How the heck to clean this MAF sensor

[ryanthevan]

I have cracks in my air filter housing on the clean side. So need to patch that up. Figured I'd clean the MAF sensor while I'm at it with MAF cleaner. When I take it out, there doesn't seem to be a sensor hanging down like all of the YouTube videos I've watched. How do I clean this MAF Sensor?

Looks like I can unscrew the MAF sensor, but it has special tamper proof screws that I don't have the tools for.

Thanks for any tips! Sorry I'm a beginner.

 

[ryanthevan]

Looks the same as this pic from the 87-93 mustang. I guess just try to shoot the cleaner through the screen and into the hole where I'm guessing the sensor sits? Or maybe I should remove the sensor?

 

[RobbieD]

Much better to pull the filament assembly out. The fasteners are "Security Torx"; you can buy the bits to fit a 1/4 drive handle; get just the correct single bit or get a whole set for not too much more.

 

[ryanthevan]

Awesome. I'll run to the store today and grab a security torx for removal. Would it be worth it to install a new MAF (~$45) while I'm at it since this is a ~30 year old vehicle with no history. Nothing suggests that this one is bad, but wondering if it's an easy thing that could pay for itself with better mpg

 

[Uncle Gump]

You're way farther ahead to use care and keep running that motorcraft part.

Aftermarket parts are just terrible anymore.

 

[ryanthevan]

Great to know. Thanks for the help!

 

[Shran]

Remove the two screws, pull the sensor out and clean off the two little filaments with MAF cleaner. A really fine paint brush can help remove dirt if it's really built up but be very careful.

Often I have found they are caked with oil from people running K&N air filters. Cleaning them and running a good paper filter often makes the vehicle run a lot better.

 

[RobbieD]

Would it be worth it to install a new MAF (~$45) while I'm at it since this is a ~30 year old vehicle with no history. Nothing suggests that this one is bad, but wondering if it's an easy thing that could pay for itself with better mpg

No.

An original working part is ten times better than any newly-made replacement part.

New parts are crap. They might "work"; sometimes not, right out of the box, and they simply won't last like an OEM original part.

An exception may be an NOS (New Old Stock) part, but on these you can't be sure it's really NOS, when it was made, who made it, or how it's been stored for a couple of decades. And these can be expensive, too.

I'll keep functional originally-installed parts until they can't possibly be fixed anymore, and when that finally occurs I ceremoniously and respectfully bury the dead part, with honor, much regret and deep sadness.

 

[ryanthevan]

You guys are the best! I got a power torx kit, took the MAF sensor off (lots of dust, probably since there was a large crack/hole in the air filter housing on the clean side that I just taped).

Sprayed it with MAF cleaner per instructions. I think the sensor was definitely dirty. And like @RobbieD said, I think it's OEM. But I noticed one strand looked red and noticeably worse than the other. Does this indicate a failed sensor?

 

[RobbieD]

The look of that one element doesn't inspire a lot of confidence.

The sensor can be tested with a VOM (Volt / Ohm Meter). Good post on it here:
https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/1994-ford-ranger-4-0-maf-issues.203293/
and there's a ton more MAF testing info on the web.

I'd definitely test it before just replacing it.

Good luck!

 

[SenorNoob]

Your picture is interesting. I've only ever looked at couple up close and never seen both elements in glass like that. I'm used to seeing one that's just open like a bulb.