I need sheetmetal help!

[UpStandingMember]

Actually I need help finding sheetmetal for my 83 Ranger.

I've looked all over on the internet, and can't find what I need. I've looked at LMC, Auto Body Parts, JC Whitney, Raybuck, Certifit, even Googled it, and nothing so far. I've found almost everything but what I need. So I was wondering if any of you guys might have found this before.

Above my windshield, on the corners, my roof has rusted through. It's right above the pillars. I've got duct tape covering the holes right now, but I'd like to find some sheetmetal to weld in place instead. Do any of you know where I can buy some sheetmetal pieces online (brand new), already formed to that shape? I'd rather not try to buy flat sheetmetal and try to shape it myself. And I don't think I'd be able to find like new condition sheetmetal at a junk yard.

 

[klogtruck]

then get ford to order you a roof. just saying, don't think you can get after market, maybe for the newer trucks

 

[straycat]

If it is not real bad you might have to repair it with lead (not bondo) and then sand it and paint it. Most of my buddies do that with that area of their older trucks. It is hard to find anything like that, Bro.

 

[UpStandingMember]

Damn the bad luck!

Alright, thanks, guess I'll have to look into buying some lead.

 

[cody93]

i dont think your gona find a replacement for that, cut the cancer out and form up a replacement with sheetmetal to weld in

 

[UpStandingMember]

Yup, I was thinking about that, just wanted some sheetmetal already curved to that shape. Maybe I can roll some up then stetch weld it.

If that doesn't work I'll try the lead from Eastwood. Not sure how to back the lead patch though. It's double walled on the roof I think.

 

[det107]

....you might have to repair it with lead (not bondo) and "then sand it"......

I thought one uses 'hand grates' to grind down lead.....?

 

[straycat]

I thought one uses 'hand grates' to grind down lead.....?

A grinder/sander works great as my buddies have done it a bunch of times and I watched it. I wear a mask around that crap of course. But there are a few ways to do it like you stated that is another method.

 

[SLR_65]

If patch panels aren't available then I'd guess it isn't an area with a huge problem, so why wouldn't a junk yard have what you need? If it's not rusted out just cut it out with a battery operated dremel or some other such tools. You could sandblast or whatever to get it completely rust free.

Tacking in new metal and leading over it may be as easy though as with a curve and welding, etc. it may be hard to make a patch panel look good and be completely leak free.

 

[Captain Ledd]

If it is not real bad you might have to repair it with lead (not bondo) and then sand it and paint it. Most of my buddies do that with that area of their older trucks. It is hard to find anything like that, Bro.

For the love of god DON'T sand it.

A grinder/sander works great as my buddies have done it a bunch of times and I watched it. I wear a mask around that crap of course. But there are a few ways to do it like you stated that is another method.

You're buddies are idiots. Lead will even get absorbed through your skin, not to mention mucous membranes, etc. Just because you and your buddies do it and you watched it doesn't mean they're competent working with the stuff.

I watched a guy juggling chainsaws before, nothing happened, must be safe right?

I thought one uses 'hand grates' to grind down lead.....?

I've always been told a file is what you use, but they're probably similar.

To the OP:

You have 2 options really.

1. Trot out to your local hardware store and get a flat sheet of sheetmetal. Go ahead and get some that is just thicker than you think you'll need.

Get a body hammer and dolly kit, like even at Harbor Freight. Yes it's cheap junk that won't last long, but it's not like you're going to be doing professional body work right?

You can clamp the dolly's in a vice and work the sheet metal over until it's nice and contoured to match your roof (or at least until you're satisfied with it).

Cut out the rusted area on your cab roof

Cut the freshly formed replacement piece to fit nicely inside the cut hole you just made

Use a magnet (or several) to hold it in place while you tack the edges

remove the magnets

Keep tacking the edges moving all around the workpiece as to not build up too much heat in one spot. It will warp the sheetmetal. Taking breaks is a good idea.

Grind down the spot welds nice and smooth

Cover and sand with a thin layer of bondo and repaint.



option 2: (the cheap way)

Trot out to your local hardware store and buy a can of Great Stuff expanding foam

Cut out ONLY the areas of rust from your roof

Fill hole with foam

Cut off foam that came out of the hole

Cover and sand with several layers of Bondo (not too thick or it will crack, many thin layers is the key)

Sand until your satisfied and repaint.




I know I said you have 2 options but it's really 3. Find a state that doesn't use salt and do a cab swap. But what kind of fun is that?

 

[mp3deviant721]

For the love of god DON'T sand it.



You're buddies are idiots. Lead will even get absorbed through your skin, not to mention mucous membranes, etc. Just because you and your buddies do it and you watched it doesn't mean they're competent working with the stuff.

I watched a guy juggling chainsaws before, nothing happened, must be safe right?



I've always been told a file is what you use, but they're probably similar.

To the OP:

You have 2 options really.

