How to swap an M5OD-R1HD for an M5OD-R1

[-Nathan-]

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Original Poster: -Nathan-

Difficulty: 8 out of 10 (depending on skill level)

Time to install: hours-days (depending on skill level)


Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.


Brief Explanation: The input, output bearings, and syncros were shot in the M5OD-R1 in my 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4. The M5OD-R1 was replaced by the M5OD-R1 HD in the Ford Ranger from 2001-present, and in the Ford Explorer from 1997-2002. The HD version has a different 1st and 2nd gear, with different syncros. It was almost as cheap to buy a used HD transmission as it was to buy parts to rebuild my R1. It is an EXCELLENT upgrade for the old R1 transmission.

Tools Needed:
-floor jack
-sockets
-wrenches
-various other hand tools

Parts Needed:
-M5OD-R1 transmission from a 2001-present Ranger
-clutch slave cylinder from an R1 transmission (NOT HD)
-shifter from a 2001-present Ranger (or cut and weld your old one, as I did, if possible)


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Step 1: This is an optional step, however I highly recommend it. The M5OD transmissions are notorious for leaking fluid from the shift rail plugs. So, I removed my plugs, cleaned them with brake cleaner, and RTV’d them back into place.

Step 2: Remove transfer case and transmission.

Step 3: Install an OHV 4.0 R1 clutch slave into the new transmission. The reason for this is that the hydraulic quick connect lines are different sizes, so to avoid changing lines and bleed ing the system, use an older slave. It bolts up exactly the same in the new tranny.

Step 4: Install transmission. Below are some pictures. There is an extra bolt hole in the HD tranny, and thus mates up to older OHV engines.

The tail housing extensions bolt patterns are also the same, so you will have no problem bolting up your BW 1354. NOTE* there are no bosses for manual transfer case linkages on the HD tranny, if you have an electronic case like me, than it is not an issue.

Also for those wondering, the input shafts are identical, both 23 spline 1” OD, and so the old clutch can be used.

You will notice that there is no NSS (neutral sense switch) connection on the HD transmission, as there was on the R1 tranny. You DO NOT need to connect it to anything. You can leave the plug unconnected, it works perfectly fine without it.

This is the NSS connector on the R1 tranny

And here is the connector under the truck.

The only electrical connection you need to make is to connect the reverse light sensor, it is the exact same as the old tranny, and is plug and play (not connector in red, on left side of shift stub)

Step 5: Connect and bleed the hydraulic clutch, if you do not know how it is in the tech library.

Step 6: Once the tranny, t-case, and everything else is bolted back into position, turn your attention to the shift stub. The shift stub is DIFFERENT on the HD tranny. For one the notch for the shifter has been rotated 90 degrees, and the trans end is different. So, you HAVE to use the shift stub from the HD tranny.

You could use a shifter from a newer truck, but I couldn’t get my hands on one. So to fix the problem, I simply cut the attachment point off of my stock R1 shifter, turned it 90 degrees, and re-welded it.

Step 7: Make sure the tranny is full of fluid, all your bolts are tightened, and take it for a drive! I found the HD transmission to shift MUCH smoother, and the gear placement so much crisper than the old R1 transmission. First and second gear feel more stout, and everything seems to work better in general. I am EXTREMELY happy with the swap, and highly recommend it for anyone who either wants an upgrade, or needs to replace a worn out transmission. Enjoy,

-Nathan-

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[AgPete139]

Very informative, and detailed with pictures. When my R1 goes out, it will be replaced with an HD.

Good job.

Pete

 

[farmer]

quick question: if the hd trans doesn't have the attachments for the manual transfer case, how is the linkage run on the FX4 Level II trucks? just added info for those who have manual cases

 

[-Nathan-]

There is some form of bracketry used for the manual cases in the level II trucks I believe.

 

[sloth69mustang]

yeah i want to switch out my 3.0l for a 4.0l and hd trans but i have manual transfer case in my 97. keeping as stock as possible is ideal for me. so manual still possible with the same linkage that is already on the 97?

