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How to Make a 2004 FX4 Level 1 to FX4 Level 2... Simplified Please, already Confused


hlenhart

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Hey Guys, been lurking here for Years keeping my 1990 Ranger with 230 K alive, maybe went thru All ur tech articles, I even rebuilt my 1st ever auto trans thx to your info pages & still Works !!!!! Thanks U Alot !,
So I just bought a 2004 FX4 Level 1... Immaculate condition, garage kept since 2004 , oil changed every 5 K, Never off road, NO rust, etc from an "Old Guy" ... and maybe it's not all I thought it was... gets confusing . I couldn't of made a Bad Mistake , really ?
My Question is How to Eventually make it a REAL FX4 Level II ? $3000 Torsens ?
OR At least a Simple way to put Free-Wheeling hubs on it ... Entire front gear train turning All the time in 2 wd seems to be a totally Stupid Ford design flaw, probly from the same guy that put distributor in the back? LOL
 


Dirtman

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The live axle setup is actually quite genius. With nothing there to disconnect there is nothing there to fail. :icon_idea:

If you put a locker or lsd up front yes you will need manual locking hubs.

But the only differences I know of in that year between the FX4 and FX4 lvl 2 was the addition of bilstein shocks, larger tires and the 31 spline torsen lsd in the rear.
 

hlenhart

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Maybe I Don't quite understand the "genius" live axle ... 85 % going to work on Turnpike at 80 mph with useless parts goin around & costing Record gas prices per MPG per gallon ... or still %15 slow climbing mountains to go hunting where Nobody's ever been ....
 

Dirtman

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Not everything is actually spinning since its an open diff, its not turning all the way up to the transfer case. And yes there is a marginal fuel economy loss but overall the design is physically stronger than any auto or manual hubs. Its a trade off of on road fuel economy for offroad reliability and being that it's a 4x4 pickup truck, fuel economy was never a major concern anyway.
 

Uncle Gump

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Lets see a few pictures of what you have...

Should have Alcoa wheels.... chrome front tow hooks... skid plates...

You could have a dealer run your VIN for some as built data... then you at least know exactly what you have to begin with.
 

pjtoledo

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get the info from the metal tag on the rear axle, including the band around the passenger side.
 

hlenhart

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New Truck's actually Coming to my driveway Monday, I've been looking for a Decent 2004 without a Fk 'd Up frame for a year.... to replace my Great 1990 ranger, which probly cost me 25 K over the 30 years, but still Great, but certainly scares crap out of me at 80 mph on turnpike (my new job, for a millionaire, Not me).. after lookin at @30 2004 rangers, I,d say this is one is As Imacculate as it will ever get, frame is actually quite Incredible, not a Speck of Rust, as compared to most 2004 frames I can put my Fist thru ... srry dont know how to post Facebook pics yet , this only my 2nd post in 5 years ....
THX All, My original question is still how to make it a REAL FX4 Level II, dont understand useless VIN's
 

Uncle Gump

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hlenhart

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For instance ... is an FX4 "Limited Slip Rear Diff" the same as a $1000 Torsen Posi Rear??? starting to doubt it , but really want "free wheeling in front 2wd
 

hlenhart

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Thx, already Went thru all the tech library & searches, but Still totally confused about FX4 level 1 & 2 Differences.... I want to make this Rare condition Truck right.... Can anybody give me a simple Answer ??? THX U
 

Uncle Gump

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No...

The Traction Loc and the torsen are different.

This is taken from the article...

Off-Road
In addition to the standard features on every Ranger, listed below are a few key features included on the FX4 Off-Road in addition to or in place of those on the XLT.
  • 4.0L V6 engine with 5-speed manual transmission
  • 16” 5-spoke cast aluminum wheels
  • P245/75Rx16 all-terrain OWL tires
  • 2 Steel skid plates and 2 tow hooks
Level II
In addition to the standard features on every Ranger, listed below are a few key features included on the FX4 Level II in addition to or in place of those on the FX4 Off-Road.
  • 15” Alcoa® forged-aluminum wheels
  • BFG KO 31×10.5 all-terrain RWL tires
  • Bilstein® gas-charged shocks
  • Torsen® limited-slip rear axle
I'm not sure what else you need.
 

hlenhart

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THX Buddy, I already read all that stuff, I suppose my Original Question would be "How to Fix Stupid Front Differential to Free -Wheeling at 80 mph" I've seen some articles, but I still dont understand Factory FX4 level 1 versus level II differential Fundamentals, i guess. ....is there a link I should read on it that I still can't find ? THX
 

Otis413

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I have a 2003 FX4 Lev2, came with the original paprework, it was special ordered with an auto trans instead of the 5 speed which means it didn't come with a manual t-case..
If you want the free wheelin' front end find a Ranger or Explorer that had the vacuum locking hubs, swap them (including the axle shafts/ CV joints) onto your 2004 and get the manual hub conversion kit that was made to convert the vac hubs to manual, it will all bolt on. Your 2004 should have 12" front brake rotors, the old vac hubs use the 11.25 (about) rotors, Rangers went from 11.25" (about) to 12" rotors in >about< 2003/2004, the difference was the spindle which positioned the caliper a little further out.
 
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Uncle Gump

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I think by 04 there were no locking hubs of any kind on a Ranger. So if you're trying to "build a level II" it wouldn't have had PVH hubs.

There are a few articles to look at to convert to PVH and then manual locking hubs.

go down to the hub section

Axle Tech – The Ranger Station
 

RonD

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Go here and get the 2004 Ranger Brochure: https://www.therangerstation.com/articles/ford-ranger-brochures/

There is no "level I" so I assume you mean you have a 2004 4.0l SOHC FX4 Off-Road

You could add some of the extras but Level II interior would get pricey

And no, on the Live axle being a bad idea, it actually worked out better than past 4WD setups
Having the front hubs always "locked" allowed the u-joints/CV joints and differential to be constantly lubed
Manual or auto hubs had a higher failure rate unless they were used every few months because parts would dry out
If you are mechanically inclined then you know "dry starts" cause more wear than full use

Live axle eliminated the need for electric clutch in transfer case, for "on the fly" shifting to and from 4high
Live axle only caused a .2-.3MPG drop, not nothing but if you drive a truck, especially a 4WD truck that sits higher off the road, then MPG is NOT your biggest concern, lol

2001, and up, Ranger 4x4s all had Live axle, Level II was no different

If you have a Ford L/S already I wouldn't swap it for a Torsen L/S, but if you have an OPEN rear axle then a Torsen L/S would be the better choice
Difference is that Torsen uses gears not clutches so doesn't wear out, but both have the same functionality as far as traction and limited slip
 
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