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James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Location
Roanoke VA
Vehicle Year
1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
I'm not sure, for my issue (reconstructing door jamb sticker), even if I find a part# on them, and id them, if it helps with the gross weights, since there is unsprung weight included in the total, surely. So spring capacity probably influences gross weights but not the whole story.
 


James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2021
Messages
1,891
Reaction score
973
Points
113
Location
Roanoke VA
Vehicle Year
1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
1986-2003 Ford Ranger Rear Leaf Spring - 3 Leaves, 1069lbs (sdtrucksprings.com)

F37Z5560A
>> F37A5560BB match ?

Those should be the part numbers; in my shop manual one of my rear spring possibilities is F37A-5560-EC so only the last two letters are different I don't know if that means it's a different part or same part different year or what.
If those who know more tell me, that's the same part, then that would tell me my rer spring code (for my door label), which would be E.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
I'm not sure, for my issue (reconstructing door jamb sticker), even if I find a part# on them, and id them, if it helps with the gross weights, since there is unsprung weight included in the total, surely. So spring capacity probably influences gross weights but not the whole story.
Yea they come in different arch heights too or whatever as well as number and length of leaves. Lots of variables. Then you can throw in air bags or add a leaf or helper springs...
I was gonna swap in heavier ones, until I realized it would cost me the nice ride, and the truck only does light hauling anyways. Its mostly a play toy beloved lil machine.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
Supporting Member
Joined
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Messages
1,891
Reaction score
973
Points
113
Location
Roanoke VA
Vehicle Year
1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
I can't see going to a heavier spring unless it was for a specific purpose like you are in the masonry business and hauling lots of block/rocks, something like that. Otherwise it'd sacrifice ride quality for nothing.

The way I see it, my curb weight is 2 people, a full tank of gas, and the cargo box in the bed with whatever I'm normally carrying in that. If I were carrying hitches and a winch that'd add. So if I got weighed, I'd want it configured like that, then I'd know how much more weight can I add and still be [safely] under gross. I know that's not technically its curb weight but practically speaking it's what I'd want to know. It's the in-use curb weight.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
I can't see going to a heavier spring unless it was for a specific purpose like you are in the masonry business and hauling lots of block/rocks, something like that. Otherwise it'd sacrifice ride quality for nothing.

The way I see it, my curb weight is 2 people, a full tank of gas, and the cargo box in the bed with whatever I'm normally carrying in that. If I were carrying hitches and a winch that'd add. So if I got weighed, I'd want it configured like that, then I'd know how much more weight can I add and still be [safely] under gross. I know that's not technically its curb weight but practically speaking it's what I'd want to know. It's the in-use curb weight.
Kinda like my situation, in which case the old stock 1100 lb springs are fantastic, she needs all kinds of work but sure takes bumps nice.

I say if anything maybe consider a more off road oriented spring arch or maybe just an add a leaf for more lift and heavy load support. Its kind of best of both worlds, being pretty much flat, they only kick in when you bottom out and need a little extra support...and the only drawback is more ride height, which is a free lift kit if you ask me.

Oh and if you are gonna get into all this I would check up on the bushing and shackles etc. Might wanna go polyurethane bushings (stiffer and stronger, but harsher ride and squeak)

There are some good threads ere on TRS regarding shackle magic....flipping, reversing, extending, inverting etc...The back end of the Ranger is the easy part.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
Supporting Member
Joined
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Messages
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Points
113
Location
Roanoke VA
Vehicle Year
1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
But the thing is, the springs set on top the axle, so no matter what you do for springs the differential/shock mounts don't get higher, and that's the low point that's most likely to get hung up. So I'm not sure I see the point of the lift in and of itself. It would increase the angle of attack/departure slightly to the better. It wouldn't change the ramp angle though. It would decrease stability.
Get to know your 4x4! (euro4x4parts.com)

I see all kind of super expensive trucks (like a Super Duty FX4) but when you look under them it doesn't look to me like they have any more clearance to the differential than my truck.
The only way you get more clearance is bigger tires, and there's a limit what you can do there without hacking up / replacing fenders and all the other issues like rubbing in turns, and if you go really big you'd probably want a different final drive ratio, ideally, if it's possible but I realize that's a bunch of work.

