Howdy, I’m a newbie starting to work on my 87 ranger 2.9.

[Dawn]

hello all!

long sad story: Five years ago I got this Ranger and instantly I was in love with it. Shortly after I got it, it started to overheat. I brought it to a local NAPA and the owner started replacing parts instead of diagnosing (heck, I didn’t know the guy was a shyster. When he said something needed to be replaced I was like OK.He said it would fix the problem) So finally he told me he had it fixed and I got it home and it was still overheating and now it was dumping transmission fluid everywhere. So the guy got me good for about 1500 bucks and i never went back. My friend told me that she could help me do it so OK, I know my way around a wrench some. so long story sadder, we took the whole engine apart, took the whole transmission part, it’s all in boxes for 2+ years and I finally got it back into my yard. there was a lot of rust in the cab because the person before me had a leak and didn’t take care of it really rusted out the driver side floor all the way under the seat and I’ve already got a 97 Ranger lined up to cut the whole drivers side bottom out to replace mine. My issue is at is time that the assembly that attaches the wheel hub to the body needs to be cut out and replaced. I don’t know what the hell the name of this piece is (I do have the replacement for it which was bought couple years agoj I just need a little bit of guidance since I don’t wanna go under there willy-nilly and do more damage than I’m trying to fix. I gather I need to grind off the rivets, then knock out the back end of them, (I don’t even know if it’s really attached with the old weld anymore). then clean it up and grind the powder coat off of the new part to get it all prepared for the welder. I’ll post a picture of what I’m talking about. I looked for quite a long time on the web to see if I can find the name of this part so I didn’t look like an idiot on this forum but that’s the way it goes. I’m a newbie and I just don’t know. I do have a Haynes manual but it’s at my friend‘s house and I have to use that term loosely right now. I’m going to get another one. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.

 

[tw205]

Spring bucket. Yes grind off the rivets, knock em out of the hole, drill the holes to larger 1/2” and bolt the new ones on with grade 8 hardware.

 

[Bronco ii Man]

Simple enough!!

 

[97RangerXLT]

If you have the entire 97 truck for parts and both trucks are 2wd or both 4wd, consider putting the spindle/ knuckle/ and entire front brake system on your 87. That is a great upgrade to dual piston calipers and getting rid of the bar style caliper mounts. The spindle and hub assembly should bolt on with no issues.

If ithey are both 4wd, take some time and put the d35 front end from the 97 on your truck. If gear ratios are different. Grab the rear axle as well.

 

[dvdswan]

Welcome to the site. More pictures of the truck please.

 

[pjtoledo]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but when you remove that part/spring bucket , you will find massive rust damage to the frame.

before you start removing stuff, get a hammer and start banging on the frame in that area to see how much of it falls off. then reevaluate your plans.

 

[superj]

welcome to the site!!!

 

[rumblecloud]

hello all!
I do have a Haynes manual but it’s at my friend‘s house and I have to use that term loosely right now. I’m going to get another one. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.

Are you going to get a new manual or a new friend?
I'd prolly do both.

Welcome to TRS. You sound like a pretty enterprising person. I don't think I would ever take on a project like this.
Folks here are really helpful. Good luck with your project and please do post more pics of your progress

 

[Dawn]

Are you going to get a new manual or a new friend?
I'd prolly do both.

Welcome to TRS. You sound like a pretty enterprising person. I don't think I would ever take on a project like this.
Folks here are really helpful. Good luck with your project and please do post more pics of your progress

Thank you! I will. Im pretty excited about it. Probably going to just suck it up and get the manual. A penny saved is a penny…. I can put into the truck!!!! And honestly, I have a mechanic from Poor Man’s Auto looking for a rebuilt engine and tranny. Fixing those 2 items is way above of my payscale. I’m looking also. I wish I could do it but….

 

[Dawn]

welcome to the site!!!

Thank you!!! I perused this site a lot a few years when I started this fiasco.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So like has been said, that’s the coil bucket. I’ve replaced them, just drill the holes to 1/2” and bolt with grade 8, no welding required. The frame may or may not be badly rusted behind it, so far the ones I’ve done were not bad enough to warrant repair/replacement, but I have taken to putting marine grease between the parts and filling the one pocket with grease to limit further rusting. The upgrade of course is to weld on a mount to replace the coil with a coil over shock, but since you already have the bracket and plenty of other things to work on, I probably wouldn’t worry too much.

Cab floors may be different between 87 and 97.

