HELP!!! Cant get the Engine Separated from the Trans......

[blbzeckhart]

Hello, I have a 1994 Ford Ranger, 4.0L OHV, Automatic, 4WD, Vin code X
Truck recently overheated, Coolant problems (all gummed up) Barely runs, blows white smoke cloud, Milky Oil. Def, blown head gasket, or warped Manifold, worse case cracked block. Anyway, decided to replace Motor. I already have the replacement. Exact match. Disassembled all wiring, accesories, ect. Hooked up to Cherry picker, wont separate from Trans. It is thourougly STUCK.
NEED HELP!
Removed all 6 Bell housing bolts from trans to motor.
Removed Starter
Removed all 4 Nuts from Torque Converter to Flex Plate
Supported Trans with jack, lifted Motor, wont separate?
Apparently it is stuck on the 2 Alignment Dowels. I have sprayed with PB blaster, I have tried gently prying on flew plate as I turn it to loosen, I have heated the Dowel Pin area, I cant really get anything in anywhere to pry. Its been married for 27 years to eachother. I have pics and video of what I am up against and what Ive tried.
If anyone has ran into this problem on an older ranger, please let me know what to do. I would have had this motor out 2 weekends ago, if it would have just separated!

 

[Dirtman]

You said you removed all 6 bell housing bolts, have you tried removing the 7th?

 

[snoranger]

I had to steal one of Petroliumjunkies pics...
There are 8 bolts, if you’re counting the 2 at the bottom that go into the oil pan.

 

[blbzeckhart]

According to Ford, there are only 6 on this particular make and model. Others have also said only 6, and I just dont see 2 more anywhere?? I took out two at the bottom, 2 in the middle, and two at the top

 

[Shran]

Did the two pieces loosen up at all when you took the bolts out and wiggled everything around? Sometimes it takes a lot of wiggling to get the dowel pins to let go.

There are definitely six bolts above the starter, three per side. snoranger's pic is accurate, on the older trucks there are two little bolts on the very bottom that hold the block plate onto the bellhousing but on newer trucks they go into the oil pan. Are you SURE you got all of them? Compare that pic with the bolts you've taken out.

Is the exhaust disconnected? That might be part of the problem if you haven't done that... there is a hanger back by the transmission mount and if that's still there and the Y pipe/manifolds are still bolted on, nothing will move much.

 

[gw33gp]

There are 7 bolts on the 4.0L engine. Normally only one of the two at the very top are used depending on if it is a OHV or SOHC engine. Either of the two at the very top are difficult to get to. It is best to rotate the transmission down a little to get some clearance to get up there. Then use a very long extension with a wobbler or universal to get the socket up there. I don't have an extension that long and use several of the longest extensions I have.

 

[blbzeckhart]

I had to steal one of Petroliumjunkies pics...
There are 8 bolts, if you’re counting the 2 at the bottom that go into the oil pan.
View attachment 57194

This pic is not the same trans (Bell housing)
Mine only has 6 bolts.
4 above the dowel pins
2 at the bottom.
This is the back of the replacement engine.

 

[blbzeckhart]

Did the two pieces loosen up at all when you took the bolts out and wiggled everything around? Sometimes it takes a lot of wiggling to get the dowel pins to let go.

There are definitely six bolts above the starter, three per side. snoranger's pic is accurate, on the older trucks there are two little bolts on the very bottom that hold the block plate onto the bellhousing but on newer trucks they go into the oil pan. Are you SURE you got all of them? Compare that pic with the bolts you've taken out.

Is the exhaust disconnected? That might be part of the problem if you haven't done that... there is a hanger back by the transmission mount and if that's still there and the Y pipe/manifolds are still bolted on, nothing will move much.

I cut the ypipe at manifolds and cat. Bolts never budged.
Started unbolted, 4 torque converter nuts removed. Stuck on dowel pins.

 

[snoranger]

According to Ford, there are only 6 on this particular make and model. Others have also said only 6, and I just dont see 2 more anywhere?? I took out two at the bottom, 2 in the middle, and two at the top

By “2 at the bottom”, do you mean the 2 going into the oil pan or the 2 about even with the starter?

This pic is not the same trans (Bell housing)
Mine only has 6 bolts.
4 above the dowel pins
2 at the bottom.
This is the back of the replacement engine.
View attachment 57214

Yes... it’s the same. It’s a 4.0l auto bellhousing in the pic. There are 2 different 4.0l bolt pattens. The OHV and the SOHC use slightly different bolt patterns. The only difference is the top passenger side bolt is moved about 2.5” to clear the timing chain on the SOHC. (Some transmissions have both holes, but only use 1 of the 2.)

In your pic, there are supposed to be bolts at all of the circles (that’s 6) and 2 where the arrows point at the dowel pins (that would be 8 total).

 

[blbzeckhart]

Mine is the OHV.
There are no bolts where the dowel pins are. It is hollow all the way through.
The 2 at the bottom I'm referring to in the oil pan.
After the 2 bolts are removed with starter, There are only 6 bolts Total.

 

[snoranger]

Mine is the OHV.
There are no bolts where the dowel pins are. It is hollow all the way through.
The 2 at the bottom I'm referring to in the oil pan.
After the 2 bolts are removed with starter, There are only 6 bolts Total.

There’s supposed to be bolts through the dowel pins.

 

[blbzeckhart]

Well, the Dowel Pins or guides are hollow, There are no bolts in there. I removed all bolts. What method can be used to release the guides which marry the engine to trans? Thats the only thing holding it together I can see. I cannot get a pry bar in there?? Plus Bell housing is aluminum so I can see by trying to jam things inbetween it is warping a little. I'm trying to be careful as possible. I saw one video on a Mazda 4.0 removal, one guide came out with engine, and other stayed in trans side. I dont care how it comes out. I have nice guides on the new motor. Problem is there is no where to pry and get leverage. Its 4wd so pulling trans out together is more a headache with the transfer case and all. Plus all bolts, to driveshaft, and trans mounts, and transfer case all look like more problems. Any suggestions? I will post some pics and video if it lets me of some stuff I've tried. It just dont make sense, it is this stuck?

 

[blbzeckhart]

Pic of both sides where guide pins are stuck

 

[Roert42]

Remove all the bolts holding engine in place then start to pull engine out with hoist.

when it stops moving out, grab it and shake the hell out of it.

If you can you can try and smak the area where the guide pins are stuck with a big brass hammer to jar them loose.

 

[Shadowrider6661]

Have you thought of using 2 heavy duty putty knives ? It's worked for me in the past. You could also use 2 gasket scrapers. Either of them can be tapped in with a mallet a little at at time on each side without damaging either the engine or bell housing. Welcome to the club.