how to install valve lifters on 2.9l without tearing the whole thing apart

[stamina]

Stamina,

**The Chilton's manual for the 1983-91 Ford 60°v6, 2.9L state to perform the procedure on a cold engine and to move the nut 1½ turns or 2mm past zero lash, while on the base circle.**

This is how to determine "how many complete turns past zero lash, while on the base circle".

There are 3 variables to understand/know:
1) the range of the lifter plunger = 0.100".
2) how much vertical distance the adjustment nut moves in one complete turn (360°). Once the amount of travel on the adjustment bolt for 1 complete revolution of the adjustment nut is known, then it is simple to determine how many complete turns or how much of 360° rotation is required to correctly position the nut.
3) in my experience these engines like approximately 0.035" preload (plunger movement into the lifter stroke), if done while at normal operational temperature. If the adjustment is performed on a cold engine I would have to guess, so I don't do it that way.

NOTES:
• I use red Lock-tite on the threads to help keep their position.
• I do the driver's bank 1st with engine at temp, then close that side up, rewarm the engine and then adjust the passenger side.
• everytime I've tried to make this adjustment on a cold engine I was not satisfied with the noise; so I decided to learn a different way to get it quiet, while at normal temp.
• removing the spark plugs is not required but on a cold engine, it will reduce the amount of force required to rotate the engine to position the cam.
• only rotate the crankshaft clockwise, as viewed from the front of the engine.

you’re awesome man i’m going to do it this weekend and try it cold, as that’s what everyone has said to do on my other thread because the lifters won’t be pumped up and a few other reasons, if it doesn’t work out well i will adjust again while warm, three more questions, 1 what kind of tool is used to adjust the nuts? an alan key or a normal socket? second, are you saying you remove the adjustment nuts entirely then use the red loctite on the adjustment nuts? is there anything that will have to be removed to get the valve covers off and have good room to work? thanks so much for your help and words of wisdom

 

[rumblecloud]

I just grab the belts and turn the engine.

Of course you do...is there any other way?

 

[bobbywalter]

Of course you do...is there any other way?

Wrench .

.socket and breaker bar....

 

[gaz]

Stamina,

• If I were going to adjust the hydraulic lifter preload I would 1st verify that my engine timing is set correctly and set with all normal engine loads activated. EI; heater, a/c, driving lights or any other power draws that will normally be ON while this vehicle is driven.
• Make sure your oil is fresh or at correct level.
• socket set, one or two socket extensions, open end wrenches and Allen's on hand.
• use of the Lock-Tite is clearly optional so use at your discretion, in the manner you believe it will benefit the process the most.
• getting the valve covers off fast is tricky. Doing it slow is absolute common sense, if something is in the way, temporarily remove it to simplify the overall task.
• for the actual adjustment I used a socket driven breaker bar, for ease of rotation and to best identify the % of rotation (when I adjusted them by rotation method).

 

[stamina]

Stamina,

• If I were going to adjust the hydraulic lifter preload I would 1st verify that my engine timing is set correctly and set with all normal engine loads activated. EI; heater, a/c, driving lights or any other power draws that will normally be ON while this vehicle is driven.
• Make sure your oil is fresh or at correct level.
• socket set, one or two socket extensions, open end wrenches and Allen's on hand.
• use of the Lock-Tite is clearly optional so use at your discretion, in the manner you believe it will benefit the process the most.
• getting the valve covers off fast is tricky. Doing it slow is absolute common sense, if something is in the way, temporarily remove it to simplify the overall task.
• for the actual adjustment I used a socket driven breaker bar, for ease of rotation and to best identify the % of rotation (when I adjusted them by rotation method).

wouldnt the engine misfire if the timing was set incorrectly? what are the symptoms of incorrect timing?

 

[gaz]

Stamina,

All that I'm saying is that it is worth verifying the base timing on your warmed to operational temperature engine before adjusting the lifter preload, since timing has direct impact on the position of the CAM. The lifter preload has a direct impact on the performance that the cam offers.

Additionally, for the 12 extra minutes the procedure will take, all of those questions will be answered, right before your eyes.

 

[stamina]

Stamina,

All that I'm saying is that it is worth verifying the base timing on your warmed to operational temperature engine before adjusting the lifter preload, since timing has direct impact on the position of the CAM. The lifter preload has a direct impact on the performance that the cam offers.

Additionally, for the 12 extra minutes the procedure will take, all of those questions will be answered, right before your eyes.

how do i verify the base timing man LOL i don’t know how to do that either

 

[gaz]

If you want it, we can work something out.

The 1986 Ford Shop Maintenance manual arrived today, completely intact and well protected from the elements.

Thank you AndyB, for the great offer!

 

[gaz]

Stamina,

• warm engine to normal operational temperature then turn off engine.
• disconnect pigtail from distributor.
• hook up timing light.
• restart engine, still at normal operational temperature.
• verify timing is at manufacturer's recommend.
- if not ajust to manufacturer's recommend timing. Turn off off engine.
• reconnect distributor pigtail.