high steer kit question

[adkins112]

ive got a dana 44 out of a 79 f250 and the knuckles are flat top. why isnt there anything about a high steer kit for a ford dana, its all for chevys or jeeps??

 

[Bray D]

Because chevy and FSJ's are the most popular flat top knuckles. I believe your f250 D44 is the only ford housing to have flat top knuckles. That being said, you must also run 3/4 ton brakes on that knuckle, another thing that makes it less popular (affects bolt pattern).

The standard high steer arms will work, you just need both knuckles drilled, tapped, and studs installed. I think the stud spacing on the flat tops is universal.

I may be wrong, but that's what I recall from doing my high steer research.

 

[adkins112]

thanks, the drivers side already is drilled and tapped from the factory so i should only have to do the pass side, i think? i may be wrong

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Correct, just the passenger side.

 

[adkins112]

who makes a high steer kit for it? is there a spec sheet for drilling and tapping the knuckle out there somewhere?

 

[Bray D]

PartsMike, Ballistic Fabriction, Branik, etc. There's a lot of companies that make high steer arms. The only thing that could make a high steer 'kit' would be a set of arms with the studs and nuts to install them on the knuckle. If you buy through PartsMike, they can hook you up with a drag link and tie rod with all the joints if you give them measurements. You're gonna pay for it though. Better off to just buy the material and build em (drag link and tie rod).

Google "Mr. N Dana 44". This "Mr. N" guy made a Dana 44 bible if you will. Lots of info in there, I think the dimensions for drilling the holes are there somewhere too.

 

[adkins112]

that was my plan to build everything i have a couple of friends that are machinests. i thought about making my own high steer kit but for 200 bucks i can have the arms, studs, and bolds so thats probably gonna be my route. i looked at mr. Ns he has all the measurements except how far from the ball joint u have to go guess that ones on me. thanks for the help tho

 

[1badexplorer]

You don't have to run the 3/4 ton ford brakes if you don't want. You can cwap spindle, caliper mount, hub/rotor, and caliper for 76-79 1/2 ton ford stuff and it all goes on fine.

 

[AKBroncoII]

The last time I tried to do as you said, the caliper wouldn't clear the F250 knuckle as there is no built in recess like the 1/2 ton knuckles. If you did this, I want a picture.

 

[adkins112]

im not gonna do that its going to be all f-250 because i have the dana 60 rear end out of the the donor truck too, so im set 8 lug all the way around. and plus the axles i bought are complete with everything leaf springs and all even tires and wheels all for 400 bucks. i love craigs list.

 

[Bray D]

The last time I tried to do as you said, the caliper wouldn't clear the F250 knuckle as there is no built in recess like the 1/2 ton knuckles. If you did this, I want a picture.

That's what I've read. I would like a pic as well.

 

[meatheaded nucklebuster]

yeah not sure what spindles bolt up cause its a 5 stud pattern but i gotta figure somethin out for mine cause im missing one brake plate on the same axle as hes using. Im hoping ill get lucky in the junkyard cause i already got 8 lug rims and a matching rear. I was thinking about making up a bracket that uses standard chevy calipers on the front bucause they are way cheaper and more common than the dual pistons on it now plus im gonna run them on the rear 60 as well. Should be interesting to see what happens though. I just gotta get some money to buy some shafts and parts then get home from school to mock it up.

 

[1badexplorer]

yeah not sure what spindles bolt up cause its a 5 stud pattern but i gotta figure somethin out for mine cause im missing one brake plate on the same axle as hes using. Im hoping ill get lucky in the junkyard cause i already got 8 lug rims and a matching rear. I was thinking about making up a bracket that uses standard chevy calipers on the front bucause they are way cheaper and more common than the dual pistons on it now plus im gonna run them on the rear 60 as well. Should be interesting to see what happens though. I just gotta get some money to buy some shafts and parts then get home from school to mock it up.

There is a company that sales the brackets you are talking about for the chevy calipers on Ebay. If you want a stock Ford F250 caliper bracket I should have some.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

If you want disk brakes, and a bolt up conversion, and keep it 8 lug, find a 3/4 ton 8 lug full size chevy 4x4.

You can use your axle shafts, then everything from the ball joints out from the chevy. But you gotta get the brake backing plate. My 1/2 ton ford D44 used a bolt and a wedge to hold the caliper on, the chevys use a brake mounting plate and two allen bolts to hold the caliper on.

Sky makes a great high steer arm. It's called the Dana44 tall arm. It's a beefy ass arm, it lifts the drag link or tie rod about 2" above the mounting service, and it uses the factory studs so no stud kit is required, and there's no need for a steering block. The TREs used for this arm are the 1 ton GMs that everyone is so wild about. The arm is 108 bucks with shipping.

Now how are you running your steering?

Knuckle to knuckle (with high steerm arms?) tie rod with a drag that intercepts?

Drag link that runs to pass. knuckle and tie rod that intercepts near pass knuckle and runs to driver knuckle?

Drag link that runs pitman arm to driver side knuckle and knuckle to knuckle tie rod?

Good luck and remember that extended shackles in the front give a lot more leeway for the axle to move under articulation or even hitting bumps making steering sketchy. Also, make sure you get your tires balenced well. You'll really notice shit with leafs.

 

[adkins112]

If you want disk brakes, and a bolt up conversion, and keep it 8 lug, find a 3/4 ton 8 lug full size chevy 4x4.

You can use your axle shafts, then everything from the ball joints out from the chevy. But you gotta get the brake backing plate. My 1/2 ton ford D44 used a bolt and a wedge to hold the caliper on, the chevys use a brake mounting plate and two allen bolts to hold the caliper on.

Sky makes a great high steer arm. It's called the Dana44 tall arm. It's a beefy ass arm, it lifts the drag link or tie rod about 2" above the mounting service, and it uses the factory studs so no stud kit is required, and there's no need for a steering block. The TREs used for this arm are the 1 ton GMs that everyone is so wild about. The arm is 108 bucks with shipping.

Now how are you running your steering?

Knuckle to knuckle (with high steerm arms?) tie rod with a drag that intercepts?

Drag link that runs to pass. knuckle and tie rod that intercepts near pass knuckle and runs to driver knuckle?

Drag link that runs pitman arm to driver side knuckle and knuckle to knuckle tie rod?

Good luck and remember that extended shackles in the front give a lot more leeway for the axle to move under articulation or even hitting bumps making steering sketchy. Also, make sure you get your tires balenced well. You'll really notice shit with leafs.

where can i get the high steer arms you are talking about? and will it work in my ford knuckles? dont really wanna buy new knuckles. i wanna use what i got.

also i plan on running my steering from pitman arm to pass side knuckle and running the tie rod knuckle to knuckle. at least thats its so far kinda like the set up on a blazer i think. with a high steer kit defiently.

im not really worried about road manners cause shes gonna be a trailer bitch.