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ibeam mods too correct camber after lowering ( w/ pics )

RangerGoolz

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After 3" lowering springs I am thinking of all kinds of ways to correct the negative camber. I love how low it is and must figure something out. So I am looking for input and cautions on the following ideas. How about moving the ibeams? seems like the is room to put new holes to shift the ibeam inward and also by raising the mounting holes equally I would add positive camber. What are your thoughts? Would new holes in the frame for the ibeam hanger be better than drilling one new hole in the hanger itself to move the ibeam eyelet? What else am I effecting by doing this?
 

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Gregin30655

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the question really is how much can you pull the beam inward before you get a bind on the radius arm at rest or travel? They have a fairly forgiving bushing since they dont travel straight up and down. My thought is this would pull on it at rest and cause more wear as it moves and is further out of intended line of performance. If its 3/8-1/2" it should work, and certainly raising their mount will give you positive camber, so in theory I like where you are going with this. Just be sure you dont raise it so much the beam mount barely touches the mount.
 

Gregin30655

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An updates on this? If it worked I am going to do the same thing. I need 1.5-2"" narrower track and a way to set camber better.
 

RangerGoolz

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I did drill new holes for the eyelet and not the bracket. The drivers side was easy the passenger side not so much but I got it. It seemed to help a very small amount. There is not much room to move it. An inch at most. I also had to grind away some of both the brackets in order to not bind. After all done I dont think its worth the work for what you gain. Drop beams is best bet. I may end up with them after all.
 

franklin2

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Don't forget the steering linkage. They do have the height of the linkage set to minimize bumpsteer. So it needs to be raised also. Of course most of these lowered mini trucks don't have much suspension travel anyway. If you have very little suspension travel, your bumpsteer with the minimal, even if it's not in the right place.
 

Gregin30655

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I did drill new holes for the eyelet and not the bracket. The drivers side was easy the passenger side not so much but I got it. It seemed to help a very small amount. There is not much room to move it. An inch at most. I also had to grind away some of both the brackets in order to not bind. After all done I dont think its worth the work for what you gain. Drop beams is best bet. I may end up with them after all.
I already have drop beams, I am wanting to do this to add positive camber and narrow the track width as much as I can. For that I think it may be the ticket.
 

Briansshop

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I already have drop beams, I am wanting to do this to add positive camber and narrow the track width as much as I can. For that I think it may be the ticket.
Narrowing the width is on my mind also. The issues are the tie rods,and the springs hitting the frame. Coilovers maybe.
 

Gregin30655

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Narrowing the width is on my mind also. The issues are the tie rods,and the springs hitting the frame. Coilovers maybe.
I have Ricks tie rod notches going in the frame and then doing the Ricks bag mounts up front too. I love the smooth ride and adjustability with air ride when done right.
 

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I was referring to,if the beams are moved in or shortened the lower spring seat will be too close to the frame and the tie rids will also have to be cut/shortened. Both can be corrected, but just something to remember.
 

Gregin30655

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I was referring to,if the beams are moved in or shortened the lower spring seat will be too close to the frame and the tie rids will also have to be cut/shortened. Both can be corrected, but just something to remember.
Gotcha, I plan on pie cutting my DJM dream beams at the end and adding camber and pulling about 1/2" out of track on each side. I essentially want to be in spec on camber another 2" lower and then have 4-5" to air out the rest of the way. I see what you are saying, if I dont work with the tie rods I'll be toed out a mile and there may not be adjustment w/o narrowing the tie rods too.
 

Briansshop

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I did a "bump steer" kit on my F150 to drop the tie rods lower to keep from hitting the frame.

20171024-183844.jpg
20171024-183859.jpg
 

Jbthrillanilla

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After 3" lowering springs I am thinking of all kinds of ways to correct the negative camber. I love how low it is and must figure something out. So I am looking for input and cautions on the following ideas. How about moving the ibeams? seems like the is room to put new holes to shift the ibeam inward and also by raising the mounting holes equally I would add positive camber. What are your thoughts? Would new holes in the frame for the ibeam hanger be better than drilling one new hole in the hanger itself to move the ibeam eyelet? What else am I effecting by doing this?
 

Jbthrillanilla

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I flipped my upper control arm and it prity much fixed alot of that not so sure if it's drivable look i installed my ball joints upside down basically on my 99 mazda b4000
 

Gregin30655

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I flipped my upper control arm and it prity much fixed alot of that not so sure if it's drivable look i installed my ball joints upside down basically on my 99 mazda b4000
This is really a discussion on how to fix camber on i-beam trucks. Unfortunately there are no upper control arms, I wish there was because you have found a cool solution it sounds like.
 

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I flipped my upper control arm and it prity much fixed alot of that not so sure if it's drivable look i installed my ball joints upside down basically on my 99 mazda b4000
Nissan guys do this trick also. Seems to be a popular mod on the Nissan Forums.
 

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