- Joined
- Jun 6, 2009
- Messages
- 1,919
- Reaction score
- 39
- Points
- 48
- Location
- Saskatoon, SK, Canada
- Vehicle Year
- 1993 / 2001
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- HO 5.0 / 7.3 PSD
- Transmission
- Manual
Original Poster: -Nathan-
Difficulty: 5 out of 10
Time to install: 1 – 2 hrs.
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation: In colder climates, a block heater is a necessity to ensure proper start up. Basically the heater takes place of a freeze plug, which when plugged in warms the coolant and the surrounding block.
Tools Needed:
- hammer
- punch
-needle nosed pliers
- various screw drivers
-various wrenches/sockets
Parts Needed:
- block heater (ask for motorcraft at parts dealer, is significantly cheaper)
- non – petroleum based grease
-coolant
Steps:
1. First things first, remove the air box assembly.
2. Then, remove the inner fender. Honestly, this was the hardest part of the job.
3. Here you can see the freeze plug you have to remove.
4. Now, before you remove it, open your rad cap (make sure the engine isn’t boiling hot) and then drain the coolant either by a)the lower rad hose...this makes a big mess, or b) use the draincock on the rad.
5. Then, take a punch or screw driver, and beat in the edge of the freeze plug. Afterwards, just haul it out with a set of pliers.
6. After the last of the coolant has spewed out, give it a wipe clean, and grab your block heater. Here is the Motorcraft one I bought from ford for 35$
7. Now, take a little bit of NON-petroleum based grease and lube up the o-ring.
8. Take it, press it into the hole, make sure its seated in the whole way around. Tighten the screw...this opens up the wing nut and makes sure the plug stays in place.
9. Then plug the end of the cord in and run it through the grille or where ever you like. Put the inner fender back, and then the air box.
10. Make sure to refill the rad until full, turn on the engine, and let it run WITHOUT the cap on in order to get some of the air out. Top up and then you’re ready to go
Difficulty: 5 out of 10
Time to install: 1 – 2 hrs.
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation: In colder climates, a block heater is a necessity to ensure proper start up. Basically the heater takes place of a freeze plug, which when plugged in warms the coolant and the surrounding block.
Tools Needed:
- hammer
- punch
-needle nosed pliers
- various screw drivers
-various wrenches/sockets
Parts Needed:
- block heater (ask for motorcraft at parts dealer, is significantly cheaper)
- non – petroleum based grease
-coolant
Steps:
1. First things first, remove the air box assembly.
2. Then, remove the inner fender. Honestly, this was the hardest part of the job.
3. Here you can see the freeze plug you have to remove.
4. Now, before you remove it, open your rad cap (make sure the engine isn’t boiling hot) and then drain the coolant either by a)the lower rad hose...this makes a big mess, or b) use the draincock on the rad.
5. Then, take a punch or screw driver, and beat in the edge of the freeze plug. Afterwards, just haul it out with a set of pliers.
6. After the last of the coolant has spewed out, give it a wipe clean, and grab your block heater. Here is the Motorcraft one I bought from ford for 35$
7. Now, take a little bit of NON-petroleum based grease and lube up the o-ring.
8. Take it, press it into the hole, make sure its seated in the whole way around. Tighten the screw...this opens up the wing nut and makes sure the plug stays in place.
9. Then plug the end of the cord in and run it through the grille or where ever you like. Put the inner fender back, and then the air box.
10. Make sure to refill the rad until full, turn on the engine, and let it run WITHOUT the cap on in order to get some of the air out. Top up and then you’re ready to go
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