2.3L ('83-'97) Help identify part and runnibility

[bryanb]

wow. Haven’t been here in a long while with a problem. Knock on wood…..

So I was a good boy and decided to drop the transmission fluid pan to replace the long over due filter and fluid. Much messier with one person

anyway, putting a funnel in the dipstick tube, seems to have broke something. And now truck runs way more sputtery. Threatening to die at a stop light. Sputters at the 2-3 upshift. At first I wasn’t sure what this item connects to. But it must be vacuum. In fact I just now found the other broken end in the wiring loom on the top of the firewall.

in the photo, it’s the round canister liking thing, dangling from the vacuum line, right by the dipstick.

what is this, and would it produce a vacuum leak that would affect it running weird?

 

[RonD]

Actually looks like an older MAP sensor, but in any case yes its important, and yes its also a vacuum leak
The hard plastic vacuum hose with elbow broke off at the elbow, not uncommon as the line gets brittle with age
The broken part of the hard line is the vacuum leak, not seen in picture, the part in the picture NEEDS the vacuum to work

You will need to get some regular rubber vacuum hose of the right size
Take off the elbow and get the size that fit on in its place
Follow the broken hard line to its connection on the intake manifold, and thats how long the new vacuum line will need to be

 

[bryanb]

I figured it was a leak, but also wanted to know if I messed something up changing the tranny fluid, and if said leak would produce the sputtering out, and such...

And more importantly, after not finding anything in the Shop Manual, without reading it cover to cover, or hard evidence online, was getting real curious as to what im looking at! Was guessing the item that its attached to is the MAP, but no hard proof. The little canister is a question mark too.

Thanks!

 

[RonD]

Yes, a vacuum leak will cause running issue

Look at the vacuum diagram on the rad support, identify what you can, and then whatever is left will be that part

In a 1989 2.3l Ranger, I would expect MAF sensor but I think Ford kept MAP sensor for a year or 2 as well
The "can" doesn't make sense for a MAP sensor, but might act as a reservoir, no check valve, to allow for more gradual "engine load" data because MAF sensors were fairly new at that time and maybe not fully trusted for altitude changes or load changes

There are only a few 3 wires sensors on any engine
Throttle sensor<<for sure not that
EGR position sensor<<< which is possible for a 1989 Ford, detects vacuum pressure at EGR valve
MAP sensor

Only the EGR or MAP(or BMAP) sensor would need vacuum hose

MAF sensor 4 wires, Crank sensor 4 wires, O2 sensors 4 wires, other sensors are 2 wires

 

[bryanb]

Yes, a vacuum leak will cause running issue

Look at the vacuum diagram on the rad support, identify what you can, and then whatever is left will be that part

In a 1989 2.3l Ranger, I would expect MAF sensor but I think Ford kept MAP sensor for a year or 2 as well
The "can" doesn't make sense for a MAP sensor, but might act as a reservoir, no check valve, to allow for more gradual "engine load" data because MAF sensors were fairly new at that time and maybe not fully trusted for altitude changes or load changes

There are only a few 3 wires sensors on any engine
Throttle sensor<<for sure not that
EGR position sensor<<< which is possible for a 1989 Ford, detects vacuum pressure at EGR valve
MAP sensor

Only the EGR or MAP(or BMAP) sensor would need vacuum hose

MAF sensor 4 wires, Crank sensor 4 wires, O2 sensors 4 wires, other sensors are 2 wires

Yep! MAP sensor, and the little can is called a vacuum reservoir on the diagram. The diagram is mostly still there, on the radiator support, but very dirty, and hard to read!

Got some vacuum hose from the store, and took the little elbow fitting off and attached hose to the reservoir directly. Followed the hard line that I found in the wiring hardness loom; Followed it back to the main distribution block on the intake, like the diagram says. Its part of a smaller rubber or plastic block with other vacuum lines. So, just broke the line off about 4" from the main block, and attached the hose. Truck runs great now!

In fact im questioning that, that wasn't broken off before, and I just broke off the end of the elbow last weekend. Its never run this well, the entire time I've had it.