• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Help diagnosing 4WD noises!


Kegworth

Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Messages
95
Reaction score
18
Points
8
Location
Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Hello all! So i've been doing a bunch of repairs to the truck (1988 4x4 2.9 Ranger) and most recently, i did the one piece driveshaft swap. All went well there, and replaced all driveshaft u-joints in the process (2 in the front shaft, 2 in the rear). Did not change axle u-joints...yet. This problem however was occurring before the swap too but just wanted to put that out there.

Anyways. I have touch 4wd in the headliner button. When i'm stopped, and i click engage, the light comes on (no light on dash btw) but it def engages because it got me out of a muddy grass area. But it makes some scary noises when i'm moving. I haven't driven it above 5mph, just used it long enough to get me out of a slippery situation a couple times. But i have an audio clip from the outside of the truck of me engaging it and then getting out of a little ditch. But the clunking is very clear and was hoping someone can help me make some sense of what exactly is going on! Doesn't sound good.

Thanks for all of your help and input always!

Audio Clip: Ranger 4WD clunking
 


dvdswan

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Feb 11, 2021
Messages
2,835
Reaction score
2,904
Points
113
Location
Seattle, WA
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ranger XLT 2WD
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
So when its making these noises what is the vehicle doing...
Is the suspension flexing a little/lot?
Are the front wheels turning left/right?
Is the noise from the front axle, trans, or t/case area?

The noise sounds like several things to me, I know its not, its just a what it sounds like..

Like a parking pawl trying to engage while the vehicle is moving slow.
Very dry bushings flexing.
Like a loose chain inside the t/case that jumps once in a while.
 

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
3,982
Reaction score
2,502
Points
113
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
It could be the axle u joints. TTB's dont like being steered.
 

Shadowrider6661

D RANGED
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
ASE Certified Tech
Joined
Aug 23, 2017
Messages
331
Reaction score
129
Points
43
Age
63
Location
Off grid Northern Arizona.
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
Stock
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
4"
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
33 x 12.50 x 15
My credo
Drive it, Break it, Fix it, REPEAT !
I don't know if this would work but, I would remove the front driveshaft and engage the transfer case and see if the problem is there. Then I would reconnect the shaft and proceed from there. I'm probably wrong, but its just a thought. "Unsolicited thoughts" from someone with too much time on his hands.
 

Kegworth

Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Messages
95
Reaction score
18
Points
8
Location
Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
I don't know if this would work but, I would remove the front driveshaft and engage the transfer case and see if the problem is there. Then I would reconnect the shaft and proceed from there. I'm probably wrong, but its just a thought. "Unsolicited thoughts" from someone with too much time on his hands.
Haha wish I’d thought to try that while i just had both driveshafts out!
If i pull it, engage 4WD, what would i be looking/listening for to distinguish an issue w the transfer case?
 

wildbill23c

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
3,917
Reaction score
577
Points
113
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
The clunk at about 3 seconds sounds like the initial transfer case engagement shift and I'm guessing with that clunk you are either moving or have slop in the u-joints or the ring and pinion up front.

The other noises could be several things, could be worn suspension components, springs, u-joints, an axle shaft not fully seated in the differential, a bad hub up front, hard to really say from just an audio sample. Pull your front drive shaft off, throw it in 4WD again and see if the problem still persists, if not its something up front in the axle somewhere, a bad locking hub (manual or automatic) can make popping sounds when they go bad, a bad u-joint in the front axle can make popping noises too as they bind up while trying to flex or while trying to turn. Hope you aren't in 4WD on dry pavement and trying to turn that'll really make a mess of things and can cause those noises as the drivetrain is trying to turn at different speeds and can't due to the stress of being on a high traction surface.
 

Kegworth

Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Messages
95
Reaction score
18
Points
8
Location
Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Gotcha, okay I’ll try that soon! And that was going from grass turning onto dry pavement.
One note, i do have manual hubs. I have them in the lock position, but I’ve noticed that one of them I’m able to keep turning and it’ll keep locking into a position. ie: rotate clockwise into “lock” position, but can continue that rotation into “unlock” and so on. Is that normal behavior? Or should it require just clockwise into lock, and counter clock wise to unlock?
 

