How important are Cold Cranking Amps on your battery?

[SlugStang8997]

Hey guys i just figured something out about my truck. I have a 5.0 v8 from a 2001 Mountaineer. And the reccomended CCA for that engine is 860 CCA.

The battery i have in the truck is only has 590cca so i replaced it with another battery that has 720cca for now cause that was all that Autozone had that would fit and was the most powerful. Wondering if i should add a second small battery to make up for the lack of CCA. But there isn't any room in the engine compartment for another battery really. I took a look around in there and couldn't really find much space.

Do any of you guys know of a physically small battery that will produce 860cca? Or at least 750cca?

It doesn't get real cold here in CA but if it did it could be a problem in the future or if i left my lights on or something the truck might not start witch could always happen but would be more likely to happen with the weaker battery.

 

[Curious Hound]

The CCA rating is most important for cold weather starting or engines with high compression. It is a rating of how well the battery can handle delivering a lot of power for hard starts without damaging itself. A battery with a higher rating will be able to turn the starter faster and easier in any situation, which gets the engine running faster and places less stress on the starter. If your previous battery worked well, then You should be fine. But the engineers recommended a certain battery because they thought it would be best.

The physical size of the battery and it's terminal configurations are designated by the "group number". So, when shopping, look for a battery with the right group number and CCA rating. For example; a group 65 battery with 850CCA.

 

[SlugStang8997]

The CCA rating is most important for cold weather starting or engines with high compression. It is a rating of how well the battery can handle delivering a lot of power for hard starts without damaging itself. A battery with a higher rating will be able to turn the starter faster and easier in any situation, which gets the engine running faster and places less stress on the starter. If your previous battery worked well, then You should be fine. But the engineers recommended a certain battery because they thought it would be best.

The physical size of the battery and it's terminal configurations are designated by the "group number". So, when shopping, look for a battery with the right group number and CCA rating. For example; a group 65 battery with 850CCA.
View attachment 117652

Thanks for your reply
I am looking for batteries or a secondary battery. I put a new battery in already but just want something a little better. Your right about the sizes its a little confusing though every manufacturer has there own setup it seems. I went to Sams club, and Autozone. Sams club battery didn't fit so i took it back then went to Autozone and got an optima battery. It originally had a interstate battery.

So i tried a Mountaineer battery Duracell from Sams but it wouldn't fit. That battery was almost 12 inchs while the interstate battery was only 10inchs. The optima battery is a bit smaller at 9inchs by 6inchs.

Its the original Ranger battery holder in the truck or at least i think it is. I got to get the Ranger battery Dimensions.

Duracell 860cca, interstate 590cca, and optima 720cca.

I am hoping to find at least 750cca battery that will fit okay. I don't want my starter to be working extra hard or anything like that.
Thanks again

 

[Curious Hound]

Its the original Ranger battery holder in the truck or at least i think it is. I got to get the Ranger battery Dimensions.

The group size will dictate the dimensions. From what I can tell, your truck takes either a group 58 or group 59 size. There are threads here in our forum where guys have discussed modifying or replacing their battery trays and fitting group65 batteries in their trucks. If your willing to do the modifications, other sizes should fit also. You can Google the battery dimensions for each group and decide what will fit. Then shop around for that group size that also has the CCA rating you want. Also pay attention to where the terminals are located. Some have to terminals, some have side terminals and some have both. But the positive and negative terminal may be swapped from one end to the other, also. That will screw you up when you try to connect the cables. They won't reach to the wrong end of the battery.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

Like @ericbphoto mentioned above. First you need to know what group size the battery is that fits. Once you know what size you need then you can do a quick Google search including the size or group number( for instance my 2020 takes a group 35) and the CCAs you want. You also have to be aware of what type battery it is as well. Most common are basic flooded or lead acid batteries. Vehicles equipped with the new auto start/stop feature have a AGM battery. Which is non serviceable but usually carries more amp hours but not always more CCAs. But knowing what type is important because each type has certain charging characteristics.

 

[don4331]

My '78 Mustang II with 5.0 had super small battery (26R) with barely 450 CCA. And it never failed to start in Saskatchewan winters.

The battery you have is more than sufficient in California - unless you forget the headlights on. And one of the plug in boost batteries is probably better idea if you have forgot the lights on and need a boost.

If you are putting in 2 batteries - they need to be identical - like down to date purchased or the 2nd battery needs its own charging circuit or you will fry one of the batteries (separate charging circuits is never a bad idea)

 

[2011Supercab]

Keep it the way it is.

A 720CCA is more than enough for your truck.

 

[JoshT]

I'm running stock ranger batt with my Explorer swap.

