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Help finding correct U-Joints on 88 Ranger 4WD


Kegworth

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Hey everyone. I've exhausted myself trying to find and order the right U-Joints, and when i finally thought I got it right, they were wrong. So to try and avoid another incorrect order could someone please give me a hand with getting these sizes right. Attached are pictures of the driveshaft(s) and measurements of the yolks. I ordered two moog superstrength 269's. That was from what i could understand, the correct ones for at least two of these ones on the driveshaft. When I hold them up to the existing ones (while mounted), the caps extend far beyond the existing ones. So i assumed they're wrong, but it just occurred to me that maybe they compress a lot?

It looks like the far ends should be the same size U-joint, and the center one w flange style bolts near the support bracket is a bit smaller.

Truck is 4WD, 1988. Driveshaft size is 2.5", and wheel base is 125". Any help would be greatly appreciated to get these three replaced. Thank you!

55097
 

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franklin2

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Have you looked at rockauto? I see where there is an option for a 269 joint at the rear for a supercab pickup, but it's for a automatic transmission truck. Is yours automatic or standard? They give you the measurements of the yoke span and some have the cap diameter. I think in your pictures you have your caliper in MM? You need to change it to inches.

At least you know moog 269 doesn't fit. I see moog 369, moog 437G, moog 280, moog 237, moog 240. Some of these could possibly be eliminated if you know your transmission type. I think some of them are the same, just a different heavier design. When you narrow it down to several possibilities, then look up the dimensions on the internet and see which ones match up. The measurements are going to be cap to cap, not out there on the outer part of the yoke where you have your calipers in the picture. I would look the u-joint up, and then pre-set the caliper to the drawing dimension and lock it, and then hold it up to the u-joints you have and see if they are close to fitting. I think the ones that won't fit will be obviously different.
 

Kegworth

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Thanks for the reply! The trans is Automatic. Yeah i figured process of elimination would be the best plan of action. But thought i'd inquire here to see if anyone could give me hard facts before i go ordering more. 😅
 

franklin2

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Typical Ford. Nobody likes their job to be made harder than it has to be. Just think of all the different yokes and driveshaft assemblies they had for all the different models that year. I can only assume they had supplier problems or something. Or I guess it could be Ford being Ford.
 

SenorNoob

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I've found the best way to get u-joints is to take the shaft with me to the parts store when I go to borrow the tool.
 

Shran

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All three u-joints should be the same size, I believe that DANA 25443X Spicer Select; Greasable or whatever cross references with that should be what you need. I believe that includes Moog 240, 237, and 437G. I would recommend the Dana brand ones if you can get them...they are the best u-joints on the market and reasonably priced.

FYI the rear shaft in 4x4 trucks up to '89 uses 1210 "style" u-joints and the front has 1310s. You can tell the difference because the 1310 style is wider overall. 2wd trucks had 1310 joints in the rear, 4x4 front axles also had 1210 joints in the axle shafts but they had different caps. It's a little weird and confusing when you start adding part numbers from various manufacturers.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Both my standard cab automatic 4x4's used the tiny 1210 joints.

I agree with @Shran, 25443X (5443X on rockauto) look to be the right ones.
 

Kegworth

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Upon doing research on this, i've come across the highly regarded one piece driveshaft swap. Soooo. I think i'm gonna do that while i got the thing out. That way i don't have to replace three u-joints AND the carrier bearing. Hopefully just two and will be infinitely happier without the extra vibration from the three piece driveshaft and being lifted.

Anyone else done this?
 

Shran

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Many have done it, I have not. I would say go for it. IIRC they stopped putting two piece shafts in trucks somewhere in the mid 90's anyway.
 

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The one-piece driveshaft swap is an excellent modification. If yours has the little 1210 u-joints, you may need to swap the driveshaft flange on the shaft itself for one having the smaller bolt circle to fit your existing axle flange (later trucks have a larger flange), but with the correct part(s) it should be a bolt-in swap other than possibly needing to remove the carrier bearing bracket from your frame crossmember (or the whole crossmember itself) if you are lifted.

1998 was first year to have the one-piece shafts. Try to find a steel shaft from a '98-'00 truck, these will require the least amount of work to swap in.
 

Kegworth

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The one-piece driveshaft swap is an excellent modification. If yours has the little 1210 u-joints, you may need to swap the driveshaft flange on the shaft itself for one having the smaller bolt circle to fit your existing axle flange (later trucks have a larger flange), but with the correct part(s) it should be a bolt-in swap other than possibly needing to remove the carrier bearing bracket from your frame crossmember (or the whole crossmember itself) if you are lifted.

1998 was first year to have the one-piece shafts. Try to find a steel shaft from a '98-'00 truck, these will require the least amount of work to swap in.
Whats the difference between the 98-00 ones vs the later years? I was about to buy an aluminum one from a 2004. Reasons why I shouldn't?
 

4x4junkie

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'98-'00 already has one of the smaller flanges you need for yours (at the transfer case end). This means you would only need to chase down one additional part, rather than two. The '98-'00 shafts are also a smaller diameter, so fewer clearance issues (not having to trim fuel tank skid plate as much, possibly being able to keep the CB crossmember, etc.).
 

Kegworth

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'98-'00 already has one of the smaller flanges you need for yours (at the transfer case end). This means you would only need to chase down one additional part, rather than two. The '98-'00 shafts are also a smaller diameter, so fewer clearance issues (not having to trim fuel tank skid plate as much, possibly being able to keep the CB crossmember, etc.).
cant i just swap it from the old driveshaft?
 

4x4junkie

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No, they won't fit. The u-joints are much bigger on the one-piece shaft.
 


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