SpifNup
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2023
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 18
- Points
- 3
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
- Vehicle Year
- 2022
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger XLT
22 Ranger XLT. Preparing to install Redline Tuning hood struts.
Have several small questions on best rust-prevention method, if paint or primer (examples) added under replaced painted fender bolt (& washer).
Know little about rust-prevention or painting to prevent or inhibit rust.
Yet wish to handle this tiny project as well as possible.
Received Redline Tuning hood struts & preparing for install.
Looks like extremely easy bolt-on. No drilling required.
Install requires removal of factory fender bolts (one under each side of hood) ... to allow replacement with ball bolt insert (& washer) to be used as hood strut bottom mount.
A. Original factory fender bolt (& washer) is well painted (seems like Oxford White, matching exterior paint).
B. In Redline Tuning install video, looks like removal of that factory fender bolt--to replace with ball bolt insert--may expose a shiny, unpainted surface under the removed bolt & washer. [ Didn't yet remove orig bolts & washers, but suspect I'll find shiny metal, more or less. ]
1. Guessing my fender/cowl metal is aluminum? (hood seems light) That right?
2. Good idea to use paint or primer on any exposed metal under removed factory bolt & washer, before inserting new ball head bolt (for lower strut mount)?
2. If so, what's recommended to best protect against 'rust' or corrosion: primer, paint, both, or something else?
3. Should it be brushed on, or sprayed on (after masking surrounds)?
4. How many coats? Is one enough? Each coat thin?
5. Should I use a primer, or a 'final' paint?
[ Realize will be hidden under new washer (if new washer dia. no less than factor washer). ]
6. Any special type of 'paint' material ... if exposed metal is aluminum ... or steel? Does it need to have built-in rust inhibitor?
7. Can I do the prime or paint while it's cold (35 to 40F) in my garage?
8. How long to wait to properly dry (due to cold) between application and ball head bolt install? Or between applied layers (if recommended)?
9. Should I install hood struts without concern now, but later in warmer temps (springtime) remove the installed ball bolt & washer to paint underneath at that warmer time?
10. Ball head bolt and washer--strut mount hardware sets--are (I believe) black powder coated.
Somewhere in the past (on job & later in readings) I recollect learning that dissimilar metals always create some sort of automatic electrolysis (or current flow) between them. Causing rust or corrosion to occur over time.
11. Perhaps powder coating on hardware prevents an issue? Maybe current only flows when magnetic or electric field exists in dissimilar metals area.
12. Does exposed aluminum require painting (does it merely corrode in self-limiting manner ... but not 'rust')?
Simple project I'm undertaking (install new hood struts in new vehicle).
Yet I have lots of technical questions and virtually no knowledge or experience.
Just the goal of reducing rust-type problems over the long haul (long as I can keep my vehicle in working order).
Thanks in advance for tips.
I don't mind reading & studying things for myself ... if this stuff is already discussed somewhere in a good article.
--Spiffy
Have several small questions on best rust-prevention method, if paint or primer (examples) added under replaced painted fender bolt (& washer).
Know little about rust-prevention or painting to prevent or inhibit rust.
Yet wish to handle this tiny project as well as possible.
Received Redline Tuning hood struts & preparing for install.
Looks like extremely easy bolt-on. No drilling required.
Install requires removal of factory fender bolts (one under each side of hood) ... to allow replacement with ball bolt insert (& washer) to be used as hood strut bottom mount.
A. Original factory fender bolt (& washer) is well painted (seems like Oxford White, matching exterior paint).
B. In Redline Tuning install video, looks like removal of that factory fender bolt--to replace with ball bolt insert--may expose a shiny, unpainted surface under the removed bolt & washer. [ Didn't yet remove orig bolts & washers, but suspect I'll find shiny metal, more or less. ]
1. Guessing my fender/cowl metal is aluminum? (hood seems light) That right?
2. Good idea to use paint or primer on any exposed metal under removed factory bolt & washer, before inserting new ball head bolt (for lower strut mount)?
2. If so, what's recommended to best protect against 'rust' or corrosion: primer, paint, both, or something else?
3. Should it be brushed on, or sprayed on (after masking surrounds)?
4. How many coats? Is one enough? Each coat thin?
5. Should I use a primer, or a 'final' paint?
[ Realize will be hidden under new washer (if new washer dia. no less than factor washer). ]
6. Any special type of 'paint' material ... if exposed metal is aluminum ... or steel? Does it need to have built-in rust inhibitor?
7. Can I do the prime or paint while it's cold (35 to 40F) in my garage?
8. How long to wait to properly dry (due to cold) between application and ball head bolt install? Or between applied layers (if recommended)?
9. Should I install hood struts without concern now, but later in warmer temps (springtime) remove the installed ball bolt & washer to paint underneath at that warmer time?
10. Ball head bolt and washer--strut mount hardware sets--are (I believe) black powder coated.
Somewhere in the past (on job & later in readings) I recollect learning that dissimilar metals always create some sort of automatic electrolysis (or current flow) between them. Causing rust or corrosion to occur over time.
11. Perhaps powder coating on hardware prevents an issue? Maybe current only flows when magnetic or electric field exists in dissimilar metals area.
12. Does exposed aluminum require painting (does it merely corrode in self-limiting manner ... but not 'rust')?
Simple project I'm undertaking (install new hood struts in new vehicle).
Yet I have lots of technical questions and virtually no knowledge or experience.
Just the goal of reducing rust-type problems over the long haul (long as I can keep my vehicle in working order).
Thanks in advance for tips.
I don't mind reading & studying things for myself ... if this stuff is already discussed somewhere in a good article.
--Spiffy