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I bought a High Rider...


85_Ranger4x4

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IIRC the connector housing for a second gen wiper motor is similar to a connector housing on the inner fender of a first gen.

I went the other way on mine, robbed the housing from a second gen wiper motor (I think) to do something, I don't remember if it was cruise or my tail light jumper pigtail.
 


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Shran

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Yeah that sounds right. Cruise and wipers are rectangular plugs on a 1st gen... 2nd gen has a round 4 pin wiper plug and a 6? pin rectangular plug. The cruise deal is no problem, it'll plug right in, I just need to either extend the wires a bit or move the modulator back. Extending the wires is probably the route I'll go, I may go clip a harness section at the junkyard.
 

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I was thinking if you had a spare first gen harness laying around you could salvage the connector from that to plug in to you newer wiper motor.
 

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OK, this is one of the last things I needed to document - transfer cases. @Jim Oaks

The first two pictures include four of the five (six?) t-cases offered in RBVs from 1983 to 1997. Missing is the BW-1354 manual shift (I don't have a loose one at the moment) and the BW-1350 High Rider manual shift (I assume it exists and I'm 99% sure I had one at one point.)

Some interesting notes:
Shift motors are interchangeable
Yokes/Flanges from 1350 t-cases will fit 1354s and vice versa
1350 shifters have several variants depending on what transmission was in front of them - the arm attached to the t-case is also available in at least two lengths
Bolts that attach t-case to trans can be either standard or metric. '83 to 87 or so have standard 3/8 bolts and the t-case is tapped for those, later trucks have metric ones




Note the differences in the front output snout length between the 1350 HR and 1354:


1350 t-cases have several flanges available but most are small pattern flat flange (1310 and 1210 flange yokes will bolt onto this) as well as the 1210 CV style yoke found on the rear in short wheelbase trucks (short box single cab 4x4 and Bronco II.) The front of the High Rider t-case is also a 1210 CV yoke.

The 1210 style yokes are just a hair under 3" wide.


1354 t-cases have 1310 series u-joints, flange is just about 3-3/4" wide
 

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OK, this is one of the last things I needed to document - transfer cases. @Jim Oaks

The first two pictures include four of the five (six?) t-cases offered in RBVs from 1983 to 1997. Missing is the BW-1354 manual shift (I don't have a loose one at the moment) and the BW-1350 High Rider manual shift (I assume it exists and I'm 99% sure I had one at one point.)

Some interesting notes:
Shift motors are interchangeable
Yokes/Flanges from 1350 t-cases will fit 1354s and vice versa
1350 shifters have several variants depending on what transmission was in front of them - the arm attached to the t-case is also available in at least two lengths
Bolts that attach t-case to trans can be either standard or metric. '83 to 87 or so have standard 3/8 bolts and the t-case is tapped for those, later trucks have metric ones




Note the differences in the front output snout length between the 1350 HR and 1354:


1350 t-cases have several flanges available but most are small pattern flat flange (1310 and 1210 flange yokes will bolt onto this) as well as the 1210 CV style yoke found on the rear in short wheelbase trucks (short box single cab 4x4 and Bronco II.) The front of the High Rider t-case is also a 1210 CV yoke.

The 1210 style yokes are just a hair under 3" wide.


1354 t-cases have 1310 series u-joints, flange is just about 3-3/4" wide
I can confirm that the 13-50 high rider manual T-case exists. I have 2 in my garage.
 

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Jim Oaks

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I added this to:

 

Shran

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I think sometime, when I have time, I'm going to pull my High Rider t-case apart and see if I can put the front output shaft assembly into a normal manual shift 1350 case so that I end up with a manual shift HR t-case. It appears that the front halves are very similar, I wouldn't be surprised if they're identical and just have different output shafts installed. For my purposes, the electric shift HR t-case is useless, but I definitely have a home for it if I could shift it manually.
 

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I think sometime, when I have time, I'm going to pull my High Rider t-case apart and see if I can put the front output shaft assembly into a normal manual shift 1350 case so that I end up with a manual shift HR t-case. It appears that the front halves are very similar, I wouldn't be surprised if they're identical and just have different output shafts installed. For my purposes, the electric shift HR t-case is useless, but I definitely have a home for it if I could shift it manually.
I’ve disassembled dozens of these cases. The 13-50 STX and regular cases are the same. You can convert a regular manual to a STX case, no problem.
 

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@Shran have you pulled the carpet back to look for a build sheet for the truck? Curious if it would be noted on it that its a High Rider like they say for GTs. Id also recommend picking up a deluxe Marti report for it and that will give you all kinds of info on the truck.

Would look something like this:

FB_IMG_1581990273710.jpg
 
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Shran

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I could do a Marti report with the VIN number, unfortunately the build sheet is long gone. My buddy replaced the carpet with vinyl flooring and discarded the build sheet with the carpet. Oh well.
 

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Since my last post, I've gotten quite a bit done.

- rear axle swapped (was a 7.5, 3.73LS) and now has a drum brake 8.8 3.73LS that came out of my Explorer
- parking brake works
- brakes bled and functional (fun, had to dig and clean up used bleeders to make the fronts work)
- rear shocks installed
- gas tank straps shortened, tank is in a good location
- interior is mostly together, need to order carpet, fill in some holes in the floor, probably paint or coat the floor with something
- clutch push rod is now longer and adjustable length - necessary with firewall mods, unknown slave and pedals made the pushrod too short
- doors have been converted to crank windows, manual locks and I ordered new door panels for it that should be here today
- removed all traces of PW/PL wiring and hardware, cleaned out the insides of the doors
- oil filter adapter O rings replaced
- swapped out O2 sensor, plug was wrong type
- exhaust build is in progress, muffler should be here today

Lots of hours here. The clutch push rod was particularly annoying. It's length was such that it would not fully engage the clutch switch nor would it fully disengage the clutch and ironically it was the longest one I could find in my parts stash. I had an F150 master cylinder that was threaded and adjustable length so I cut and threaded a Ranger one and it works great now.

Assuming my muffler gets here today like it's supposed to, I can get the exhaust done and drive it outside under its own power.

At that point, there is a bunch of little mechanical things to finish up but it'll be on to cosmetic stuff after that.
 

Shran

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I drove it outside! And back in!






Muffler did come in so I got it all welded up, pretty easy job and boy does it sound good.


Here's the Coverlay door panels I ordered. I am pretty happy with the passenger side one. The driver's side is going to be returned. I'm guessing these are vacuum molded and the excess trimmed off - well they trimmed off way too much on the top in one spot. It doesn't sit flush with the door and there is a big gap. A little disappointing but I'll get it taken care of. They mount to the door with trim clips that go through the holes. I kinda like this style better than the original... you do see the fasteners but it in theory would keep the door panel a little tighter against the door.







Anyways I am getting closer. I have a coolant leak to fix, dang me for reusing an old water pump. It's dripping a lot out of the weep hole. I also need to do a small lift in the front for sure, I have some horrendous tire rubbage but I kinda expected that with stock height springs and 31's.
 

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Finally got around to replacing the water pump last Thursday, filled it full of coolant today and let it run outside for a while. Leak fixed.

Also bolted the bed down temporarily, installed nuts on my leaf spring bolts, and put some lift pucks under my front springs. I think that'll fix my tire rubbing for now.

Next on the list is mounting the front bumper and a temporary rear license plate holder so that I can drive it to the alignment shop.
 


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