how to remove hose from clutch master?


bhawk

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94 Ranger. Clutch master must be replaced. I see a roll pin that needs to be pushed out to get the main supply hose from the master to the clutch slave removed. But how to do that with the master bolted in place? There is no room to move near there.
Do you guys remove the hose with the master cylinder and then disengage the hose from the master on the bench? Problem with that is it doesn't look easy to get that winding thick hose out either. We have a 4x4 and lots of that is in the way.
Is there a way to remove the hose at the master before you unbolt it? Or some other trick to get that hose connection disengaged the easiest.
 


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IIRC you need the special ford hydraulic fitting tool made for the clutch line.
 

adsm08

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IIRC you need the special ford hydraulic fitting tool made for the clutch line.
You are thinking of the slave fitting.

The master has a roll pin in it that holds the line in place. Get a small punch and pop the pin out. The line just pops out then.
 

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^This^

I removed mine from the firewall though instead of leaving it in place.
 

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I removed mine from the firewall though instead of leaving it in place.
^That^

I'm pretty sure I did too. I don't really remember for sure. It was cold out. And about a year ago.
 

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I used a small ice pick looking thing and tapped it out
 

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To close this thread, I will answer my own question. Yes the roll pin just taps out, but that has to be done on the bench because you need to install the new hose, or old hose on a new master cylinder on the bench to bleed the master. Even if you successfully removed and reinstalled the pressure hose at the master cylinder by removing the roll pin in that location, you will never bleed the master on the truck, given the configuration of the master on the firewall. It has to be bled on the bench with the pressure hose attached. Once it is bled properly, it is not that hard to install the new master with hose attached to the firewall. I know the above because we installed a new clutch master cylinder yesterday.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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To close this thread, I will answer my own question. Yes the roll pin just taps out, but that has to be done on the bench because you need to install the new hose, or old hose on a new master cylinder on the bench to bleed the master. Even if you successfully removed and reinstalled the pressure hose at the master cylinder by removing the roll pin in that location, you will never bleed the master on the truck, given the configuration of the master on the firewall. It has to be bled on the bench with the pressure hose attached. Once it is bled properly, it is not that hard to install the new master with hose attached to the firewall. I know the above because we installed a new clutch master cylinder yesterday.
Bumping this old thread with a follow-up question... What if I get the replacement line that is already filled with fluid and thus "pre-bled"? Might it then be possible to just swap out the line while leaving the master in place?
 

Shran

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Bumping this old thread with a follow-up question... What if I get the replacement line that is already filled with fluid and thus "pre-bled"? Might it then be possible to just swap out the line while leaving the master in place?
Assuming you can even get the clearance to get both hands, a punch and a hammer in there, you'd still be introducing at least a tiny bit of air into the system when you disconnect the line. Just pull the master and hose, it's pretty easy to remove as an assembly.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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Assuming you can even get the clearance to get both hands, a punch and a hammer in there, you'd still be introducing at least a tiny bit of air into the system when you disconnect the line. Just pull the master and hose, it's pretty easy to remove as an assembly.
Fair enough, that will be the plan.
 


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