 

[SlugStang8997]

Well i tried the Optima D34-78 yellow top 750cca 870ca but it wouldn't fit. But it was really close i could get it to fit if i bent the battery tray. But i didn't want to do that. So that battery is too long to fit in the tray. The optima batteries are sold at my local Autozone. Figure i should post that so nobody else tries and fails. I just put the Optima 75-25 back in there. So that is the best battery i could find thus far but i have not given up yet im still trying to get closer to 860cca. I would like at least 750cca still.

This is something i should be able to do. There is a shop that sells used batteries and rebuilds batteries near me. I was going to go over there and see if they have some funky battery that would meet my requirements and fit in there. If i find it i will post it here. And im also not trying to spend a fortune on a battery...

My terminals might need replacing as well cause one is not in good shape. After trying to pull the battery a couple of times there kinda having problems but not a big deal. Anyone ever try those quick release terminals?

My road bike has quick release wheels and the seat clamp is quick release. So i kinda like the idea of quick release. But don't know if there quality quick releases or junk. The brands are strange

Thanks

 

[superj]

lots of people use those quick release clamps. you will be ok for those

 

[SlugStang8997]

lots of people use those quick release clamps. you will be ok for those

Thanks for your reply
They have those quick release clamps for about 8$ on amazon. I might give them a shot but my mechanic told me that if im not having problems that i should leave the terminals alone because they are probably better then what i can buy nowadays.

 

[Rick W]

I have run dual batteries on many of my vehicles over the years, but not for cranking. We had a lot of accessories. Lights and pumps and stuff.

A couple thoughts. If you run dual batteries, you’re starting capacity will only be as good as the weaker battery. I don’t understand exactly why, but if you have a new battery and a battery that has a couple years on it that is operating at 70%, both will deliver only at 70% if they are wired in parallel.

We always carry toolboxes, so the second battery always got wired in the toolbox

For our accessories, we would put a normal battery under the hood, and sometimes we would use a marine battery in the toolbox. The deep cycle Marine would keep our accessories running longer, and we had a disconnect switch between the two batteries. If we stop on the side of the road, we disconnect the battery and then run the accessories. That way the original battery always has enough to start.

My gut feeling is also that the manufacturer recommended CCA is not only what will start the best, but what will have a reasonable lifespan. I think the 720 should be fine, you may just have to replace it a year or two before an 850 or such

It’s a no-brainer to always carry jumper cables. I’ve realized a lot of these TRS guys have the power packs to jump a battery. That may be your best option, but you have to remember to keep it topped off, and you still have to find a place to put it in the truck. Behind the seat, maybe.

As far as locating a second battery, you could put it under the truck, under the bed in one of the big hollow spots, but you would have to make a shelf or container for it. You would also need a way to lower it down to check it periodically. So I would think a shelf where you could slide the battery in from the side, with long enough cables that you can slide the battery out without disconnecting it.

Also, over the years of having two batteries, we realized you don’t need that 3/8 inch diameter super fine stranded cable to run between the two batteries. I use conduit rated industrial 10 gauge stranded like you’d use in a factory, and twist two strands together. Loop it, loose ends in vice, stretch out the wire straight, put a hook in your drill chuck, and wind it. It comes out like factory, and the industrial wire has great protection from oil and grease and rubbing.

And finally, I personally have no experience with these, but now they make lithium ion jumpers that will fit in your pocket that will give enough boost to a tired battery when the battery itself is a little weak. It’s my understanding. The battery has to have some charge however it won’t jump a dead battery.

My two cents, hope it helps

 

[SlugStang8997]

Wondering is the 2001 ford ranger xlt battery tray welded in? Or bolted in? I don't see any bolts, nuts or screws. It looks to be part of the body even.

 

[Blmpkn]

I really wouldn't worry about the battery.. if it starts.. it starts.. and it'll just continue to start until the battery is junk from old age.

Our 6.0 liter work trucks got delivered to us with 600cca batteries in 2014.. and finally replaced ONE of them last year. It gets Cold up here.. never had a problem starting.

Spend the money on cooler shit

 

[don4331]

Also, over the years of having two batteries, we realized you don’t need that 3/8 inch diameter super fine stranded cable to run between the two batteries. I use conduit rated industrial 10 gauge stranded like you’d use in a factory, and twist two strands together. Loop it, loose ends in vice, stretch out the wire straight, put a hook in your drill chuck, and wind it. It comes out like factory, and the industrial wire has great protection from oil and grease and rubbing.

My two cents, hope it helps

You should be qualifying you statements:

If you're running just 10 gauge wire to your 2nd battery, you better have it set up so that you can't use it to start the engine e.g. a max 50 amp breaker (fuse) in the circuit (assuming <2m cable length).

If your distance is greater you need a smaller breaker (e.g. 3m = 30 amp fuse).

Burning your vehicle to the ground because you didn't follow proper guidelines isn't being frugal.