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Idle/Won't Start

RumPunch

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So to clarify the heading, the truck will run/idle/rev seemingly fine once started. But to start you have to play with the throttle like a carbureted engine. I have set timing, removed spout connector, 10 degrees advance. Run to temp, shut down, unplugged IAC started (really did not want to) and set base idle to around 700(auto trans). Shut down reconnected. Restarted and rechecked timing. Truck once warm runs good seems responsive with throttle but does not want to start on its own with out working the accelerator. I used an advanced timing light and preset 10 degrees, dialed to 0. I am going to redo that this evening hopefully and set to 10 degree's on pulley see if that makes a difference. Any suggestions appreciated.
 


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alwaysFlOoReD

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If it will start when playing with the throttle then its getting too much fuel.
Perhaps a leaking injector. Try starting with accelerator held to the floor. This is the clear flooded engine procedure. The engine should show no sign of trying to start. If it does, disable spark and try again. Then pull spark plugs looking for a wet one/s.
 

RumPunch

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So cold started today started up pretty decently, studders through temp range once warm runs pretty good across the board double checked timing old school way second light was spot on. White smokes it’s ASS off. Gets worse with temp. No loss of coolant.
 

RumPunch

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@alwaysFlOoReD i didn’t try your suggestion of WOT cause it started on its own, even at temp. Not super happy about it but it did.
 

bobbywalter

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Sounds like shit gas
 

RumPunch

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Ehhhh viable answer got it from the local station, got premium which is probably even worse than regular. Doubt anyone ever buys it. Only has 5 gal in it. Truck has a new tank, sending unit, pump, regulator I blew alcohol through all the lines… go to the local air port get some 100?
 

bobbywalter

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If the gas is good and fuel volume and psi is ok...then the injectors are crappy..

Your valve events can be weak too.

May just be vacuum issues...
 

rusty ol ranger

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Did you pull codes?

Could be a failed coolant sensor or possibly a bad FPR
 

RonD

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Check Fuel pressure regulators(FPR) vacuum hose for fuel, long shot but free to look

Yes, ECT sensor could be the culprit, it sets Choke Mode on start up, or no Choke
ECT sensor won't throw a code unless it doesn't change temp after start up, but incorrect temp can cause hard starts and no code

Check spark plug tips, a darker brown tip can indicate leaking injector, black is leaking intake valve guide seals

If O2 sensor is over 12 years old change it, old O2s cause Richer running and computer saves that data in memory, long term fuel trims, so it effects cold and warm running, and costing you $$$ in MPG as well as starting and running issues
O2 is the only sensor that wears out, uses up the chemical that allows it to detect oxygen in the exhaust
 
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RumPunch

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O2 sensor ordered didn’t come in today. I’m sure it’s ancient. Heads are new. FPR is new (doesn’t mean anything) coolant sensor new also doesn’t mean anything… was hoping it’s O2 sensor…
 

RumPunch

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As far as codes I have no check engine light on, could I still have a code?
 

RonD

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If CEL comes on with key on, bulb and wire are good, and then goes off after start up, and stays off then yes, no active codes
 

RumPunch

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I will double check tonight when I begin the soaking process of the O2 sensor for removal. But when I initially got the truck running it was staying on I noticed the other day it was out. I will verify.
 

RonD

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Codes will clear themselves after a few drive cycles(heat up/cool down is 1 drive cycle), if the reason for the code goes away
If you unhook the battery longer than say 5min, it can also clear older codes, memory codes, and if the problem no longer exists code won't come back
 

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Ehhhh viable answer got it from the local station, got premium which is probably even worse than regular. Doubt anyone ever buys it. Only has 5 gal in it. Truck has a new tank, sending unit, pump, regulator I blew alcohol through all the lines… go to the local air port get some 100?
Not sure I would do the 100 octane fuel. just get some 87 from a busy station. That higher octane will give you troubles with factory timing settings.

If I remember... you bought a set of refurbished injectors when building. Are those still in it?
 

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