• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

I bought a High Rider...


85_Ranger4x4

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
Article Contributor
V8 Engine Swap
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
25,493
Reaction score
5,434
Points
113
Location
SW Iowa
Vehicle Year
1985
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
Transmission
Manual
Looks good!

I learned when I did my floor pan that whatever steel Ford used to build cabs... ain't fun to weld patches in.

My chinesium replacement pan was thicker and easier to work with lol.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 7FA902352B4C01: April 5th, 2021

Shran

Junk Collector
Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
V8 Engine Swap
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
5,829
Reaction score
1,176
Points
113
Location
Rapid City SD
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
What are you using to weld on your body panels, MIG or TIG?
MIG, with gas, .025 wire. I have a TIG welder but I'm not proficient enough with it to try something like this - maybe someday.

Looks good!

I learned when I did my floor pan that whatever steel Ford used to build cabs... ain't fun to weld patches in.

My chinesium replacement pan was thicker and easier to work with lol.
Ha, yeah, agreed. The irony here is that I'm using a piece of a 70's Lincoln hood that I found in the woods for patch material! That hood provided me with a lot of nice flat material over the years.
 

BlackBII

Ranger Custom
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
7,624
Reaction score
378
Points
83
Location
UT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
5
Tire Size
33
Looks good!

I'll second the difficulty in welding these cabs; the metal is crazy thin. I pulled a few dents in my cab right behind the door and the studs would just tear a hole in the steel when using the slide hammer, it was super frustrating. And then welding up the hole with my mig required adding some small pieces of steel behind the panel so that the hole would stop getting bigger. Like welding a piece of paper.
 

ericbphoto

I didn't do it.
Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
8,170
Reaction score
4,661
Points
113
Age
56
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.

AllanD

TRS Technical Staff
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 1, 2001
Messages
7,899
Reaction score
118
Points
63
Age
59
Location
East-Central Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
1987... sorta
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
'93 4.0
Transmission
Manual
The "High rider" package is really nothing special, it isn't really a "lift kit"but it is a bit more than a "leveling kit" it was actually a zero cost option add on to an STX package truck
 

Shran

Junk Collector
Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
V8 Engine Swap
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
5,829
Reaction score
1,176
Points
113
Location
Rapid City SD
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
Had a 50+ degree day yesterday so I took advantage and did a bunch of sanding outside. The roof is mostly done and I started on the B pillars as well. I found some surprises - namely, 10 layers of paint and more holes in the roof. I am pretty sure this truck had a visor on it at one point, which caused the big rust hole... there are 5 screw holes on the other side in the same spot, although not rusted through that I can see, thank god. I think it also had lights or something attached to the roof as well - two more pairs of holes on both sides. This was all covered up by a very thick layer of bondo. There was also a lot of surface rust under the first layer of primer - I think somebody used the old "paint sticks better to rust" theory.

Fortunately the back wall of the cab and and the door jambs don't have that much paint so it will be easier going. I may just scuff these and prime. I probably wouldn't have gone to the extreme of taking the roof and pillars down to bare metal but I was having chemical reaction issues with the passenger door and did that with it, and I'm kinda glad I did it on the roof too so that I found the holes and have a chance to fix them now.

As you can see - bare metal, primer, base, base, clear, primer, base, clear, primer, base, clear :bad: Too much!


And surface rust underneath


Screw holes in the roof


I tried to just fill in one hole and of course it got bigger. I can't get in there with my copper backer strip so I screwed some bolts into the holes, cut them off, used a body hammer to dimple them down a bit and welded them in place, then ground the weld somewhat smooth and covered with filler.



No more holes on this side


Still have a long ways to go on the cab. Hopefully I will have a few more nice days in the near future so I can finish sanding outside. It's really nice to just let the wind take the dust away instead of sweeping.

Remember, safety first, wear your seat belts
 

Shran

Junk Collector
Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
V8 Engine Swap
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
5,829
Reaction score
1,176
Points
113
Location
Rapid City SD
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
Had another nice day last Sunday and was able to pull it outside for more sanding. I just can't stop finding more dents... and rust... sigh.

This one I knew about. It happened when the truck got wrecked previously, when the frame bent, it forced the box into the cab. My buddy pulled it partways out with big screws and then put a ton of bondo over it. I almost left it alone but found layers of paint embedded in the bondo...it was just not very well done. I got it somewhat straight with a stud welder. Instead of 3/8" of mud, it's got like 1/8" at most. I had to weld a bunch of screw holes shut here too.



This one, I was not aware of until I pulled the window out and saw a chunk of pink stuff sticking out under the rubber seal. It was pretty deep and had at least 1/2" of mud in it and rust underneath (shocker I know.) I got it pulled out and just a light coat of filler was necessary.


Currently working on smoothing out those two spots, another hole rusted through the roof on the driver's side and the cowl... someone removed one of the bars in the cowl vent so I'm fixing that. I really thought about swapping on a 2nd gen cowl to prevent leaves from falling through but that would be a pretty extensive project, and not one that I want to attempt right now.
 

BlackBII

Ranger Custom
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
7,624
Reaction score
378
Points
83
Location
UT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
5
Tire Size
33
The thinner the bondo the better! It's looking good man.

It's amazing how many dents you find once you start looking to fix them. They are never ending these trucks from 1. Being 30 years old, and 2. Being used as work/farm trucks. I got a ton of practice fixing them when I did mine, which is fine; more skills is always better!
 

Shran

Junk Collector
Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
V8 Engine Swap
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
5,829
Reaction score
1,176
Points
113
Location
Rapid City SD
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
The thinner the bondo the better! It's looking good man.

It's amazing how many dents you find once you start looking to fix them. They are never ending these trucks from 1. Being 30 years old, and 2. Being used as work/farm trucks. I got a ton of practice fixing them when I did mine, which is fine; more skills is always better!
Thanks! Yeah, it's a battle. I'm getting better with the stud welder... I tried it on a couple other projects and ripped the studs out, leaving holes in the material. That scared me away from using it but on this I had no better options...only pulled out one, out of like 50. Have to be strategic with stud placement too.

I'm getting kinda antsy to paint the cab and assemble my huge pile of parts, and then start on the box. I found some cracks in the fiberglass, guess I'll have to add fiberglass repairs to my arsenal of skills.
 


Top