Help WIth 99 Ranger Engine

[SRD]

Hello. I have a 1999 Ford XLT Ranger 3.0 Gas, 170k Miles. I recently overheated and need advice on the issue. The lower hose came loose on the way home and the engine overheated. I put the hose back on correctly, added new coolant and truck started fine so I took it around the block for a test. Literally 1 min after I started driving the check engine light came on so I took it back and parked it.

Symptons: Abrupt check engine light stating a misfire code, little oil was in the radiator water, some white smoke came out when it started back up and there are no signs of visible leaks after I repalced water and coolant I ran it in place nothihng leaked.

I am not sure of the next step and if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it. I did suspect maybe a crack in engine or head issue but I persoanlly have not got that involved before.

Any advice will help.

Thanks
SRD

 

[franklin2]

What is the code? You said it was a misfire code? Does it tell you which cylinder? Concentrate on that.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I did a search for glove test... this is a copy of what RonD said...

Do the glove test
Cold engine, remove rad cap
Remove overflow hose and plug that port on rad

Put a latex glove/rubber band, or balloon, or condom over rad cap opening, so its sealed
Disable spark, unplug coil pack

Crank engine over and watch the glove
If it starts to bounce you have a blown head gasket, 100%

At that point you can remove spark plugs, 1 at a time, and crank engine over
When gloves stops bouncing last spark plug removed was from the cylinder with blown gasket
Not that it matters, both heads would need to come off because overheating has CRUSHED both head gaskets, one blew but the other won't be far behind


Anytime an engine is overheated, for any reason, head gaskets get crushed because the head metal expands too far and crushes gasket between head and block, they don't always "blow" at that time, but they are weakened, so can just be a matter of time
Head can also crack because the metal expanded too much

 

[fixizin]

... Put a latex glove/rubber band, or balloon, or condom over rad cap opening, so its sealed
Disable spark, unplug coil pack

Crank engine over and watch the glove
If it starts to bounce you have a blown head gasket, 100%

Frickin' GENIUS way to test for (most) blown head gasket scenarios, BUT... instead of disabling SPARK, wouldn't it be better to trip your Inertial FUEL Cutoff switch, so the injectors aren't pouring fuel into non-firing cylinders?... just wondering...

 

[pjtoledo]

tripping the fuel cutoff won't relieve pressure already in the lines. the injectors will still add fuel until the pressure drops off.
some engines can idle with pressure dropping to 20-25 psi.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Frickin' GENIUS way to test for (most) blown head gasket scenarios, BUT... instead of disabling SPARK, wouldn't it be better to trip your Inertial FUEL Cutoff switch, so the injectors aren't pouring fuel into non-firing cylinders?... just wondering...

@RonD is the genius... I just spread his word.

 

[RonD]

Frickin' GENIUS way to test for (most) blown head gasket scenarios, BUT... instead of disabling SPARK, wouldn't it be better to trip your Inertial FUEL Cutoff switch, so the injectors aren't pouring fuel into non-firing cylinders?... just wondering...

Not the inertia switch, once any inertia switch is "tripped" once it will become overly sensitive to tripping again, the "reset" button is there so a vehicle can be moved from accident scene, if its drive-able
inertia switch should be replaced once tripped, but usually isn't, lol, so going off a curb or slamming a door can trip it again

You can pull out fuel pump relay or fuel pump fuse, if "washing" cylinders is a concern
But for this type of test the cranking time is really not long enough to be a concern

For a compression test of each cylinder I would disable fuel, that's some long cranking time

 

[fixizin]

El RonD has spoken... me furiously scribbling on post-its stuck to otherwise useless Haynes manual...