What are your goals with this truck? Like are you just trying to restore it to factory specs? Lift it? Lower it? Upgrade it? This is the time to start working towards whatever goal you have, it’s already apart and you’re trying to put it back together. My 88 I’m trying to upgrade a bunch of stuff but make it appear stock. It’s not goin to be the sleeper my green Ranger will be, but upgraded beyond what was original. Extended control arms (ride quality and suspension flex), engine and transmission mods (improved performance means less heat generated for the transmission, improved cooling and fuel efficiency, etc), upgraded suspension (Explorer leaf springs to eliminate sag along with help control body roll with stiffer springs and a front lift coil to level it again), etc.

My Haynes manuals are about only used for torque specs. Chilton (if you can find one) is better, factory shop manuals are the best, they tell you how the factory did it.

 

[Dawn]

Spring bucket. Yes grind off the rivets, knock em out of the hole, drill the holes to larger 1/2” and bolt the new ones on with grade 8 hardware.

Thanks very much. The spring bucket came with hardware. And have it welded?

 

[Dawn]

So like has been said, that’s the coil bucket. I’ve replaced them, just drill the holes to 1/2” and bolt with grade 8, no welding required. The frame may or may not be badly rusted behind it, so far the ones I’ve done were not bad enough to warrant repair/replacement, but I have taken to putting marine grease between the parts and filling the one pocket with grease to limit further rusting. The upgrade of course is to weld on a mount to replace the coil with a coil over shock, but since you already have the bracket and plenty of other things to work on, I probably wouldn’t worry too much.

Cab floors may be different between 87 and 97.

What are your goals with this truck? Like are you just trying to restore it to factory specs? Lift it? Lower it? Upgrade it? This is the time to start working towards whatever goal you have, it’s already apart and you’re trying to put it back together. My 88 I’m trying to upgrade a bunch of stuff but make it appear stock. It’s not goin to be the sleeper my green Ranger will be, but upgraded beyond what was original. Extended control arms (ride quality and suspension flex), engine and transmission mods (improved performance means less heat generated for the transmission, improved cooling and fuel efficiency, etc), upgraded suspension (Explorer leaf springs to eliminate sag along with help control body roll with stiffer springs and a front lift coil to level it again), etc.

My Haynes manuals are about only used for torque specs. Chilton (if you can find one) is better, factory shop manuals are the best, they tell you how the factory did it.

Just saw the above reply. No welding needed. Cool. Loctite? No need to bother as long as torque is tight on? Will see what I can find as far as manuals. I’m just looking to bring it back to factory. I have pics of the donor ranger and the cab looks the same. The seat style is anyway which is great as I need the seat sliders. Also rusted away. I’d have to see it in person to be sure. The owner sent me just basic pics and said he’d sell it to me for 700, I could pick what I need and he’d (he runs a tow co so he has scrappers) buy it back. The motor has 150,000 and that seems like a lot so dropping it into my truck would just be asking for a major motor repair shortly down the road. And it may not be compatible anyway. So I’m looking for a rebuilt. I just got the tranny home today and it’s not as apart as I remembered. It may be salvageable. Depends on what can be found as far as rebuilt and price of getting mine back to working condition. Thanks again for your answer. I really appreciate it.

 

[Dawn]

Thanks very much. The spring bucket came with hardware. And have it welded?

Nope, no welding Think I’ll read everything before I reply.

 

[Dawn]

So like has been said, that’s the coil bucket. I’ve replaced them, just drill the holes to 1/2” and bolt with grade 8, no welding required. The frame may or may not be badly rusted behind it, so far the ones I’ve done were not bad enough to warrant repair/replacement, but I have taken to putting marine grease between the parts and filling the one pocket with grease to limit further rusting. The upgrade of course is to weld on a mount to replace the coil with a coil over shock, but since you already have the bracket and plenty of other things to work on, I probably wouldn’t worry too much.

Cab floors may be different between 87 and 97.

What are your goals with this truck? Like are you just trying to restore it to factory specs? Lift it? Lower it? Upgrade it? This is the time to start working towards whatever goal you have, it’s already apart and you’re trying to put it back together. My 88 I’m trying to upgrade a bunch of stuff but make it appear stock. It’s not goin to be the sleeper my green Ranger will be, but upgraded beyond what was original. Extended control arms (ride quality and suspension flex), engine and transmission mods (improved performance means less heat generated for the transmission, improved cooling and fuel efficiency, etc), upgraded suspension (Explorer leaf springs to eliminate sag along with help control body roll with stiffer springs and a front lift coil to level it again), etc.

My Haynes manuals are about only used for torque specs. Chilton (if you can find one) is better, factory shop manuals are the best, they tell you how the factory did it.

I’m also wondering about a newer engine if I can get one as it would be more gas efficient? Having the same year would be nice but I’m thinking about cooling, efficiency etc like you said.