Shadowrider6661

D RANGED
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
ASE Certified Tech
Joined
Aug 23, 2017
Messages
331
Reaction score
129
Points
43
Age
63
Location
Off grid Northern Arizona.
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
Stock
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
4"
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
33 x 12.50 x 15
My credo
Drive it, Break it, Fix it, REPEAT !
I would like to thank wildbill23c for answering the question you asked. I wasn't sure if what I suggested would work, hopefully it helps.
 

wildbill23c

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
3,917
Reaction score
577
Points
113
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Gotcha, okay I’ll try that soon! And that was going from grass turning onto dry pavement.
One note, i do have manual hubs. I have them in the lock position, but I’ve noticed that one of them I’m able to keep turning and it’ll keep locking into a position. ie: rotate clockwise into “lock” position, but can continue that rotation into “unlock” and so on. Is that normal behavior? Or should it require just clockwise into lock, and counter clock wise to unlock?
Umm that hub should not just keep turning, it should turn to lock and stop, and from lock to free and stop, shouldn't just keep on turning. That's probably almost 100% certain your noise issue...the other issue is turning from grass onto dry pavement, that's going to bind up the system and cause all sorts of bad noises.

Clockwise to lock, counter clockwise to unlock, no further turning in either direction should be permitted with a properly functioning hub.
 

Kegworth

Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Messages
95
Reaction score
18
Points
8
Location
Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Umm that hub should not just keep turning, it should turn to lock and stop, and from lock to free and stop, shouldn't just keep on turning. That's probably almost 100% certain your noise issue...the other issue is turning from grass onto dry pavement, that's going to bind up the system and cause all sorts of bad noises.

Clockwise to lock, counter clockwise to unlock, no further turning in either direction should be permitted with a properly functioning hub.
Great to know. Just my driver side hub keeps going. Should i just replace both hubs while at it?
 

wildbill23c

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
3,917
Reaction score
577
Points
113
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Great to know. Just my driver side hub keeps going. Should i just replace both hubs while at it?
I'd recommend replacing both usually they come in a set anyways, at least the ones I've replaced have. If one hub is shot, most likely the other is going to follow shortly LOL. They're pretty dang easy to swap. I had to replace one on my 88 Bronco 2, I just bought the set.

 

Kegworth

Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Messages
95
Reaction score
18
Points
8
Location
Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Do i need just the caps or the whole unit with the actual part that bolts to hub? Preferred brand other than warn? The WARN ones are a bit pricey

EDITTTTT; just realized that you linked a set of the Mile Marker hubs. Just looked straight up like a targeted ad lol so i ignored it. So recommend those over others?

Edit2: ha. Looks like u linked the 428 which is for 90-98 rangers and the 427’s are for my year (88). They’re $162. for the set. Should i rock those then?
 
Last edited:

wildbill23c

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
3,917
Reaction score
577
Points
113
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Do i need just the caps or the whole unit with the actual part that bolts to hub? Preferred brand other than warn? The WARN ones are a bit pricey

EDITTTTT; just realized that you linked a set of the Mile Marker hubs. Just looked straight up like a targeted ad lol so i ignored it. So recommend those over others?

Edit2: ha. Looks like u linked the 428 which is for 90-98 rangers and the 427’s are for my year (88). They’re $162. for the set. Should i rock those then?
You need the whole hub assembly.

You wanted cheaper than Warn, the Mile Marker hubs are cheaper than Warn by a lot and work just as well.

$162 for a set is pretty reasonable compared to almost $300 for the ones that say Warn.

I've had the Mile Marker hubs for almost 5 years now on my 88 Bronco 2, no problems at all with them. You just pay more for the Warn name just like you do for their Winches and anything else that says Warn, doesn't mean they work any better or last any longer and for double the price I'm not going to sport their name on a hub knob LOL.

Yes, you'll need the 427's if that's what fits your Ranger, not sure why it linked the 428's because your Ranger and my Bronco 2 use the same 427 style hubs LOL.
 

rumblecloud

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2020
Messages
1,391
Reaction score
1,119
Points
113
Location
48022
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
1-1/2 inch front leveling
Total Drop
Stock
Tire Size
31/10.50/15
My credo
What's the worst that could happen?
Hopefully the bad hub fixes your problem. The sounds you recorded sound a lot like a bad hub bearing. I just replaced the two front hubs on my on my wife's Sport Trac. Sounded like the front end was falling off - popping and cracking.
 

Kegworth

Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Messages
95
Reaction score
18
Points
8
Location
Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Replaced the locking hubs with the new ones from Mile Marker. Fit like a glove and seem to lock as they should. I went to a neighbors house with long uphill gravel driveway to test out the 4WD. Def seems to be an improvement, didn't hear much popping sounds except at what seemed like a regular interval while going straight at low speed. Couldn't differentiate between sides, which made me wonder if it could be the transfer case chain. I read a few posts / watched videos about how the chain inside the transfer case becomes loose on these older models and slips. Sounded like that, reminiscent of the early days of riding a bicycle and switching gears / ie; chain slipping a bit whilst jumping to the next sprocket - but amplified obviously.

How likely is it that could be the/an underlying issue?
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Members online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Shran
April Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top