How should I build it? (2001 3.0 xlt)

[JoshT]

Will do! I know I want to lower it 2 to 3 inches but don’t know where to go other then djm but i’ve heard they are pricy.

For reference when someone says 2/3, 4/5, etc in reference to lowering, that is usually the drop in inches for front/rear.

They aren't cheap, but they also have a well earned reputation for quality. A DJM 2/3 drop for an 01 Ranger is around $500. Realistically that's probably within about $50 for the same kit from anyone else, and likely better quality. Ok, eBay probably has it for half as much, but who knows what spring rates, shock rates, and material quality you're getting.

The DJM 2/3 kit consists of 2" lowering coil springs for the front, a flip kit with lift shackles that equals about 3" in the rear, and new shocks all around. That will put the truck about level. You could probably get the 2/3 for less by buying the individual kits. I think it would be about $300. The kit does include shocks for an extra $200, but for this small drop the stock length shocks should still be fine. Honestly though I don't think its worth it. Save up the extra $200 and get the kit with the shocks.

If you wanted to keep the rake, but lower, you could get the drop springs for the front and do a hanger flip in the rear for about a 2/2 drop. The springs are about $150, and the hanger flip is just the cost of hardware. Note that the hanger flip does require some tooling to remove the rivets holding them to the frame, so not everyone will have the equipment on hand.

Going lower than a 2/3 will increase cost, but you are also replacing more parts for the money.

For any of these also factor in the cost of needing camber eccentrics to align the front. I'm guessing that you'd spend around $50 for a set of those, but installing them when installing the drop will remove the cost of having to pay the alignment shop to do it. I can almost gurantee the alignment shop would be close to double on parts, then that again on labor to install.

 

[JoshT]

Oh, and definitely fix all mechanical issues before you start investing in goodies like suspension modifications. That is unless part of the mechanical issues would be fixed with the modifications. No point in buying a replacement stock part when you already plan to replace that with aftermarket modified.

IE: You have a broken coil spring, and you want to install lowering coil springs. Or you need balljoints and control arm bushings, but plan install a 4" drop kit that will replace the control arms.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I would get the transmission ironed out first, it sounds like it's in rebuild territory, if you're handy I would recommend pulling the trans (after draining it) and finding someone to go through it, you aren't too far away but further than I would say to go to my buddy but a big portion of the cost is labor in removal and install and DON'T go to Aamco or somewhere similar, go to the little guys that likely actually know what they are doing... The only real other transmission to install would be a manual swap but that would involve finding a different computer which on an '01 might get complicated with the PATS system (chip key theft stuff) and depends on how you feel about auto vs manual...

If the DGM kit is $500 that isn't bad from the sounds of it.

I'm with most of the other guys too, driving as is and getting some mechanical stuff figured out should be first then it's just tinkering, there's a list of things you can do in the interior to customize things with junkyard parts like explorer seats and center consoles and overhead console and stuff...

 

[19Walt93]

I wouldn't buy a used transmission for a truck that age and install it without an overhaul, my first choice would be to find a transmission shop with a good rep and have them rebuild your's. I'd also have them do the R&R so they'll guarantee the job, it's critical that the cooler and lines be thoroughly flushed and that the fluid be quickly filled before it's run much. I'd avoid any chain shops- not just for transmissions- Jiffy Lube, Midas, etc.

 

[19Walt93]

If you paid $500 for that truck it was a gift. I wanted an 83-88 short box to build my V8 Ranger and ended up with a 93 long box for $1500 because it wasn't rusty. It had no engine, transmission, gas tank, gas tank crossmember, heater box, a junk 8.8, and no brakes. It was in a car trailer when I looked at it so I didn't realise it was lowered- or that it was a long box. The front cab mounts were completely missing, the rear mounts were a hockey puck and a stack of washers on each side, and the under floor mounts had 7/16 bolts wound into 12mm threads so they barely held. The box was held on by 2 3/8 carriage bolts. I kept the dropped I beams and bushings because I didn't want to buy new stock arms.
replaced

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[scotts90ranger]

I mentioned removing it himself because R&R labor is likely $500 and add another $12-1800 for a rebuild if I had to guess... auto transmissions are spendy to overhaul...

 

[Brain75]

I got to ask, since you have the 3.0L with an auto and are having trans issues... 4R44E or 4R55E, right..... yeah more likely the trans than the torque - those trans are a pile of steaming.... So "what should I do" with my truck would have the added side of start planning just what the heck you replace it with, replacing crap with crap still is crap... Figure out if you have that trans, how much you would hate the work of swapping to a manual, etc etc - start investigating what you HAVE and what your options are to fix that..

Once you have your options lined up then you can start hunting either the junkyards, reman places, parts stores, etc for the trans you want.

 

[19Walt93]

We had very little trouble with those transmissions, they were an evolution of the A4LD which was based on the C3. Change the fluid every 30k or so with Motorcraft fluid and they last fine. Let untrained chimps like Jiffy Lube touch it and all bets are off.