air has gotten down into the slave cyl.
There is a technique to it, but so far I've always managed to get it to work (probably about 7 or 8 times I've done it). Just make sure the reservoir is full first when you start. (already made that mistake once. lol)

Of course if the MC isn't installed yet, then certainly it'll be easier to bench-bleed it first for sure.
Ill give it a try first. Its all together, just not looking forward to removing the master again. Id like to meet the engineer that decided fishing it into a square hole is better than just bolting it to the firewall.
 

Cblev323

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Grab a bleeder from harbor freight they are like $20. They work wonders when your leg wears out
 

RustyShackleford94

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Well i bought a hand pump bleeder and pumped fluid through the bleeder. Still got nothing. Next step is to take it off and get it below the bleeder. I used my sawzall to pump the hell pedal for a while lol.
 

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