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Headlight Beam Pattern


JW20

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I just got done replacing the headlight housings on my 97. The old ones were original and badly oxidized both inside and out, so there really wasn't any saving them. I replaced them with Dorman units because I could not find OEM headlights anywhere. During the install, I took great care to set the adjusters on both to within a thou of where they were on the old housings, and everything is seated correctly.

It's been so long since the truck had decent headlights that I can't remember what they were like when I bought the truck. When I got in it and drove it around the block, I was shocked by how bad the beam pattern is, and how the driver's side seems completely misaligned. Maybe it's just because I'm used to newer vehicles with better reflectors, but it just seems awful. It's worlds better than it was, but there's no discernable cutoff and there's light scattered everywhere. Were they always this bad and I just never knew any better? Is the driver's side supposed to be noticeably lower than the passenger side?
 


ekrampitzjr

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The driver's side should not be a lot lower. Align it using the horizontal aim stud. I still use the old "find a wall + level parking lot, and aim them against that wall" method. It works.

Also make absolutely sure the bulbs are seated in their sockets in the back of the housings with the screw ring that holds them in place properly tightened. The Dorman housings might have had the bulbs "installed", but that doesn't mean they were seated. You'd be surprised how many people have no clue about how to install the bulbs.

I've seen a lot of complaints on Dorman products, not just headlamp units. Frankly, you might be just as well off getting no-name assemblies off eBay, which is where I got the ones for my 2011. I got lucky (I guess) and their output is the same as the assemblies I replaced. Look, they're all made in China or thereabouts today.

Even if the Motorcraft originals are still available after 25 years, I'd hate to think how much $$$ Ford wants for those.
 

Chapap

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2WD
Total Drop
1.5” till I get these springs replaced
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I just got done replacing the headlight housings on my 97. The old ones were original and badly oxidized both inside and out, so there really wasn't any saving them. I replaced them with Dorman units because I could not find OEM headlights anywhere. During the install, I took great care to set the adjusters on both to within a thou of where they were on the old housings, and everything is seated correctly.

It's been so long since the truck had decent headlights that I can't remember what they were like when I bought the truck. When I got in it and drove it around the block, I was shocked by how bad the beam pattern is, and how the driver's side seems completely misaligned. Maybe it's just because I'm used to newer vehicles with better reflectors, but it just seems awful. It's worlds better than it was, but there's no discernable cutoff and there's light scattered everywhere. Were they always this bad and I just never knew any better? Is the driver's side supposed to be noticeably lower than the passenger side?
I often wonder that when I go down roads with no street lights. I always give the switch an extra tug to make sure they're on. I think it's just getting used to being able to see with the newer stuff as opposed to having a little extra light out front... especially with aftermarket.
I always aim them sitting on a flat road, test drive, and repeat till I'm happy with it. I don't like the "measuring a wall" method.
 

JW20

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The driver's side should not be a lot lower. Align it using the horizontal aim stud. I still use the old "find a wall + level parking lot, and aim them against that wall" method. It works.

Also make absolutely sure the bulbs are seated in their sockets in the back of the housings with the screw ring that holds them in place properly tightened. The Dorman housings might have had the bulbs "installed", but that doesn't mean they were seated. You'd be surprised how many people have no clue about how to install the bulbs.

I've seen a lot of complaints on Dorman products, not just headlamp units. Frankly, you might be just as well off getting no-name assemblies off eBay, which is where I got the ones for my 2011. I got lucky (I guess) and their output is the same as the assemblies I replaced. Look, they're all made in China or thereabouts today.

Even if the Motorcraft originals are still available after 25 years, I'd hate to think how much $$$ Ford wants for those.
Thanks, yeah I didn't use the bulbs that came with the housings, and I used the factory retention rings because they fit better.

When you say align it using the horizontal aim stud, which one are you referring to? The one on the side by itself and closest to the center line of the truck? The other one is difficult to get to and the one on the bottom is impossible to get to without removing the light.
 

ekrampitzjr

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Location
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Vehicle Year
2011
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Thanks, yeah I didn't use the bulbs that came with the housings, and I used the factory retention rings because they fit better.

When you say align it using the horizontal aim stud, which one are you referring to? The one on the side by itself and closest to the center line of the truck? The other one is difficult to get to and the one on the bottom is impossible to get to without removing the light.
If it's the same setup as mine (probably is), the horizontal aim stud is the one at the bottom closest to the center line of the truck. I had to remove my assemblies to tweak those too. Make sure the assemblies are seated properly on the bulkhead after reinstalling to make sure of your aim.
 

Chapap

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U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
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Messages
1,056
Reaction score
672
Points
113
Location
NW Florida
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
1.5” till I get these springs replaced
Tire Size
225-70-R14

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