1. Trot out to your local hardware store and get a flat sheet of sheetmetal. Go ahead and get some that is just thicker than you think you'll need.

Get a body hammer and dolly kit, like even at Harbor Freight. Yes it's cheap junk that won't last long, but it's not like you're going to be doing professional body work right?

You can clamp the dolly's in a vice and work the sheet metal over until it's nice and contoured to match your roof (or at least until you're satisfied with it).

Cut out the rusted area on your cab roof

Cut the freshly formed replacement piece to fit nicely inside the cut hole you just made

Use a magnet (or several) to hold it in place while you tack the edges

remove the magnets

Keep tacking the edges moving all around the workpiece as to not build up too much heat in one spot. It will warp the sheetmetal. Taking breaks is a good idea.

Grind down the spot welds nice and smooth

Cover and sand with a thin layer of bondo and repaint.



option 2: (the cheap way)

Trot out to your local hardware store and buy a can of Great Stuff expanding foam

Cut out ONLY the areas of rust from your roof

Fill hole with foam

Cut off foam that came out of the hole

Cover and sand with several layers of Bondo (not too thick or it will crack, many thin layers is the key)

Sand until your satisfied and repaint.




I know I said you have 2 options but it's really 3. Find a state that doesn't use salt and do a cab swap. But what kind of fun is that?

+1

 

[straycat]

For the love of god DON'T sand it.



You're buddies are idiots. Lead will even get absorbed through your skin, not to mention mucous membranes, etc. Just because you and your buddies do it and you watched it doesn't mean they're competent working with the stuff.

I watched a guy juggling chainsaws before, nothing happened, must be safe right?



I've always been told a file is what you use, but they're probably similar.

To the OP:

You have 2 options really.

1. Trot out to your local hardware store and get a flat sheet of sheetmetal. Go ahead and get some that is just thicker than you think you'll need.

Get a body hammer and dolly kit, like even at Harbor Freight. Yes it's cheap junk that won't last long, but it's not like you're going to be doing professional body work right?

You can clamp the dolly's in a vice and work the sheet metal over until it's nice and contoured to match your roof (or at least until you're satisfied with it).

Cut out the rusted area on your cab roof

Cut the freshly formed replacement piece to fit nicely inside the cut hole you just made

Use a magnet (or several) to hold it in place while you tack the edges

remove the magnets

Keep tacking the edges moving all around the workpiece as to not build up too much heat in one spot. It will warp the sheetmetal. Taking breaks is a good idea.

Grind down the spot welds nice and smooth

Cover and sand with a thin layer of bondo and repaint.



option 2: (the cheap way)

Trot out to your local hardware store and buy a can of Great Stuff expanding foam

Cut out ONLY the areas of rust from your roof

Fill hole with foam

Cut off foam that came out of the hole

Cover and sand with several layers of Bondo (not too thick or it will crack, many thin layers is the key)

Sand until your satisfied and repaint.




I know I said you have 2 options but it's really 3. Find a state that doesn't use salt and do a cab swap. But what kind of fun is that?

You can sand it, Bro. You can grind it as well. My buddies have been doing it for over 30 years. They are always protected as I stated about the mask. Log sleeves, rubber gloves. They have never been harmed by it and they all are older then me!!! Lead has been used in auto repair for years, Bro. Don'e worry about it!!! lol

 

[killj0y]

Lead is a chemical nerve agent, just because they have been fine and arguably lucky, does not mean it should be done that way...There is a right way to do things and a wrong way, and not paying attention to not only health but environmental hazards (yes I'm sure that stuff gets everywhere while sanding/grinding thus leaching into the ground!) can have serious repercussions for both you and anyone around including neighbors shuold that stuff end up leaching into the environment. Do you dump your antifreeze, oil, and other fluids down the drain too? Sheesh...

 

[Captain Ledd]

You can sand it, Bro. You can grind it as well. My buddies have been doing it for over 30 years. They are always protected as I stated about the mask. Log sleeves, rubber gloves. They have never been harmed by it and they all are older then me!!! Lead has been used in auto repair for years, Bro. Don'e worry about it!!! lol

Not worry about sending massive amounts of lead dust into the air? Trust me bro, it get's E-V-E-R-Y-W-H-E-R-E. So how do they protect their tools? workbenches? work area? other people in the building that AREN'T in a chemical suit? how spiffy is their air filtration system? I certainly hope it's not a fan pointed toward outside. They're an accident waiting to happen.

Yes, you CAN sand it and you CAN grind it, neither of which are good ideas. Especially since filing it is the proper way to do it. Their lack of patience will catch up to them.

Just because your friends do it doesn't mean it's right or safe. To add to that point, "well my buddies do it and they're old!" is justification for nothing.

You're so convinced it's no big deal and harmless, PM me their address so I can report them to the EPA.

 

[straycat]

Body shops have been doing this for years.....paint booths are made for more than just painting.... So...go tell all the health agencies everywhere about it then why don't you??? Gee Whiz!!!