Help!!! at the braking point with my brakes all new brakes and cant get blead out!!!

[BabyBronco89]

so i have a 1986 b2 500$
picked her up last friday
she was sitting for 10 years

i got the mouse nest outta the intake, unstuck the throttle body, and she fired right up, after i put a new ignition lock and tumbler in.

i backed her outta the drive and went to hit the brakes and they went straight to the floor, yeah i know 10 years sitting will rot out brake lines and components especially in michigan.

so i proceeded to replace every single brake component, all new lines, flex hoses, calipers, wheel cylinders, pads and shoes, all the way around!!!!
have about 150$ into this and a few man hours...

went to bleed the brakes and i couldnt get any sort of peddle after going around 4 plus times, and i wasnt getting any air out, i figured the master cylinder must be shot too from sitting 10 years,

so i went and got a reman 28$, and same thing i had a little brakes but not much..
so i read up a bit online and heard alot of not so great things about reman master cylinders.

so i returned it and got a brand new one. 50$

ive been bleeding and vacumn pumping all day with no luck.....

ive been bleeding brakes since i was old enough to reach the peddle for my dad, and ive never had so many problems

heres my bleeding senarios

1st bench blead the master cylinder using the bench bleeding hoses that come with the kit, pumped her till there was no air coming out of the mastercylinder outlets
then put the cap on so no fluid would leak out,or any air get sucked in, then attached my front and rear lines i opened all the bleeders and let fluid run freely then tigtened them and procceded to pressure bleed with a peddle pusher. till all aparent air was out.
i bleed in the right sequence rr, lr, rf, lf.
several times, over and over again

and my peddle is still mush
if i pump about 5 times i get a lil pressure to the pads but i lose it very quickly....

whats the secret??

i also have a electronic vacumn pump that exceeds the hand held ones and tried using that, doing a one man bleed with no luck....


i have 5 hrs into trying to bleed this thing today and really want to get her bleed so i can go get her registered and tear some shiit up.

if i cant get her fixed tom im going to have to take her to a shop, which pisses me off im this far, i have a 28yo truck with 3 day old brakes and they wont work..

the only thing i havent replaced is the booster, but i should be able to get a nice firm pedle even if thats bad correct??,

i just want brakes before i brake!!!

 

[Shran]

There is something you are missing and I would bet that it is a fitting somewhere that is crossthreaded and/or not flared properly and it's sucking air back in. The other possibility is that since you have replaced literally everything, you haven't gotten all the air out of the lines. Check all the high spots in the lines, one thing you can do is tap on them while you bleed so that any air bubbles that are stuck to the inside of the lines get free and pushed out.

There may be a valve attached to the frame, under the master cylinder, that your brake lines run into - check that too.

Can't be the vacuum booster, even if it was bad you'd still have brakes, just no power assist.

The only things I can think of if the above doesn't work is that your master cylinder is either leaking internally or leaking into the booster itself. Or you're doing something wrong, which doesn't seem to be the case.

 

[BabyBronco89]

im thinking i have a bad flare somewhere too, i visually inspected all the fittings today, and i didnt see any leaks, so im thinking tom i will start off by checking all the fittings to see if there all tight, and torque them down real good, then try to bleed again, if still no luck i will undo all the fittings and check for flares that arent sealing up good, re seal again,
and if still no luck i will get more fittings and try to hook up to a air compressor and see if i can hold air pressure or if i cant, i will spray soapy water at all connections. does anyone know a psi that i shouldnt exceed, about how much hydralic pressure should a good master cylinder be able to produce?? i dont want to blow out the rubber seals on my brand new brake components.

thanks again trs love you guys, no homo

 

[8879ford]

Have a mechanic repair it. Simple, effective and less headaches for you. Spend the time saved with your wife or significant other.

 

[BabyBronco89]

well i get to spend the money i don't spend at the shop on her.
that's why i bought a 86 no abs or other crap that needs skill to worry about, i can work on these old trucks, but get me in anything 2000 and newer and ill gladly hand it over to the local shop.

 

[cvar]

My instinct would be to isolate the lines, to proof each one separately.

A plug screwed into each of the 2 MC ports will disconnect those 2 hard lines from the MC. That will tell you whether the spongy pedal is from the MC itself, or not.

Then attach ONLY the front line to MC (keep cap on rear line), but next plug off the hard-lines at the front hose splitter block. You may need a female cap to plug these fittings without causing damage to your flares. If no spongy pedal, then reattach each proven line to its caliper, to bleed & test it by itself.

Then, do the same to plug off the RABS, and lastly the rear wheels. Yeah, slow & steady, but saves $$$.

 

[BabyBronco89]

thanks cvar that makes a lot of sense, i will go get some plug fittings and isolate the front and the back, if i can get a god bleed on one or the other i should be able to tell where my leaking culprit is.

 

[PetesPonies]

Front and rear lines are separated in the MC already. Bleeding the back or front has nothing to do with the other. There is no reason to move from one wheel, if you are not getting the right results. YOu say you went around 4 times . . why? Bleed the right rear. Stay there. Are you getting a squirt of brake fluid that would shoot several feet? Inside the MC the primary piston will push the secondary piston. Sure th pedal will travel farther, but it will mechanically do it. That's all you need to bleed the rear. Once you get a strong squirt, go to the drivers side rear. Do the same. If you can't get a strong squirt, there is an issue. Air getting in somewhere or a bad MC. Keep it isolated by staying in the rear. No reason to go elsewhere until you get the desired result.

 

[BabyBronco89]

So I ended up getting a HA bleed on the brakes.. and took it over to my buddy's shop to take a quick glance and he noticed the bleeder screw on the front passenger caliper was too low on the casting. Because auto zone gave me two drivers side fronts instead of a R and L ..I wondered If there was something up as the casting was a lot different then the original but it clipped in and the pads fit great.

So I wasn't able to get the air out of the top of the pass get cylinder untill I got the proper caliper, now the bad boys lock right up.

Lesson learned always double check the part and even the part guys

 

[Surrey]

Lesson learned always double check the part and even the part guys

Never trust the guy at the parts counter, unless you know him personally.

Most of these guys make barely more than minimum wage, and spends all day looking at numbers on a screen then matching them with numbers on a box - they dont even see the parts half the time.

 

[PetesPonies]

This is common problem with lots of vehicles. It's quite common for people to put both calipers on the wrong side. This allows air to be trapped in the caliper.