For me it seems like one major issue is even if I'm not in a could-high-center situation, so far the most common thing that happens with me is crossing streams; the differential(s) is likely to get in the water, if not from the water depth then from the fact flowing water piles up against anything it hits. So probably the first thing I should do is run tubes up from the differential vents, one guy posted how he did this between the cab and bed with a little manifold, I think it was, to keep water out of the tube ends (I think). I got to get in my manual and find how to check fluid levels on diff's and xfr case which I obviously should have done already. When I eventually get around to putting on 31" (oem size) tires that will gain me about 1.5" height (an inch, plus, the 235's are pretty worn so some height loss there too) which doesn't sound like a lot be every inch counts.

There's a limit to how much water you can drive through, of course, but what happened to me was I did like four or five crossings then one (the one I stopped at last time) I thought the water would be shallower but it was deeper so I still didn't get across because the getting across wouldn't be an issue but at the far side it looked like 10" deep moving water then it climbs up out of the creek (like they almost always do) and there's an upthrust of bedrock there which probably I can navigate but I just thought I'd rather do it with not so much water until I really know wtf I'm doing. Point of that is, I'm going to be in water, and one I came out of then got that "chink" sound metal makes when it's quickly cooled so I know something was getting wet under there. Anyway, navigating that stuff is a matter of what the truck can do and I'm not really sure what that is in its current form, but I think once I get the tires on that will help some. All I know is, sure there are cross-members and skid plates, but there's a whole bunch of stuff under there that you really don't want dragging over a rock point.

Here's a really sharp truck and you can see it has appreciably more clearance under it - not unlimited (differential). Not sure what the tires are but for sure not oem. So if I had that truck then I would have gone right through that crossing no problem. Now if I could set my truck up like that I'd be happy.
I think I'm looking at some money in the front suspension and custom body panels on there. I'm thinking of getting those tires they say they're not horrible noisy. I'm guessing those are probably 33" tires on 15" rims.
Custom-Ford-Ranger-Repulsor-MT.jpg
 
Last edited:
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Glad you brought up the diff and water, James. I had my fluids changed recently and they said front diff was milky from water. I only know of one deeper water crossing in the last few years, but I was surprised. I'll have to find out where my vent is and see if I can extend that up.
 

Josh B

Well-Known Member
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TRS 20th Anniversary
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3,956
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Oklahoma
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1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Most of what I've seen says to change differential fluid every day when working in water
 
Joined
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I just had no idea I'd been in water that deep. I've went through water many times and never had it infiltrate before. They said no damage apparent, no metal came out. And no obvious ingress point, assuming it's the vent. I will definitely be more cognizant of it going forward. Just a little surprising.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2021
Messages
1,891
Reaction score
973
Points
113
Location
Roanoke VA
Vehicle Year
1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
I'm quoting ericphoto here he posted this in another thread:

One thing to do ahead of time, if you're going to be hitting deep water, is to extend the breather vent hoses to a higher location. Your transfer case and both axles have vent tubes with a little fitting on the end to keep dirt out but allow air to enter or exit. Get longer pieces of hose and replace those. Get the vented end up as high as you can. If these vents are in good condition, they give the axles an easy place to breathe and minimize the chance of ingesting water when they need to draw air in due to cooling and contracting components. Doesn't help for front wheel bearings, though. You just have to have good seals there.

I recently built a little manifold and installed it on the front of the truck bed between the bed and cab. I ran all 3 hoses to that manifold.

20220809_203120.jpg

1676301306563.png

In my recent creek dunking, those vents were still at least 24" above the water level.
1676301338397.png

end quote from ericphoto
 

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