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I CANNOT get my clutch to bleed out properly!

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Ugh! After all of my work on the clutch and trans for my newly acquired Ford Ranger, I am having one hell of a time bleeding the clutch out. I have tried having someone in the driver's seat pump the clutch pedal as I open and close the bleeder. I have also tried gravity bleeding while tapping the clutch line. I am getting extremely frustrated. Just wondering if I am doing something wrong, or maybe I have a defective part? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

And yes, I read the technical write up on how to bleed a clutch.
 


swamprat

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did you bench bleed it? If not or even if you did this might help. Remove the screws holding the clutch master on. Pop off the plunger rod from the clutch pedal. Tilt the clutch master bottom up higher than plunger. tap on line. also open the bleed valve and keep pouring fluid in res. Tighten bleed screw and reinstall clutch master and try it out. I didnt bench bleed my 94 ranger last night and tried this method tonight and have a good pedal.
 

pbilt

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that sounds like a lot more work then needs to be done every time i bleed a clutch i use a big suringe you can get one at walmart or any parts store there called master mixers but take the hose of the resivor and plug the suringe in the hose. fill the suringe open the bleeder valve and let it bench bleed after 2 fills with fluid top it off and put the plunger in the suringe and push it down 3/4 the way then close the bleeder valve and when you pull up on the plunger it sucks the extra trapped air out the top i pump the plunger a few times to blast as much fluid down as i can
 
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
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LT265/75/R16
that sounds like a lot more work then needs to be done every time i bleed a clutch i use a big suringe you can get one at walmart or any parts store there called master mixers but take the hose of the resivor and plug the suringe in the hose. fill the suringe open the bleeder valve and let it bench bleed after 2 fills with fluid top it off and put the plunger in the suringe and push it down 3/4 the way then close the bleeder valve and when you pull up on the plunger it sucks the extra trapped air out the top i pump the plunger a few times to blast as much fluid down as i can
I'm a little confused about this? Looks like a giant run on sentence

Actually, I watched that video yesterday before I bled it. Can you use a mighty vac with a hydraulic clutch system?
 

hondaxr650

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I'm a little confused about this? Looks like a giant run on sentence

Actually, I watched that video yesterday before I bled it. Can you use a mighty vac with a hydraulic clutch system?
You can actually bleed them from the top with a vacuum pump or vacuum brake bleeder. I have a modified cap with a fitting on it that I use to pull a vacuum on the reservoir and it pulls the air out the top. I put a vacuum on it for a minute or so, then pump the pedal a few times and do it again. Works every time for me.
 
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90B24wd

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I had the same problem this past week. Went through 2 new clutch masters. I bench bled both and still could not get it to bleed properly. When I would opened the bleeder nut, air & brake fluid flow out. When nut is tighten I would still not get any pressure. Problem was on the quick connection on the slave side. The teflon valve was stuck open not letting pressure to build up. (how I found out that the valve was stuck was that I went through my collection of 10 used clutch slaves and noticed that 1 was stucked open, used a small screw driver to feel if the new one was open and it was) Not wanting to unbolt the trans to fix the slave (slave is new just had it sitting for a while) I unbolted the driveshaft at the trans, put it in first gear pumped clutch, 2nd gear pumped clutch, ect. As I kept doing it I would feel a little pressure. I did it to the point that I was able to bolt up the driveshaft and take my Bronco for a spin. The clutch would release at the very bottom at first. I would drive around, stop & bleed and added fluid. Now every thing is OK.
 
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