 

[RangerSVT]

quick question: if the hd trans doesn't have the attachments for the manual transfer case, how is the linkage run on the FX4 Level II trucks? just added info for those who have manual cases

Use the adapter housing from your old trans (the piece thats in between your Tcase and trans) as this is where your bosses are located for the shifter to bolt to
SVT

 

[ElleShooTiger]

quick question: if the hd trans doesn't have the attachments for the manual transfer case, how is the linkage run on the FX4 Level II trucks? just added info for those who have manual cases

Ford stopped putting the mounting bosses on all extension housings around 2001. The FX4 got a special batch of older-style extensions, they are extremeeeeeely rare. Some people have made their own mounts however, somebody might even sell them.

Use the adapter housing from your old trans (the piece thats in between your Tcase and trans) as this is where your bosses are located for the shifter to bolt to

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think there was another thread with somebody swapping the extensions between the R1 and R1-HD and its not quite plug-and-play.

 

[wakingtowinter]

Nathan, I was wondering if you could go into more detail about the difficulty of this swap. My 94 has its original transmission and although I'm not having any big problems with it, that's a lot of miles (~250k, not exactly sure). I'm moving in a few months and I'll be without a garage for a little while so I'm wondering if this is something I should nip in the bud and take care of while I have the garage and a running truck and can plan around the job, etc. rather than letting it sneak up on me and force me to take it to a shop.

To give you an idea of my level of experience: I'm relatively new to car stuff but over the past few months I've done things like fan clutch, starter, ball joints, brakes, p/s pump, etc. without much difficulty. This summer I had to do my first engine swap, which was definitely new territory for me, but I managed okay. It seems like swapping a transmission would be quicker and easier than an engine, right? Definitely seems easier than rebuilding the transmission.

 

[-Nathan-]

Hey man, I would definitely take advantage now while you have a garage. If you can change an engine, you can swap a tranny. Heres the low down:

1. unbolt/remove drive shafts
2. disconnect harnesses for O2 sensors, and remove exhaust/y pipe
3. disconnect/remove starter
4. put a jack under the tranny, and remove the cross-member(s)
5. unbolt speedo cable from t-case, unplug t-case wiring, unbolt t-case from extension housing on tranny (lower the jack some to access the upper bolts), and just pull it off, it doesnt weigh that much.
6. disconnect reverse light/NSS connectors from tranny.
7. disconnect clutch hydraulic line (push inwards on plastic coupler, will pop out)
8. remove shifter from inside cab.
9. remove bell housing bolts, dont worry the tranny isnt going anywhere.
10. remove jack, and remove tranny, pulling backwards to disengage input shaft(if you cant man-handle it yourself, get a buddy to help you)
11. now just follow the steps in my write up.

if you have any other questions feel free to ask.

 

[wakingtowinter]

Cool, that sounds like something I'm capable of doing. Just needed some encouragement I'll probably start looking for an HD trans next week.

 

[rboyer]

One thing you should add. As far as the shifter stubs there is a longer shifter stub with the goove machined into it facing the passenger side which can be used with the older shifters so some people won't have to even worry about the shifter issue at all. There is also exists a longer stub with both grooves in it which will accept both the older and newer shifters. I only ever saw one of them and it was on a 97 explorer which i'm assuming means that they were manufactured to get Ford through a transition period of phasing out the older shifters. On the other hand welding it the way you did can also give you the benefit of putting the shifter to a "customized" position if you were to want it farther back or off to the side and you don't spend any money in doing so.

 

[fordxranger]

here is a post of another user who swapped in a HD trans with a manual t case:

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=355928&postcount=43

 

[g356spd]

great write up. Im getting ready to do the same thing this week, but i lucked into getting the hd shifter with the trans.

 

[-Nathan-]

good stuff, let me know if you have any questions. I actually liked cutting/welding my shifter, allowed me to place it exactly where i wanted it.

 

[AgPete139]

good stuff, let me know if you have any questions. I actually liked cutting/welding my shifter, allowed me to place it exactly where i wanted it.

What kind of welder did you use / settings? (I'm just now starting out with welding, and I have already lopped off my shifter, very similar to yours.)

Currently am using this:

I hope this doesn't sound like a PITA noob question...

Thanks.