HELP!!! Cant get the Engine Separated from the Trans......

[blbzeckhart]

Remove all the bolts holding engine in place then start to pull engine out with hoist.

when it stops moving out, grab it and shake the hell out of it.

If you can you can try and smak the area where the guide pins are stuck with a big brass hammer to jar them loose.

Yep, tried all that. No success. Thanks!

 

[blbzeckhart]

Have you thought of using 2 heavy duty putty knives ? It's worked for me in the past. You could also use 2 gasket scrapers. Either of them can be tapped in with a mallet a little at at time on each side without damaging either the engine or bell housing. Welcome to the club.

No, and thanks for your tip! Love being part of the club!

 

[Dirtman]

Have you tried cursing at it?

 

[Roert42]

Yep, tried all that. No success. Thanks!

Probably just need a bigger hammer.

If you have a big enough hammer, even if there are still some bolts, they will come apart.

 

[Dirtman]

I'm sure you've done this. But soaking the dowel pins and the whole damn thing in penetrating fluid never hurts.

 

[snoranger]

Raise the engine/trans a little. Put a floor jack with a block of wood on it under the bellhousing. Lift and quickly lower the engine bunch of times. The weight of the engine and the rocking up and down should break it free.

 

[dvdswan]

Have you tried cursing at it?

Or calling it a piece of crap Dodge? My Chevy would cooperate after saying something like that. Trade it for ... Whatever.

 

[blbzeckhart]

I'm sure you've done this. But soaking the dowel pins and the whole damn thing in penetrating fluid never hurts.

I have. I'm trying to find Aerokroil by kana. Locally. I've heard this is the best penetrating oil ever. Ive hosed it down with PB blaster. Going to try some additional tips heard here. I like the putty knife idea mentioned by someone

 

[blbzeckhart]

There’s supposed to be bolts through the dowel pins.

No there is not, at least on the OHV auto. Can't, it's hollow all the way through.

 

[snoranger]

No there is not, at least on the OHV auto. Can't, it's hollow all the way through.

Ok... You’re right and I’m wrong.

Good luck. I hope you get your engine out.

 

[blbzeckhart]

Ok... You’re right and I’m wrong.

Good luck. I hope you get your engine out.

I'm not arguing, there are no bolts in my 1994 Ford ranger that go through the dowel pin guides. Ford does not show it either.
So with no bolts holding that engine together, it should separate. Just old and infused. I'm just trying to find a gentle or aggressive way to release those guide sleeves?

 

[ericbphoto]

I have. I'm trying to find Aerokroil by kana. Locally. I've heard this is the best penetrating oil ever. Ive hosed it down with PB blaster. Going to try some additional tips heard here. I like the putty knife idea mentioned by someone

Aerokroil is great. My second favorite is PBBlaster.

 

[MikeG]

Sawzall, cutting torch, dynamite.....

"think ya used enough dynamite there Butch?????"

 

[adsm08]

I'm not arguing, there are no bolts in my 1994 Ford ranger that go through the dowel pin guides. Ford does not show it either.
So with no bolts holding that engine together, it should separate. Just old and infused. I'm just trying to find a gentle or aggressive way to release those guide sleeves?

There SHOULD have been bolts through the dowels. Doesn't matter if you, or whatever catalog you are looking at says so or not. If you look in the holes on the block they are threaded, and should have had bolts that were about 1/2 an inch longer than the other 4 in the block, similar length to the two in the pan.

If you are sure that all 8 holes are empty get a pry bar in between the block and bell and start working it. It is not uncommon for the torque converter to get stuck and make it hard to seperate the two assemblies, or the dowels to get corroded into place. If all else fails get the drive shafts out, trans cross member out, and get aggressive with trying to tear that trans off the block.

 

[blbzeckhart]

There SHOULD have been bolts through the dowels. Doesn't matter if you, or whatever catalog you are looking at says so or not. If you look in the holes on the block they are threaded, and should have had bolts that were about 1/2 an inch longer than the other 4 in the block, similar length to the two in the pan.

If you are sure that all 8 holes are empty get a pry bar in between the block and bell and start working it. It is not uncommon for the torque converter to get stuck and make it hard to seperate the two assemblies, or the dowels to get corroded into place. If all else fails get the drive shafts out, trans cross member out, and get aggressive with trying to tear that trans off the block.

I appreciate the feedback and I am just taking in knowledge from everyone that might have experienced my issue. I took out all 6 Bolts that hold the trans to the Engine on my 94 4.0L OHV Auto 4WD, and all 3 sets of 2 bolts were different. I plan to get more aggressive with all the tips and tricks I have been hearing on this forum and I thank you al!. This is not my first Rodeo with Automotive like some, although I am not a mechanic. I have been in the Parts business for 20+ years soley as a Parts Specialist. I have been working on my own vehicles just as long. I currently work as the Parts Specialist for a Bodyshop, but have worked parts in a Dealership on the Retail and Wholsale Counter for years. Any and all help is appreciated. I've talked with techs that I work with and they have not run into this exact situation. They have given me great tips and tricks but I still have not been able to break free this Engine from the Trans to lift it out? Its hooked on the Cherry picker swaying from side to side, back and forth but will not Separate from the Trans..........