I need just a little more caster...

[rang-a-stang]

86, 4WD. Previous owner installed 2" coil spacer in the front. I added Tuff Country beam drop brackets and now have my toe and camber spot on. Caster is .1" negative. Alignment tech said to fix the caster, I would need to drop the radius arm bracket the same that the beams dropped.
1) I have no idea how much the drop brackets dropped my bracket but it does not look like much
2) Can I lower the bracket by redrilling the side holes on the bracket and put a slight spacer between the bracket and the chassis?

I feel like I can lower the bracket a 1/2" or so, not comprimise it's strength and get the caster almost positive. No?

 

[Curious Hound]

Your beam drop brackets probably lowered the beams more than 1/2". I'm guessing at least 2". Can you post pictures of what your axle beam brackets look like and also your radius arm mounts as they are now?

I'm not a fan of the kits that just lower the OEM brackets. It's not great engineering. But it does work if you don't beat the truck hard.

 

[tw205]

Skyjacker makes a nice set of radius arm drop brackets. They will drop 3” to 4”. They run about $150. Bolt on.

 

[Curious Hound]

Skyjacker makes a nice set of radius arm drop brackets. They will drop 3” to 4”. They run about $150. Bolt on.

Did you mean to say axle beam drop brackets? Skyjacker's radius arm brackets mount further aft for use with the extended radius arms. But they stay tucked up against the frame. Unless they came out with a new product.

 

[tw205]

The brackets I’m referencing drop the radius arm cross member. They usually come with a lift kit to help with the caster angle

 

[scotts90ranger]

The real question is does it drive bad as it is? Fortunately for me I have a Dana 35 so I have the fully adjustable sleeves for the top balljoint but I've never measured any of my angles, set the camber and put as much caster in as I could without the balljoint binding... it actually drives decently and tire wear is pretty good...

 

[rang-a-stang]

Your beam drop brackets probably lowered the beams more than 1/2". I'm guessing at least 2". Can you post pictures of what your axle beam brackets look like and also your radius arm mounts as they are now?

I'm not a fan of the kits that just lower the OEM brackets. It's not great engineering. But it does work if you don't beat the truck hard.

Even if it does not drop them the same amount, a little positive caster is better than none. Here are my brackets.
Link to the Kit I bought

On the front bracket, it's 8.5" from bottom of the chassis to the center of the I-Beam bolt (like a smarty pants, I already tossed my factory front bracket so I cannot measure it). I don't really know what to measure for the rear bracket but I do still have the stock bracket handy.

Skyjacker makes a nice set of radius arm drop brackets. They will drop 3” to 4”. They run about $150. Bolt on.

Did you mean to say axle beam drop brackets? Skyjacker's radius arm brackets mount further aft for use with the extended radius arms. But they stay tucked up against the frame. Unless they came out with a new product.

The brackets I’m referencing drop the radius arm cross member. They usually come with a lift kit to help with the caster angle

Copy that. I don't think I need that much drop. Maybe I do? Maybe I just save up for a few months and just get extended radius arms and the drop bracket? If I do, can I keep my front sway bar (it mounts to the radius arm bracket...)

The real question is does it drive bad as it is? Fortunately for me I have a Dana 35 so I have the fully adjustable sleeves for the top balljoint but I've never measured any of my angles, set the camber and put as much caster in as I could without the balljoint binding... it actually drives decently and tire wear is pretty good...

It's not really terrible. It also has a slight dead spot in the steering gear when going straight so no caster plus dead spot makes it a little floatie but it's not horrendous. If there is a cheap/easy way to get some caster I will do it but I don't want to drop >$150 on it right now if so I may just let it ride.

 

[Curious Hound]

For comparison, here is a picture of my drop bracket for the driver side axle beam. Bracket on passenger side. This is for a 6" lift and the pivot bolt is about 12 1/4" below the frame.

 

[tw205]

Are your new tuff country brackets drop brackets or just camber adjustable brackets? You can get the fully adjustable sleeves for the upper ball joint for the Dana 28 but, If you only need a little more caster, bronco graveyard has some adjustable radius arm bushings that add up to 1 1/4 degree. $12 per arm. Ignore the 87 to 97 it’s a misprint. It’s 83 to 97

1987-97 Ford Bronco, ll Ranger Adjustable Radius Arm Bushing-Broncograveyard.com

Adjustable eccentric bushing provides up to 1-1/4° of caster adjustmentbr Order 1 per wheel

shop.broncograveyard.com

Your swaybar should be good to go until you get up to 5” or 6” of lift then you’d need drop brackets for the frame mount.

My 85 BII with skyjacker 6” lift. Has skyjacker swaybar drop brackets and FA600 drop pitman arm. Sporting a Dana 35.

 

[rang-a-stang]

I never responded to these. Sorry for leaving you guys hanging.

12.25" for a 6" left makes PERFECT sense! If my bracket is 8.5" and for 2", than I would assume stock is probably about 6".

Our brackets are drop brackets AND camber adjust. They do drop the arm pivot and have a camber adjust cam built in. Our sway bar is significantly different than yours. Ours is embedded in the radius arm bracket (I will get a picture later tonight). All that clean shiney black and red sure looks nice!!!

Oh (edit), I think I will order a set of those bushings!! Those may be EXACTLY what we need! My son NAILED curb and we just swapped his 2" lift spacers for Skyjacker 2" lift springs and he is going to need another alignment.
More info here: Broken spacer thread

 

[bobbywalter]

You can run f150 or e series arms....they are different...and relocate the brackets rearward on the frame. I ran like that for allot of years .


There are offset radius arm bushings....but they suck

 

[rang-a-stang]

You can run f150 or e series arms....they are different...and relocate the brackets rearward on the frame. I ran like that for allot of years .


There are offset radius arm bushings....but they suck

Hm. This sounds doable. are there any write ups on it? I assume the arm bolts to the beam and I would need the arm brackets off the donor...? How far back does it move them? I assume i would have to swap my sway bar to one of the front?
***************************************************************
Here is our sway bar.

Can/should we go grab one from a wrecking yard that mounts to the frame at the front? Like tw205's?

 

[bobbywalter]

I Dont know if there are any pictures of my rig set up that way.....it was the 90s


I the early 2000s there were some members that I helped set up.

But I don't remember their board names or where they are.

 

[rang-a-stang]

Okie dokie. I appreciate it. I have a few other fish to fry but will keep it in mind!

 

[bobbywalter]

You have to loosen or remove the body mount and it ends up going over the radius arm bracket....

You rivots have to be popped.

Not hard