Help with 99 Ranger Diagnosis....

[SRD]

Thanks for looking!

Background: I have taken the truck to 3 Shop locations looking for an answer and have received 3 different answers so I am coming here for any thoughts on the issues. FORD will not look at the truck; they say they don’t take anything that old anymore and unless it has all motor craft parts it will be rejected.

Symptoms: The truck "Jerks" but ONLY when breaking and has gotten worse over time, usually slow breaking; also has developed a "Squeal" that is getting louder and louder but reduces once drive a bit....Sound seems to be in sequence with the tire rotations.

Local Shops have concluded: All 3 said the Breaks are Good and can't be the issue; One claimed Leaf Springs, Others said Differential/Rear End issue but can’t really say. Other said can’t find anything wrong but recognizes the symptoms.

So, I am at a loss.... Anyone has any ideas of how to determine the correct issue would be helpful.....I have checked Leaf Springs and they seem good, under truck nothing look broken can’t find anything loose....

Thanks for reading. Any ideas of what to do is appreciated...
SRD

 

[RonD]

1999 3.0l Ranger with automatic, 2WD
Rear wheel ABS or 4-wheel ABS?

Define "jerks"

Is this felt thru brake pedal, are there multiple "jerks" on one stop, or just the one "jerk"
Any pulsing in brake pedal

Does "jerk" have a noise as well or just the motion of, I assume, slowing faster


"Brakes are good"???
Is that all they said
A sticky caliper or slave can easily cause a "jerk" when braking


Is "squealing" noise engine RPM related or Wheel RPM related
i.e. does it only "squeal" when wheels are turning and does the noise change with wheel speed

You may have a slip joint on drive shaft, these need to be opened and lubed, but most describe this as a "clunk" not a "jerk"

 

[SRD]

Hello. Thanks for the Reply.

The "Jerk" might be related to the "Clunk" noise in rear area not felt at brake pedal itself but from rear end area....I can feel it but coming from back cannot pinpoint. One guy mentioned "Differential" and broken "
Pin" or "Wheel Bearing"?? maybe...something inside possibly cause this? NOT a PRO at all never dealt with anything Rear End so Im out to learn what I can to solve issue.....another shop said thats all good.....so lost again.

1. "Squeal" seems to be Wheel related, correlates to wheel rotations/revolutions.
2. Noise changes in the sense it starts out getting pretty loud with rotations of the tire....seems to lax once warmed up a bit but comes in also when braking.

Thanks again.
SRD

 

[SRD]

Sorry, I am not very mechanically articulate....Shops just said brakes came in fine both front and rear at all 3 shops; so I just assumed they checked it since they try like hell to sell you anything they can....they all said no charge sorry they cant really help....

 

[RonD]

If the "jerk" seems to be toward rear then just have the rear drive shaft u-joints replace since you are not a DIY guy, not too expensive

Differential issues are few and far between but u-joints do wear out, and after u-joints are "taken off the table"(replaced) then any noise in the rear may indeed be differential

"Squeal" in the front would be worn down brake pad, there is a thin metal strip on the inner brake pad that will start to touch the rotor, as the rotor spins it makes a squealing/scraping noise, louder when brakes applied as its push against rotor, called a "wear indicator"
Comes and goes until brake pads get really thin

If you have a jack you can jack up each front wheel and spin it, should hear/feel pads rubbing a bit
Then press brake pedal down a few times and spin again, should spin the same not any tighter/harder to spin, if so caliper is sticking

 

[SRD]

Ok, cool...so I will take your advice and start checking it all out...

1. Grease Drive Shaft/Yoke....
2. Replace drive shaft u-joints...
3. Check Brakes as you state...the shops may have missed soemthing...stuck etc...as you said.

Thanks again for the advice.....I know its a process; I appreciate the time you spent helping me.

SRD

 

[O No 3.0!]

In the last 2 years i have had the misfortune of having 3 different vehicles doing very similar things to what you describe. All 3 were bad u-joints.

 

[SRD]

Hello. Ok, I jacked up the truck placed two jack stands under it....then tried to put into gear. Soon as I went into gear you hear a "Pop" and the result is the passenger wheel cover came off and a wire broke as seen in image...I grabbed a hold of the center and it seems rather loose.....it makes a noise. Is this normal? I had taken off rear tires before placing into gear....

Here is Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/eF5ZiQ94hUpByEUj9

 

[SRD]

Here is a still image. Thanks.

 

[Earl43P]

Slap that removed drum back on and drive it to a reputable local mechanic that does brake jobs. Have them do both sides. Expect to pay about $300, might be more if your parking brake cables need replaced too. Hard to tell from the photo.

This is a common, standard drum brake part failure that any competent brake shop can fix.

 

[rubydist]

Also have them check the fluid in the differential - the noise when you wiggle the hub sounds like the gears are dry.

 

[SRD]

OK, so I went to three shops and they all said brakes are good and not the issue, now I check them once myself and they fall apart on the spot......so not sure how reputable/reliable they were at diagnosis...lol. Being a shop does not mean they now anything really or will be honest and direct.......Guess I wll check around does not look hard to do from video rear brake job...........Ok, so you indicated to check fluid in differential may be dry..? Would the differential being "Dry" cause it to "Jerk" when trying to brake? Differential has a plug when checked other day it had fluid in it...Thanks for looking. Narrowing this all down is very educational.....My main issue now knowing brakes are in fact bad is the "Jerking" when slow braking...but maybe replacing them will fix this issue.....if not next step is "Universal Drive Shaft Joints"? I checked drive shaft and could not get a wiggle at all but am not very strong...

 

[BuckHunter]

If the rear differential has fluid to the bottom of the check hole its full. Probably wouldn't hurt to have it changed. As stated above check around and have new rear brakes put on both sides and front pads checked. Hopefully that will solve your issues.

 

[SRD]

FIXED. Thanks for the Help....I replaced all hardware components and rear brake shoes, and it fixed the issue. When we removed the wheel hubs it was clear the 2 adjuster cable wires snapped, along with the rocker arm and several springs... and one spacer was missing totally...

This is why I am hesitant about shops.......I went to three and all said Rear Brakes are...."Fine"...even after I indicated the issue, and they test drove. Had anyone taken of these hubs it was clear they were shattered. I take it a lot of shops place restrictions etc..... have to make $$$ but if you didn't look; you didn't look, right?

Thanks for all the help here when I have an issue....it does help.

SRD