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High Idle out of gear -- '85 2.8 with Pinto 2150 Carb


ford4wd08

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So.... a little update for the work completed today.

I set the timing back to ~10 degrees BTDC with the vacuum unplugged from the distributor and the vacuum source plugged.

I checked timing while I gave the throttle a bump and it advanced mechanically as expected.

I then hooked up the vacuum hose back up and it made my idle erratic, I had it hooked up on a vacuum port on the carb that I believe was below carb plates so that should be manifold vacuum correct? I then tried a port on the main Tree on the intake manifold and it made the idle and timing worse.

So for now I have just left it unhooked. It appears my distributor does not like manifold vacuum. I'll have to look for a ported source to hook it too, didn't see an obvious connection to start.

I will say it is running great now and I was able to get the idle set much better as it was running a lot more stable with just the mechanical advance. No more high idle. I found bolt hole on the intake manifold that must have held something at one time, but had nothing in it now, not sure if it went all the way through the manifold to attach to the block or not, but I went ahead and plugged it with a bolt I had lying around.

It sounds great at idle and when in gear now, I'm tempted to just leave it be for a while and drive it. I also tightened the distributor hold down bolt much better this time, wow what a PITA that thing is. I finally found the correct socket extension length combo so I could get on it and snug it up.

Also, still no OD, but I can lock the TC in 3rd and running around 50 mph around town it does great. It will go back to the trans shop at the end of this month to be looked at again when I have some time off.
 


ford4wd08

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I have the vacuum advance hooked up on my conversion. I am using the original computer controlled carb. I found a port the factory had blocked off that was the proper ported vacuum port. I would make sure you are using ported vacuum and at a normal idle there is no vacuum on it.

The vacuum on this 2.8 is interesting though. I now know why the older rangers had all mechanical controls on the HVAC. I put a later model vacuum controlled heater core bypass valve on my 2.8 BII because it would leak heat into the cab during the summer. It seemed to work well at times, and then it wouldn't. Come to find out, I dog the 2.8 so much, that have no vacuum to operate the valve. I ended up having to mechanically shut the valve and it works great and really cooled the cabin off. I am guessing the little 2.3 4 cylinder would be even worse. To get anywhere you need the carb wide open, so no vacuum for anything like that to work.
You were spot on about the ported vacuum. I need to get a vacuum gage and check my various ports to see what is what on the carb.
 

RobbieD

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Good to hear of your progress. When I did my Duraspark, I also found that mine ran best without vacuum advance connected to the distributor. So I said "to hell with it", and it's been that way for 10 years now. It actually runs good, and it's been a dependable truck.
 

ford4wd08

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So.... A little more work and later in the day. I don't know why I waited so long to buy a harbor freight vacuum gage. Man what a difference. It is much easier to dial in your tune with one.

Hooked the gage up to my main tree. Great vacuum at least 19, but I felt like it could get a little more. So I started turning the mixture screws richer and got it up to 21 with a very smooth idle and it seemed to be the sweet spot. I think I've been running slightly lean this entire time.

Checked my timing it was good as well.

I checked my port on the carb I had the distributor hooked up too. It wasn't full manifold vacuum at idle, but it certainly wasn't ported. So I took my gage to one more port one one carb. 0 vacuum at idle, and moved when the throttle opened up. Bingo, the port I needed. So I hooked it up.

Noticed my idle was a little high so I was able to adjust it correctly with the idle stop screw in the carb. It seems about perfect by ear (in and out of gear, no tach in this rig).

In summary high idle was caused by timing being off because of distirbutor hooked to the wrong vacuum. Which I tried to compensate on all the other adjustments. I think I have it all squared away now.

I'll keep my gasket kit just to have.

I will replace the valve gaskets at some point soon as they are leaking, otherwise I think I'm good for now.
 

ford4wd08

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I also removed my smog pump and unhooked my belt to the AC compressor today until I get time to fix it in the spring.

Put two new belts for alternator and power steering pump as well.
 

ford4wd08

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I got the choke adjusted correctly tonight. Man what a difference. All my issues were compounded off of one or two.

With things set correctly it starts and runs great. When I get the trans straightened out I can move onto more fun things like the interior and then body and paint work.
 

kimcrwbr1

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I have the vacuum advance hooked up on my conversion. I am using the original computer controlled carb. I found a port the factory had blocked off that was the proper ported vacuum port. I would make sure you are using ported vacuum and at a normal idle there is no vacuum on it.

The vacuum on this 2.8 is interesting though. I now know why the older rangers had all mechanical controls on the HVAC. I put a later model vacuum controlled heater core bypass valve on my 2.8 BII because it would leak heat into the cab during the summer. It seemed to work well at times, and then it wouldn't. Come to find out, I dog the 2.8 so much, that have no vacuum to operate the valve. I ended up having to mechanically shut the valve and it works great and really cooled the cabin off. I am guessing the little 2.3 4 cylinder would be even worse. To get anywhere you need the carb wide open, so no vacuum for anything like that to work.
Actually they had alot of vacuum controlled components for the emissions that were run by the coffee can vacuum reservoir. if you put a check valve on the vacuum supply it will keep the vacuum pressure from back feeding from the manifold.
 
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franklin2

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Actually they had alot of vacuum controlled components for the emissions that were run by the coffee can vacuum reservoir. if you put a check valve on the vacuum supply it will keep the vacuum pressure from back feeding from the manifold.
Your right, I forgot about that reservoir. On the early BII and trucks it was over on the pass side fender. it was full of rust holes and it left with all that other mess over there on that side. I have a lot of clean empty real estate over there now on the pass side.
 

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